That looks amazing, any chance you'd considering building that for a price?

 

I probably have about 50hrs in tweaking and fine tuning the dimensions of this box to take advantage of every square inch possible with minimal cutting on any of the factory parts and pieces and not fiberglass the well. I was able to achieve these results with removing 1 floor stud, reorienting the ground wire, relocating the bosch and the eco start module, and very minor trimming on the right rear floor panel corner. The goal was to be able to return the stock storage floor compartment and floor panel if the car was every sold. That ain't happening, wife does not know this yet.

I am happy to share the details to help anyone who might like to copy but I am not really sure I want to be in the enclosure business again. I'm basshead from back in the day and use to compete on the IASCA circuit. I have built a many enclosure in my day from quad ported 10's, to dual 12's to isobaric dual 15's. Whew, I sure wish I had the money today that I pumped into that hobby.

 

Here is the port for the box.

 

Thanks for posting all the pictures. That's a great install. Now i know how you got so much room into such a small space. Kudos to you.

 

Please explain the purpose of the port horn extended and directed toward the sub.

 

No purpose, just where it ended up to get the port length I needed. I have also created a plug that will effectively convert this ported enclosure into a .88cuft sealed enclosure incase I wanted to switch it up.

 

Ok, thanks. I thought there was something I was misinformed on. Appreciate the response.

 

So here is an update with my build, a bit frustrated to say the least.

While testing the sub woofer, I tapped a speaker level input from one of the four sub woofer channels to the Audio Control 1.300. The Max voltage I was able to produce was about .8 volts AC at full head unit volume.

I have had the vehicle into Jag 2 times for issues with the rear sub output virtually non-existent but really hard to tell because the door speakers put out so much bass. They have done software updates twice now to no avail. I have since been able to find out that this car was apparently built with the components for the Meridian 770W Surround but configured as a Meridian 380W system. The amplifier installed in this car is the Prem 16 channel amp with the touch pro head unit. I also popped the dash grill and low and behold there is a center channel speaker installed but not working.

Either the 380W system software is screwing up the system or it has possibly damaged the sub channels in some manor. You can also hear distortion/noise coming from the sub woofers when the volume is set low at about level 3 or 4. I also noticed that the rear fill speakers are completely silent until you fade to the rear more than two step which then they abruptly start playing which does not seem right either.

I have another appointment to take the car in on May 3 so we will see how this plays out.

 

What frequency test tones were you using to measure the sub voltage?

 

Definitely not right there. I worked out that for subwoofer amp there were only two choices - the acm 1.300 or kicker amps which could both accept high level inputs up to 40V. All other brands would not be able to handle the 380 or 770w system, so 0.8v if way way off.
The other thread about upgrading the 380w to 770w amp thread said there were no issues with swapping the amps first and doing the software upgrade later so it shouldn't matter that you have 770w amp with 380 software. It is very odd how you ended up with this mix.
Maybe start with the software upgrade to see if it fixes anything.

could it be something as simple as poor wiring connector ? or a polarity issue ?

 

50Hz test tone.

 

It would be interesting to run through a range from maybe 30Hz up through 100hz. We have no idea what sort of range is being passed of if there is a subsonic filter in place. 50Hz shouldn't be getting cut at all though considering this is supposed to be a sub but just for the same of investigating...

 

I played several bass track and the results were all the same. Very little power coming out of that channel.

 

Probably only looking at about 20V max. The subs are dual 2ohm coils and I doubt they are getting more than 75w per coil considering the total 13 channel system is 770w.

 

As a comparison the 1.300 is 350 watts rms into a 2 ohm load. That equates to 26.4 VAC before clipping of the signal occurs.

 

Can you or someone take a measurement on one of your sub channels with 50hz tone at full volume? 75W = 12.24 VAC

 

At some point I can but I haven't actually pulled out the rear panel to access the wiring yet. I definitely need to get motivated though because I have my sub and amp just sitting in the garage.

Curious when you played that 50hz tone - was there much sound coming from the door woofers? I would assume that signal is getting filtered below maybe 70-90Hz but who knows.

 

Checked this evening and front speakers start to pick up and add substantial bass around 38Hz. At no time does the voltage go over .8 VAC on the sub channel I am measuring, at any volume level which is less than 1 watt assuming the amp is suppose to be putting out 75watts per channel. Voltage starts to drop on the sub channel at 80Hz.

 

Checked this evening and front speakers start to pick up and add substantial bass around 38Hz. At no time does the voltage go over .8 VAC on the sub channel I am measuring, at any volume level which is less than 1 watt assuming the amp is suppose to be putting out 75watts per channel. Voltage starts to drop on the sub channel at 80Hz.

 

I have no idea what the power levels are for each channel - I just guessed 75w for the 4 sub channels as that would leave 470w for the other 9 speakers. Seems like a reasonable guess.

Voltage DECREASES on the sub channel at 80Hz? You mean above 80HZ right?