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I've just gotten my car back after dealer kindly replaced all the sticky parts on my 2016 under its still remaining 5yr warranty. Shout out to my great Autobahn dealer and service manager, Adam for their excellent service and quality work.
The new parts have a different finish and will not have the same issue again.
As for sending cleaning off yourself, or sending off to stickyRx or stickynomore, the problem is disassembly is needed for quality results. The sticky smears and ***** up when you basically scrape it off with a credit card, toothpick, or credit card, etc.easy to get on leather unless carefully masked with tin foil. You don't want sticky from the masking tape on your leather either. Then the toothpick must be used judiciously to keep removing the stuff that gets in the cracks between the buttons. Easy to see how a switch could eventually get fouled if you miss any in the cracks.
The second issue is rubbing through the sticky into the underlying paint. It's hard to know when to stop until too late.
My dealer replaced the entire steering wheel just for one small trim at the bottom around the horn button. Was this necessary because the trim wasn't available or integrated into the steering wheel some way? I didn't get a good answer, and the bottom horn trim part appears in the parts diagram as a separate part. However if the top clamshell of your steering wheel is sticky, it is definitely not sold separately even though the other switches for cruise and stereo are. I don't know the steering wheel cost but I'll bet it isn't cheap.
The door handle trim is definitely sold separately and the entire door panel does not need to be replaced. I don't know if they had to remove the door panel to change it, though. The center vent must also be removed for it's bezel to be changed, I'm told.
my 2016 seems to have had fewer sticky parts than some have reported, so I'm guessing sometime in 2016-17 that bad coating was no longer an issue. Some of my trim parts were finished exactly like the new replacement parts and have never yet become sticky. The new parts match those old perfectly. The old sticky parts had a slightly different color, slightly lighter and grayer in color. Subtle differences though.
Wish someone would post the vin number where that no more sticky happened. Any sticky 2017s out there?
As for cost to jaguar for warranty before or after cpo? It costs jaguar the same either way, but the customer good will would be a heck of a lot better if they caught and turned in any warranty work "before" they sell the car to you hoping you won't notice until just after it isn't covered any longer.
Can you provide the TSB from the invoice or RO from
the dealer - I have a similar build 2016 with a few suspect pieces. I would anticipate mentioning it only to hear “TSB? What TSB? - Thanks
Can you provide the TSB from the invoice or RO from
the dealer - I have a similar build 2016 with a few suspect pieces. I would anticipate mentioning it only to hear “TSB? What TSB? - Thanks
JTB00447 for the XJ. It covers 2010-2015, VIN#s V00001-V83459. Therefore I am surprised by the 2016 that has problems.
As others have posted jtb00447 covers sticky pieces on the xj not the ftype. I do not know of one specifically for the ftype. My MY2016 vin is k247xx, so perhaps by unhinged's k27xxx it was no longer an issue. Dealer says not an issue for 2018s up but he's not sure about 2017s.
Where would I find a RO on my service ticket? Looks like a 32324 in front of each delaminating item listed, if that helps.
Would love to hear more about getting this covered under cpo warranty after original warranty expires. My dealer says it's only covered under original 5yr and trim pieces are specifically excluded. Willing dealer, indeed.
I used Dunlop 65 fretboard cleaner conditioner on my 2014. its a lemon oil based product. I did my whole interior and worked.
I suggest you do one piece at a time. apply let set 5 minute's wipe off with a micro fiber cloth then wipe again with a damp cloth repeat
steps as needed to remove stickiness.
It takes time but does work and it did not remove the silkscreen for the buttons. I used it on all sticky interior part.
Don't let anyone tell you the parts are suppose to be sticky.
2014 coupe build date Oct 2014 MY 2015, 30,000 miles, zero sticky buttons or sticky anything ever.
I think I commented years ago in some other thread that I reckon it's down to skin chemistry, some drivers (and passengers) have a skin chemistry which damages the buttons and other rubberised plastic surfaces and some don't, guess I'm one of the lucky ones!
some drivers (and passengers) have a skin chemistry which damages the buttons and other rubberised plastic surfaces and some don't,
I don't know...if that were true, the sticky bits would show themselves on one side or the other, IMO.
I think its a function of UV, or just strong sunlight. Ours got kinda sticky last year after it sat, top down, in bright hot sun. (They got better after a night in the garage)
My brother's Volvo S40 had sticky controls that literally turned to 'soup'. That car wasn't garaged, though.
I don't know...if that were true, the sticky bits would show themselves on one side or the other, IMO.
I think its a function of UV, or just strong sunlight. Ours got kinda sticky last year after it sat, top down, in bright hot sun. (They got better after a night in the garage)
My brother's Volvo S40 had sticky controls that literally turned to 'soup'. That car wasn't garaged, though.
Yep, you could be right, I was just taking a WAG!
My car has never sat out in the sun for an extended period (other than while driving) and in the rare times I park it outside of the garage for more than an hour or so I make sure the pano roof cover is pulled over, I fit a windscreen sunshade and I crack both windows by 20 mm or so.
It can get pretty damned hot in my neck of the woods and after a measly 30 minutes in the sun the dash is too hot to touch without burning yourself, but that only happens to me two or three times a year, probably not enough to "melt" the buttons.
Yep, you could be right, I was just taking a WAG!
My car has never sat out in the sun for an extended period (other than while driving) and in the rare times I park it outside of the garage for more than an hour or so I make sure the pano roof cover is pulled over, I fit a windscreen sunshade and I crack both windows by 20 mm or so.
It can get pretty damned hot in my neck of the woods and after a measly 30 minutes in the sun the dash is too hot to touch without burning yourself, but that only happens to me two or three times a year, probably not enough to "melt" the buttons.
Yes, I always go out of my way to park the car inside or under some shade. Makes it an easy target for the avian bombardiers, but I clean the crap of as soon as I see it. Ceramic Pro seems to be oblivious.
This is by no means an exclusively "Jaguar problem" - many makes used this same finish to their buttons and switches with the same result. And it won't make a bit of difference to the resale value of F-Types. Often only "real world" experience reveals the durability of finishes...a perfect example is the nikasil cylinder coating used by both BMW and Jaguar in the 90's. Both companies were faced with engine replacements when the engines faced two failure-contributing factors: high sulphur content fuel and very short active engine periods - moving a car out of a garage to wash it, for example, the restarting and putting it back in the garage. Done enough times, this resulted in the excess fuel in the cylinders damaging the nikasil coating, resulting in a lack of compression. Could this have been foreseen? It could be foreseen in hindsight! It is very easy to pillory manufacturers as though they produced defective products on purpose. The truth is that they work very hard to build quality products, but sometimes....
And a very simple, easy, cheap and permanent fix for this problem is to simply coat the vulnerable switches and other pieces with a satin finish varathane - brushed on. This is effective and especially useful for the pieces that receive heavy use - the audio on/off button, for example, and the P switch, but it works on any of the coated parts. It is much faster than removing the existing finish and it leaves a durable coating.
so have you done this treatment yourself on your F type?
I suspect not. You are recommending a course of action which will result in a huge mess for anyone following your advice. Just put varnish on top of the Jaguar glue on the switches....really? I hope that no one follows this suggestion unless you have pictures of your results on your F type.
so have you done this treatment yourself on your F type?
I suspect not. You are recommending a course of action which will result in a huge mess for anyone following your advice. Just put varnish on top of the Jaguar glue on the switches....really? I hope that no one follows this suggestion unless you have pictures of your results on your F type.
Not true. The buttons in my car are not and have never been sticky. BUT I have had that issue on other cars, AND in my F-Type, to prevent any issue of wear or stickyness on the three most frequently-used buttons (the start/stop and the P button and the radio control) I have indeed used a satin finish clear coat - with perfect results both in my F-Type and in other cars. I do not recommend procedures or items that I do not use myself - and my experience is with restoring multiple Jaguars. The finish (it is not varnish) does not mix with the rubberised switch coating. It leaves the switch with a clear, hard, satin finish. If any of the other controls start to show any sign of deterioration I will use the same process on them. But my car is not left to bake in the sun for extended periods.
Not true. The buttons in my car are not and have never been sticky. BUT I have had that issue on other cars, AND in my F-Type, to prevent any issue of wear or stickyness on the three most frequently-used buttons (the start/stop and the P button and the radio control) I have indeed used a satin finish clear coat - with perfect results both in my F-Type and in other cars. I do not recommend procedures or items that I do not use myself - and my experience is with restoring multiple Jaguars. The finish (it is not varnish) does not mix with the rubberised switch coating. It leaves the switch with a clear, hard, satin finish. If any of the other controls start to show any sign of deterioration I will use the same process on them. But my car is not left to bake in the sun for extended periods.
Well that's good to know. So the recommendation is to clear coat all these touch points whether sticky or not? A couple of pictures of your clear coated F type switches would be worth a thousand words. My concern is your recommendation to people suffering from sticky button syndrome to clear coat the affected areas. I hope that they will be happy with your recommendation.
Because the solution is to get these areas replaced, or laboriously use an alcohol pad and scrape off the glue.
But if you want to send people down the clear coat path, so be it. Now where are those pictures?
Here you are, photos taken just now - as you can see, the buttons coated with a satin finish look exactly as the original-finish buttons look.
And this is what I used (well this can is of the gloss version...). It can be sprayed on if you remove the buttons, or brushed on:
Well that looks good and appears not to have reacted with the original coating. My replaced switches feel like a different compound and perhaps they changed the materials after the 2014 MY. Is your car a 2014 or later.
However, I would be hesitant to try using a varnish once the finish has started to get sticky because it is a hideous sight and I cannot imagine that varnish would mitigate that situation. Replace or alcohol seems to be the only solution.
Well that looks good and appears not to have reacted with the original coating. My replaced switches feel like a different compound and perhaps they changed the materials after the 2014 MY. Is your car a 2014 or later.
However, I would be hesitant to try using a varnish once the finish has started to get sticky because it is a hideous sight and I cannot imagine that varnish would mitigate that situation. Replace or alcohol seems to be the only solution.
I have used this product for other applications btw, but could never figure out to apply it to window switches and other fiddly areas, the D/Dynamic switch which was also gooey for example.
