F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

Coolant Hose Replacement Supercharger Removal

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Old Nov 28, 2020 | 09:19 PM
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Default Coolant Hose Replacement Supercharger Removal

2015 V6s AWD

I have had the problem that many have had- "low coolant" warning and can see a puddle of orange coolant sitting on top of the block under the supercharger. All the visible coolant pipes seem ok so I conclude that it's the troublesome y connector that runs off below the supercharger.

So I am going to try and DIY this job and would love anyone's input. I know a few people have done this or removed their SC for other reasons (coupler replacement etc). I have read a lot of threads.

My first question is this;

In the photo below, what is the steel pipe at the front of the supercharger and do I need to remove it? I have seen in his thread on fitting a polished SC cover UNHINGD seemed to keep it in place? perhaps by bending it a little to access the torx screws underneath? it goes down to a screwed coupling on each side.

I'm sure there will be other questions- I will write up the process properly when I'm done


Many thanks in advance!


pogggor



 
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Old Nov 28, 2020 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by adent
2015 V6s AWD

I have had the problem that many have had- "low coolant" warning and can see a puddle of orange coolant sitting on top of the block under the supercharger. All the visible coolant pipes seem ok so I conclude that it's the troublesome y connector that runs off below the supercharger.

So I am going to try and DIY this job and would love anyone's input. I know a few people have done this or removed their SC for other reasons (coupler replacement etc). I have read a lot of threads.

My first question is this;

In the photo below, what is the steel pipe at the front of the supercharger and do I need to remove it? I have seen in his thread on fitting a polished SC cover UNHINGD seemed to keep it in place? perhaps by bending it a little to access the torx screws underneath? it goes down to a screwed coupling on each side.

I'm sure there will be other questions- I will write up the process properly when I'm done


Many thanks in advance!


pogggor


I am on a small device, but your arrow appears to be pointing to the high pressure fuel line. Be very careful with that. When I get back to my computer I think I have the info on SC removal and will post here for you. You can check out my methanol injection thread also, as I removed the lid to drill nozzles.

DC

 

Last edited by Therock88; Nov 28, 2020 at 09:44 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2020 | 09:48 PM
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Thanks Rock- I really appreciate it. I have seen that document and I have the huge 500mb manual but I find the "instructions" fairly rudimentary! Still quite useful.
Thanks!


poggor
 
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Old Nov 28, 2020 | 11:58 PM
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Yes, high pressure fuel line. I pulled the pump fuse and ran the car out of fuel to release pressure on the line, possible 1000+ .psi , prior to removal . If I remember, there are line nuts to remove the line from each fuel rail. I had to remove the line, you may not have to!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 12:11 AM
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here is what my engine bay looked like when we removed the supercharger for this job



i didnt do any fuse pulling or anything like that, when the car was assembled and turned it on it took like 5 seconds to turn on, had to prime the lines with fuel i guess.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 01:42 AM
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Thanks madscott and holy ftype
I have made a little progress. Current situation:



So far I have discovered that the charge air cooler can indeed be removed without removing the high pressure fuel line- the fuel line can be eased forward just enough to allow the bolts to be removed and the cooler manoevered out.

I have also discovered that the thin plastic coolant lines on the top of the engine are very brittle (i believe @ozxfr had these cracked). I cracked one with very little forced during removal and then noticed that it was also cracked in the insulating sheath. I'm pretty sure these were not the source of my leak though as there was no leaking from these lines when the engine was running and also it wouldn't account for the large amount of coolant pooling on the engine block. They will need to be replaced though.






I am currently struggling with a few connectors- if anyone has any handy hints? the two main radiator hose clamps and another connector going into the supercharger inlet:






Thanks!!

 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 07:27 AM
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Here is the detailed info for you on the SC removal for a V6. More detailed shop manual than the general stuff. It also includes additional items and info, so you can use what you need. I also included 2 other document links for you with general and additional information that may help. Some will be duplicate.

Good luck.
DC

LINK HERE
Additional info 1
Additional Info 2
 

Last edited by Therock88; Nov 29, 2020 at 07:30 AM.
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 09:21 AM
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Watching this thread with interest, every time I read one if these posts I think I hope this doesn't happen to me and if it ever does there's no way I am replacing with the same parts materials. At the risk of repeating myself the materials used for these parts aren't suitable for the environment they are located in, if the replacement are the same materials then they'll likely have similar failure mode.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 09:37 AM
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Also on the hose clamps, you show here, I use one of these tools. Makes it very easy to hold them open while you pull them apart. The tool "ratchets" and hols its position until you unlock it. The cable extension makes it easy to fit in places.

DC

 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by adent
Thanks madscott and holy ftype
I have made a little progress. Current situation:



So far I have discovered that the charge air cooler can indeed be removed without removing the high pressure fuel line- the fuel line can be eased forward just enough to allow the bolts to be removed and the cooler manoevered out.

I have also discovered that the thin plastic coolant lines on the top of the engine are very brittle (i believe @ozxfr had these cracked). I cracked one with very little forced during removal and then noticed that it was also cracked in the insulating sheath. I'm pretty sure these were not the source of my leak though as there was no leaking from these lines when the engine was running and also it wouldn't account for the large amount of coolant pooling on the engine block. They will need to be replaced though.






I am currently struggling with a few connectors- if anyone has any handy hints? the two main radiator hose clamps and another connector going into the supercharger inlet:






Thanks!!
Yep, those lines on my car were like uncooked spaghetti with very little pressure required to snap them into little bits.
Those cracks before they broke completely could well have been the main source of your leak(s), just a tiny hairline crack can spew heaps of coolant due to the pressure.
Thing is, because they are right up high in the coolant system they stop leaking once the level in the expansion tank drops down to about 1.5 litres under full leaving about 3" in the bottom of the expansion tank, which explains why you get the "low coolant" warning but no catastrophic overheating. I twice drove my car a few kms in that state watching the temp gauge like a hawk but it never budged off the normal reading.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 08:35 PM
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Thanks to everyone who replied- thanks therock of those files.
OzXFR- yes it's possible they are the cause. i'm in pretty deep now so I guess we shall see what lies underneath the charger and change the pipes over pre-emptively if they aren't cracked.
probably do the plugs too given i'm at 66000km

like you I had the warning but the engine didn't appear to be over heating.


adent
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 08:37 PM
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also OzXFR- what was your source for the replacement pipes in australia?


cheers


 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by adent
also OzXFR- what was your source for the replacement pipes in australia?


cheers
Nobody but nobody in Australia sells OEM Jag parts other than JLR dealerships who all charge you an absolute fortune for the privilege, I have never ever bought a part from a JLR dealership and never will.
Instead I get my parts from all over the world but usually the US or the UK.
I have replaced no coolant pipes or tubes other than that particular expansion tank tube and I got it from Britcar in the UK, see here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...5/#post2322706
 

Last edited by OzXFR; Nov 29, 2020 at 08:58 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 11:03 PM
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Thanks again for your replies- thanks for the info @OzXFR - i'll check out britcar.

Current status: all structures on the front and back of the supercharger removed:




Last two things before I can try and unbolt and lever this thing out:

1. Belt- does anyone have any tips on how to get the belt off?
2. Throttle body- does anyone know if this actually has to be removed? or can I take the supercharger out with the throttle body still attached? Hard to see if there are other things attached to the underside of the throttle body.




 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 08:03 PM
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wondered if anyone knows the part number for this pipe (V6 version)



 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by adent
wondered if anyone knows the part number for this pipe (V6 version)


Hard to tell...But check here and see if you think it may be one of these? Maybe #2 or #3? Good luck.

HERE

DC
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 10:01 PM
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Thanks for that Rock! great website I'll poke around.
any thoughts on whether the throttle body needs to be removed or will it lift out connected to the supercharger?



 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 10:22 PM
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I've removed it each time I've removed the supercharger. I think the manual tells you to do that so I just followed the instructions. Also the throttle body is expensive and I didn't want to risk damaging it.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 10:26 PM
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Thanks tx Fireblade!

any tips on getting the supercharger belt off? the access to the tensioner is so tight!
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by adent
Thanks tx Fireblade!

any tips on getting the supercharger belt off? the access to the tensioner is so tight!
To get the belt off, you need to get the tensioner from under the car. See pics.

DC




 
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