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My 2016 R was struck by a significant coolant leak last night. Got a low coolant warning and was able to add coolant and nurse the car home, but now need to decide on next steps. The upper coolant pipe appears to be fine. I can see coolant in the valley under the supercharger inlet (and all over the ground) so I am suspicious the lower coolant pipe is the culprit. I am looking at buying the full coolant system upgrade kit from Euro AMP, but have a couple of questions:
Does my diagnosis seem reasonable? I can't get a good look at the lower pipe to confirm an issue.
Is the aluminum coolant pipe install a reasonable DIY job? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have tools (and willing to buy as needed), but don't want to get in over my head. I haven't had my F Type very long, but have done VAP lower pulley install, changed air filters, etc. I think the real question surrounds removing and reinstalling the supercharger.
Thanks to a few good threads on the aluminum cooling pipes I think I have a pretty good idea of what is involved, but it seems there are more posts about how a shop did the job than about owners DIY'ing this particular task. Input/Advice is appreciated.
I'm getting ready to do the same job, as a preventative measure. Like you, I'm a capable mechanic, and pulling the supercharger seems like a task with a fairly modest level of difficulty. I'm not worried that it will be too much. I expect it to be a weekend task, as long as I am properly prepared.
Just an FYI, we can get wrapped around the axle about coolant types. It is good to know that regular old Prestone "all vehicle" 10 year concentrate, cor-guard, purchased at WalMart is about as good a coolant as is possible. It is silicate free (preserves water pumps) , and OAT (organic acid technology) much like modern versions of DexCool and nearly all other modern coolants for gasoline engines (such as Ford Orange/yellow, Mopar and on and on). Today's Prestone 10yr all vehicle coolant is NOT the old school green (even though the color is similar) and does not have any of the negative characteristics of old school green coolant which is IAT, Inorganic acid technology.
Replacing your plastic cooling system parts with aluminum is a good move. ALL of today's coolants are fantastic, but they are hard on plastic.
I have a low mileage 2016 Type R AWD and I am going to have the coolant pipes and the water pump replaced as a preventative measure in near future.
I have purchased the aluminum coolant pipes from Euro Amp as well as the small pipe attached to the back of the water pump.
I am working on finding a qualified indy mechanic to do this work as opposed to the dealer.
Not interested in taking on this project myself mainly for piece of mind and later on for resale value having records in hand.
My 2016 R was struck by a significant coolant leak last night. Got a low coolant warning and was able to add coolant and nurse the car home, but now need to decide on next steps. The upper coolant pipe appears to be fine. I can see coolant in the valley under the supercharger inlet (and all over the ground) so I am suspicious the lower coolant pipe is the culprit. I am looking at buying the full coolant system upgrade kit from Euro AMP, but have a couple of questions:
Does my diagnosis seem reasonable? I can't get a good look at the lower pipe to confirm an issue.
Is the aluminum coolant pipe install a reasonable DIY job? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have tools (and willing to buy as needed), but don't want to get in over my head. I haven't had my F Type very long, but have done VAP lower pulley install, changed air filters, etc. I think the real question surrounds removing and reinstalling the supercharger.
Thanks to a few good threads on the aluminum cooling pipes I think I have a pretty good idea of what is involved, but it seems there are more posts about how a shop did the job than about owners DIY'ing this particular task. Input/Advice is appreciated.
It will take a while but you can DIY. High probability that one of the coolant pipes where they enter the block under the supercharger has cracked right at neck where they enter the block, It's a very common failure. I did it on a 2013 XF which basically has the same system. Probably take you most of a day to do it, just alot of stuff to remove to get the pipes out. Consider changing out your SC coupler while you have it all opened up, they wear quite bad as well. Water pump as well depending on your mileage. When the one on the XF went, the pipe split in the middle and at the neck where it entered the block.
My mechanic said it was a PITA...and he is a bmw engine bearing rebuilding all day long person. FYI. THey pulled the hood off the car to make it easier to do without scratching the hood...one can pull it full vertical with just loosening the shocks...ymmv.
Did the fluid (it can be hard to get...FORD is ok...make sure you have the coolant ready). Thermostat (hard to find). Waterpump. Belt. Metal pipes. I did the rear plast piece that can fail with a new one just in case anyway since we were there (30 dollar part...). Also did the s/c fluid. SC snout (turned out to be about to go in my case.....no symptoms). 20 dollar ebay solid part.
The only think left for me now is to replace the rear plastic thing (closest to driver/passenger) once a metal one is made (hopefully soon). EuroAMP has full kits....just saying. Snout stuff is on ebay (fluid, solid part). Have had no issues since. Burping the coolant is apparently a pita too. There a a few small metal pieces to replace too...I did them all.
Not a small job. I was a machinist a long time ago....I felt it best to pay an expert as things can break along the way....it paid off as an intake plastic piece was found to be cracked and got fixed, etc. Plus, 2y warranty on the work...not the parts but the labor....since I supplied the parts.
Hi guys,
Here's a question I have not seen in previous posts. The part that is being discussed here is the plastic Y part that eventually cracks from the heat caused by the engine. Jaguar Land Rover clearly knows about this issue. Have they rectified this defective cracking part. And if it is not defective let's call it low grade low quality maybe even borderline cheap and therefore the part cracks after a certain point in time. For the newer car model f-type sports cards, model year 22 and 23, has Jaguar installed a completely different upgraded revised better part, so the newer car models no longer experience the cracking/leaking issue which is discussed here in this thread. Thank you so much.
Hi guys,
Here's a question I have not seen in previous posts. The part that is being discussed here is the plastic Y part that eventually cracks from the heat caused by the engine. Jaguar Land Rover clearly knows about this issue. Have they rectified this defective cracking part. And if it is not defective let's call it low grade low quality maybe even borderline cheap and therefore the part cracks after a certain point in time. For the newer car model f-type sports cards, model year 22 and 23, has Jaguar installed a completely different upgraded revised better part, so the newer car models no longer experience the cracking/leaking issue which is discussed here in this thread. Thank you so much.
Supposedly, JLR redesigned the plastic pipes with new pieces but they are still plastic. They may have switched to a more heat resistant type of plastic for the new pipes.
Supposedly, JLR redesigned the plastic pipes with new pieces but they are still plastic. They may have switched to a more heat resistant type of plastic for the new pipes.
There is no “supposedly” about it. The parts were indeed redesigned (and I have a set “just in case”); the newer version no longer has the seams where the early version could (and often did) split. So far the redesign seems successful but for long-term use, the aluminum aftermarket version is clearly a better bet
There is no “supposedly” about it. The parts were indeed redesigned (and I have a set “just in case”); the newer version no longer has the seams where the early version could (and often did) split. So far the redesign seems successful but for long-term use, the aluminum aftermarket version is clearly a better bet
Yes and you were smart too wait to get them too!
They started at around $215 for the pair and they must be selling like hotcakes because the price has now dropped to around $60 for both Al. pipes!! Heck even more price drop as that Amazon link has them for $53 for the pair! So I think they are now even cheaper than the factory plastic parts?
Yes I paid the large original price but still happy I got them. I was afraid at first they would soon go out of production because of limited demand but apparently not!
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Seems like as good of a thread as any to post this in. 2017 V6 which has been sitting in the garage for about two months on a battery charger. Drove it today, and just now when I went to put it in the garage got a "Coolant Low" Warning. I had one probably about 4 months ago as well and bought some to top off the tank. Just now ended up putting almost half a gallon of coolant into the tank and busted out the flashlight to see what's going on since that seems like a lot. Turns out I find this which definitely seems to show the issue. AS you can tell I did have the pipes replaced after I bought the car almost two years ago now. I have not really worked on this car myself but my guess is that it's just the rubber hose that is leaking. Not sure if I can replace that easily or if it's going to take more work along the lines of when the pipes were replaced....
Since you have the 2 piece rear water manifold. I would remove it and split it open and then reseal it.
Shame that you got a leak. I also have a 2 piece version but no leaks so far. I have around 8K miles on mine.
Now that stain "might" be a leaking hose as the hose is directly above the stains. Easy to check and before tearing into things a quick pressure test would be a good idea.
The only good thing is yours is out in the open so much easier to get too and work on compared to the V-8's. Especially in cars like my XJ with the rear of the engine stuffed WAY back under the cowling!
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Since you have the 2 piece rear water manifold. I would remove it and split it open and then reseal it.
Shame that you got a leak. I also have a 2 piece version but no leaks so far. I have around 8K miles on mine.
Now that stain "might" be a leaking hose as the hose is directly above the stains. Easy to check and before tearing into things a quick pressure test would be a good idea.
The only good thing is yours is out in the open so much easier to get too and work on compared to the V-8's. Especially in cars like my XJ with the rear of the engine stuffed WAY back under the cowling!
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Thanks, my thought is the hose because if it was between the pieces it wouldn't have a residue on top, just below which you can see. Pressure tester should be here today...
Coolant Leak - Experienced Advice Requested
