Ceramic 9H Installed
#1
The following 2 users liked this post by klrgoten:
blgN8 (11-06-2022),
Burt Gummer (12-13-2016)
#3
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#7
Looks great!
My F-type has the same color as Yours and I gave it the same treatment one and a half year ago, but with a different but rather similar product (Gtechniq Crystal Serum). Very happy with the result, and the protective coating (including the shine) seems just as good now as it did when it was new.
The only negative is that XPEL (and similar) protective film will not stick to these kinds of treated surfaces - at least that is what I have been told by several supliers of these protective films. So if you want to have XPEL as well for the most exposed areas, you better put that on first.
My F-type has the same color as Yours and I gave it the same treatment one and a half year ago, but with a different but rather similar product (Gtechniq Crystal Serum). Very happy with the result, and the protective coating (including the shine) seems just as good now as it did when it was new.
The only negative is that XPEL (and similar) protective film will not stick to these kinds of treated surfaces - at least that is what I have been told by several supliers of these protective films. So if you want to have XPEL as well for the most exposed areas, you better put that on first.
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#9
Looks great!
My F-type has the same color as Yours and I gave it the same treatment one and a half year ago, but with a different but rather similar product (Gtechniq Crystal Serum). Very happy with the result, and the protective coating (including the shine) seems just as good now as it did when it was new.
The only negative is that XPEL (and similar) protective film will not stick to these kinds of treated surfaces - at least that is what I have been told by several supliers of these protective films. So if you want to have XPEL as well for the most exposed areas, you better put that on first.
My F-type has the same color as Yours and I gave it the same treatment one and a half year ago, but with a different but rather similar product (Gtechniq Crystal Serum). Very happy with the result, and the protective coating (including the shine) seems just as good now as it did when it was new.
The only negative is that XPEL (and similar) protective film will not stick to these kinds of treated surfaces - at least that is what I have been told by several supliers of these protective films. So if you want to have XPEL as well for the most exposed areas, you better put that on first.
There has been a bit of controversy regarding this matter. My detailer who in an earlier life worked with xPel to develop the wrap, firmly believes in using a protective coating before applying the film. In my case he used cQuartz. He has since moved on to what he considers to be superior: CeramicPro.
The key to successful adhesion of the xPel to a coated surface is to carefully and patiently apply the right amount of heat and pressure to each square inch of the film. Not coating the surface before applying the film will allow the adhesive chemicals to permeate into the paint.
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#11
Do not expect any of the coatings to protect against stone chips. Their primary purpose is to protect against swirls, light scratching and environmental contaminants (e.g.acid rain) and to maintain an easily cleaned high gloss. The sections of body where you expect stone chips (front clip, rocker panels, etc.) need to be covered with film.
The following users liked this post:
Burt Gummer (12-17-2016)
#12
Do not expect any of the coatings to protect against stone chips. Their primary purpose is to protect against swirls, light scratching and environmental contaminants (e.g.acid rain) and to maintain an easily cleaned high gloss. The sections of body where you expect stone chips (front clip, rocker panels, etc.) need to be covered with film.
#13
No, I painted it myself using a gloss black enamel & clear enamel to seal the paint... I posted about it in a debadge thread going on somewhere on the forum. I wanted to make sure I had that done so it can get coated as well.
#14
I don't mind chatting about this off a public thread... I don't want to publish any sort of negotiated deal that we agreed upon in a public manner.
#15
Oh no problem at all I understand. IM works.
For others that are considering the black leaper-only emblem/letter removals, there is a seller on Ebay that comes and goes that sells the black leaper for $10 shipped. Same exact size/shape with mounting adhesive.
IMO - debadge w/ black trim looks great; if chrome I'd probably leave them vs Plasti-dip etc. Just washing/waxing without all that clutter in the way worth it.
For others that are considering the black leaper-only emblem/letter removals, there is a seller on Ebay that comes and goes that sells the black leaper for $10 shipped. Same exact size/shape with mounting adhesive.
IMO - debadge w/ black trim looks great; if chrome I'd probably leave them vs Plasti-dip etc. Just washing/waxing without all that clutter in the way worth it.
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There is a local Portland detailer that will do Opti-Coat including paint correction for $1400. From what I've read, Opti-Coat is 90% as good as 9H and will last 2+ years if car is kept indoors, much longer if always garaged.
Opti-Coat can also be purchased for DYI application on Ebay, Amazon, etc.
Opti-Coat can also be purchased for DYI application on Ebay, Amazon, etc.
Last edited by Burt Gummer; 12-17-2016 at 09:42 PM. Reason: meant INDOORS
#20
There is a local Portland detailer that will do Opti-Coat including paint correction for $1400. From what I've read, Opti-Coat is 90% as good as 9H and will last 2+ years if car is kept outdoors, much longer if always garaged.
Opti-Coat can also be purchased for DYI application on Ebay, Amazon, etc.
Opti-Coat can also be purchased for DYI application on Ebay, Amazon, etc.
The following users liked this post:
Burt Gummer (12-18-2016)