Hello F-Type folks,

I'm an '09 XK owner and am considering adding an F-Type. My knowledge is somewhat limited when it comes to specific areas to watch for problems, issues or concerns, and what to avoid. I'm thinking it will be a late teens MY, and I only want the V6 version in a convertible (no coupes), RWD, and hopefully documented service records (wishful thinking?). Not sure if the standard F-Type or S model is better suited to my wants. Since it will be an addition to the "stable" it will only be used/driven occasionally - probably once every couple of weeks. No track use as I get my track jollies with the 996 race car. There seem to be lots on the market, and I am willing to travel for the right car, but I need some education on what to look for and what to ask.

Any advice, insight or recommendations you guys (and gals) can provide would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

 

They stopped making the S around 2017 and the R-Dynamic more or less replaced it. There are more than a few out there with low miles, some too low in my opinion. I don't trust a ten year old car with less than 1,000 miles.

I'd honesly say find pick out a color combination you like and seek it out. I performed a nationwide search when I bought my convertible and was all ready to fly to either Texas or Arizona when one popped up for sale in my back yard.

 

Thanks. That would explain why I haven't seen any later model S's. My first F-Type lesson.

 

I will simply add that when I was helping a friend find his perfect F-Type, which we did (a coupe) I found that there definitely was a preponderance of convertibles to coupes. So I suspect, using some of the advice you will receive here, your search will find success.

Good luck.

 

Any of them are fine w/no big issues/problems. Jaguar changed the naming conventions two or three times so it's hard to keep track with whats-what: base, S, Dynamic, R, SVR, P380, the 400 Sport, P450, P575, etc.

• 2014 & 2015 will have sticky buttons on the interior and no Apple Car play. Buttons are easy enough to clean or replace.
• Early models (2014-2018) have plastic coolant pipes under the supercharger that need to be replaced. 2019 and newer models have pastic coolant pipes under the super charger but the design was imiproved & less likely to have a problem.
• The 2014 & 2015 models are all RWD. AWD F-types started in 2016.
• Do you want a manual transmission? If so that's all you need to search for as only the V6 models offered the manual. I think the manual was only offered between 2016 - 2019. I could be wrong.
• All the V6's have the same engine and supercharger so you can easily bump the hp on the base model. Other than hp, the differences between the base, S, dymanic,R-dynamic, etc. are the suspension,electronic differential, and brakes. The differences between the suspension & brakes are pretty nominal especially if you're just doing spirited weekend driving. The big difference and most difficult to change/upgrade is the differential. There's "base" and "sport" seats too but they are both good options.
• Its worth looking at the 2018 F-type 400 Sport (it's a V6) - pretty cool but difficult to find.

 

Thanks. I neglected to mention I want only an automatic, not a manual. I've dealt with sticky button issues on the Ferrari......so I'm not new to that malady, not that I want to deal with it again. Apple Car Play is not a requirement.
Cheers.

 

Not a bad summary but one error there - no e-diff (electronic differential) in the V6 F-Type.
Only the V8 got the e-diff while the V6S, Dynamic, P380 etc got a mechanical LSD (the base model got an open diff).
From my reading here that LSD makes a yuge difference when you are giving it 9/10s around the twisties.

 

Look for rust on the support beams under the car, it is most prevalent on the early ones.
The waffle type hood vent on the v6's leak right on top of the injectors/ coils and valve covers, leading to injectors getting corroded to the heads and shorting out, valve cover bolts rusting away.
Check front lower part of engine for oil leaks, crank seals, High fuel pump covers and VVC covers are known leak areas.
Also, look at headliner for sagging, European glues are known to get tacky went it is hot out and lead to headliners coming apart.

 

The hood vents leaking directly onto the injectors, coils etc. is only an issue on the the early RWD models. AWD models have the vents farther apart on the hood. Also later models have shields on the top of the engine under the vents to divert the water.

 

Coming out of an XK with that lovely ride, I would lean toward a car with the adaptive suspension. That was optional in the base.

Cars without it have a harder ride, although that can be improved by lighter wheels and different tyres. I tend to think the very hard ride is why there are so many low km base models around, I test drove one when they first came out and I breathed a sigh of relief getting back into my XKR later, though the seat option is also a factor.

 

Verify that the center vent raises and lowers quietly, with no grinding.

If there appear to be LED light strips under the door handles and the bottomside of the console grab handle, make sure they light up (has to be a fresh start, in the dark, like in a garage) If they don't, a tech has to drill down in the software to enable them.

Check that the spoiler rises at 70 mph (60 for convertibles?) and then lowers itself at 50.

When stationary, if you have a switch on the console to manually raise/lower the spoiler, make sure that works.

Check the condition of the headlight lenses. There's a whole thread on the 'microcracking'. A safety hazard to be sure as the microcracking refracts the HL reducing effectiveness of the HL as well as sometimes blinding oncoming vehicles. The microcracking cannot be polished out, the headlight assembly has to be replaced. The Vision Pack Headlights that swivel/turn with the car's direction are about $4000 USD new. Used are available, but you may not know if they have the microcracking.

Check the CarFax for the car, although there are some reports here that all 'events' haven't been recorded, at least it's a start to check the car's history and service records.

Check all the weatherstripping. There are reports here of the rubber being torn off the clips that hold it to the car.

Make sure the fob(s) work to lock and unlock the car.

Here's a link to the Jaguar Iguide (owner info)

https://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/

 

When you physically inspect a car, make sure the key fob has a physical key inside it (the metal part of the fob slides off.) The physical key is needed if the fob or car battery is dead.

 

Here's a link to open the fob, not only to check for the inside parts, but also to replace battery.

 

Absolutley this. Why I picked mine up, the secondary key fob worked, but the physical key inside did not. I'm glad I caught that. I've only ever used the physical key one time, but it sure came in handy then.

 

Why I said the V6's with Waffle vents.

 

Thank you!

 

Thanks. Do you know which MY the hood vent shields were introduced??

 

Good tip. Thank you. I would have never thought about something like that.

 

More good info. Thanks.

 

Not sure what year they were introduced. My 2018 has them. There is a thread on here, or at least some posts about it. It has been previously discussed.