Dead battery - How to get trunk open?
#21
Looks like the battery is really dead
Got the trunk open, took the old battery out, and hooked it up to a Battery Tender Plus I bought. The amber and green lights kept alternating, and according to the manual, that's either incorrect polarity (and I know I hooked them up right), or a dead/defective battery.
Just to be sure, I hooked the tender up to another old car battery I had which died a couple years ago, and same thing happened.
I'm going to call the service department next week when they open after the holiday and tell them the situation, and hope maybe a new battery will be covered under the CPO warranty I have. I just hope they don't insist it be towed to the service department instead of me just bringing the battery in, because I really don't want to fool with them having to undo the shift lever, parking brake, push it out of the garage, etc. I'd rather just pay for a new battery myself.
Wish I'd known about the module reset sooner. I should have done more research when the Low Battery warnings first happened. Oh well. Live and learn.
Got the trunk open, took the old battery out, and hooked it up to a Battery Tender Plus I bought. The amber and green lights kept alternating, and according to the manual, that's either incorrect polarity (and I know I hooked them up right), or a dead/defective battery.
Just to be sure, I hooked the tender up to another old car battery I had which died a couple years ago, and same thing happened.
I'm going to call the service department next week when they open after the holiday and tell them the situation, and hope maybe a new battery will be covered under the CPO warranty I have. I just hope they don't insist it be towed to the service department instead of me just bringing the battery in, because I really don't want to fool with them having to undo the shift lever, parking brake, push it out of the garage, etc. I'd rather just pay for a new battery myself.
Wish I'd known about the module reset sooner. I should have done more research when the Low Battery warnings first happened. Oh well. Live and learn.
#22
Tenders won't work to restore a completely dead battery. What works best for that is a 6 amp "stupid" charger. (they look like lunch boxes with cables) Give this a try if you don't have one: Remove battery from car. Gently rock the dead battery back and forth to move the acid around a bit. Then connect the donor battery to the dead one (+ to +, -to -). Let it sit for an hour. Then disconnect and see if you get an orange light with the tender. Let it charge if you do. My current F-Type battery was drained twice to the point where the tender would not work on it. I'm certain the battery life was diminished, but it still has a lot left.
#23
Oh...better yet! If the donor battery is in another car, jumper to your F-Type battery while the other car is running. Make certain both sides of the battery are disconnected from the Jag. Leave the other car charging the battery for about 10 minutes, then it should have enough juice for the tender to recognize it as a real battery.
#24
Oh...better yet! If the donor battery is in another car, jumper to your F-Type battery while the other car is running. Make certain both sides of the battery are disconnected from the Jag. Leave the other car charging the battery for about 10 minutes, then it should have enough juice for the tender to recognize it as a real battery.
#25
Yesterday, I ran my other car for 10 minutes with the Jag's battery connected (while out of the Jag), and then the Battery Tender did NOT cycle the amber and green LEDs, which is supposed to mean it's charging.
Left it that way all day until I went to bed and disconnected it, because I didn't want it charging overnight while I was asleep, just in case there were any problems.
This morning, I went to hook the BT up again, and it cycled the LEDs again and wouldn't start charging.
I wonder if this battery is so drained or damaged that it's just not going to hold a charge? I'm starting to not trust it. I'll call the service department tomorrow when they open up and see if they'll cover it under warranty. If not, I'll probably just buy a new Interstate to replace it, and make sure I reset that module if I ever see the Low Battery warning again.
Left it that way all day until I went to bed and disconnected it, because I didn't want it charging overnight while I was asleep, just in case there were any problems.
This morning, I went to hook the BT up again, and it cycled the LEDs again and wouldn't start charging.
I wonder if this battery is so drained or damaged that it's just not going to hold a charge? I'm starting to not trust it. I'll call the service department tomorrow when they open up and see if they'll cover it under warranty. If not, I'll probably just buy a new Interstate to replace it, and make sure I reset that module if I ever see the Low Battery warning again.
#26
I would hedge my bets that the battery is in fact damaged internally...possibly either an open or short circuit cell, which could cause the symptoms you describe with your charger.
10 minutes 'jump' charging ought to be sufficient juice into a flat battery to enable a reasonable BT (Ctek or the like) to take control thereafter.
The batteries do get abused whilst being at the dealers, especially if it's an ex demo car, and recovering from real low voltage cycles can, if it is a lemon battery, cause it to give up the ghost.
Once you do get sorted with a new battery, invest in a CTEK if you haven't already.
We have had our car a year, and when I park it up, I just plug it into the comfort lead which takes all of 20 secs, and it's good to go. You'd be amased just how much current the F-Type draws even in its 'quiescent' state...it's hungry!
10 minutes 'jump' charging ought to be sufficient juice into a flat battery to enable a reasonable BT (Ctek or the like) to take control thereafter.
The batteries do get abused whilst being at the dealers, especially if it's an ex demo car, and recovering from real low voltage cycles can, if it is a lemon battery, cause it to give up the ghost.
Once you do get sorted with a new battery, invest in a CTEK if you haven't already.
We have had our car a year, and when I park it up, I just plug it into the comfort lead which takes all of 20 secs, and it's good to go. You'd be amased just how much current the F-Type draws even in its 'quiescent' state...it's hungry!
#27
Yesterday, I ran my other car for 10 minutes with the Jag's battery connected (while out of the Jag), and then the Battery Tender did NOT cycle the amber and green LEDs, which is supposed to mean it's charging.
Left it that way all day until I went to bed and disconnected it, because I didn't want it charging overnight while I was asleep, just in case there were any problems.
This morning, I went to hook the BT up again, and it cycled the LEDs again and wouldn't start charging.
I wonder if this battery is so drained or damaged that it's just not going to hold a charge? I'm starting to not trust it. I'll call the service department tomorrow when they open up and see if they'll cover it under warranty. If not, I'll probably just buy a new Interstate to replace it, and make sure I reset that module if I ever see the Low Battery warning again.
Left it that way all day until I went to bed and disconnected it, because I didn't want it charging overnight while I was asleep, just in case there were any problems.
This morning, I went to hook the BT up again, and it cycled the LEDs again and wouldn't start charging.
I wonder if this battery is so drained or damaged that it's just not going to hold a charge? I'm starting to not trust it. I'll call the service department tomorrow when they open up and see if they'll cover it under warranty. If not, I'll probably just buy a new Interstate to replace it, and make sure I reset that module if I ever see the Low Battery warning again.
#29
Unhingd,
I had this same issue. had the car hooked up to a tender over the winter. Car is totally dead. Per your suggestion in this thread, I tried using a battery and also tried a 15A charger and no luck getting any power to open the trunk. Car is totally dead. Any other suggestions or tricks?
If I have to have it towed, how will they move it with it locked in park?
I had this same issue. had the car hooked up to a tender over the winter. Car is totally dead. Per your suggestion in this thread, I tried using a battery and also tried a 15A charger and no luck getting any power to open the trunk. Car is totally dead. Any other suggestions or tricks?
If I have to have it towed, how will they move it with it locked in park?
#30
[QUOTE=cbrifly;2044560]Unhingd,
I had this same issue. had the car hooked up to a tender over the winter. Car is totally dead. Per your suggestion in this thread, I tried using a battery and also tried a 15A charger and no luck getting any power to open the trunk. Car is totally dead. Any other suggestions or tricks?
When I connect the charger to the terminals on the passenger under hood side, voltage shows 12.8-13v. The tender says the battery is good....
I had this same issue. had the car hooked up to a tender over the winter. Car is totally dead. Per your suggestion in this thread, I tried using a battery and also tried a 15A charger and no luck getting any power to open the trunk. Car is totally dead. Any other suggestions or tricks?
When I connect the charger to the terminals on the passenger under hood side, voltage shows 12.8-13v. The tender says the battery is good....
#31
[QUOTE=cbrifly;2044569]
What voltage do you read across those two terminals without the charger or another battery attached?
Next thing to try is to leave the charger attached for about 20 minutes before you try to open the rear hatch. Report back and we’ll try something else.
Unhingd,
I had this same issue. had the car hooked up to a tender over the winter. Car is totally dead. Per your suggestion in this thread, I tried using a battery and also tried a 15A charger and no luck getting any power to open the trunk. Car is totally dead. Any other suggestions or tricks?
When I connect the charger to the terminals on the passenger under hood side, voltage shows 12.8-13v. The tender says the battery is good....
I had this same issue. had the car hooked up to a tender over the winter. Car is totally dead. Per your suggestion in this thread, I tried using a battery and also tried a 15A charger and no luck getting any power to open the trunk. Car is totally dead. Any other suggestions or tricks?
When I connect the charger to the terminals on the passenger under hood side, voltage shows 12.8-13v. The tender says the battery is good....
Next thing to try is to leave the charger attached for about 20 minutes before you try to open the rear hatch. Report back and we’ll try something else.
#32
I tried the charger on for 20-30 min. Voltage on the charger went high 14-15V at 2A. I then put it back on the Batteryminder. It charged for about 30min then went to maintain.
I took it off the BatteryMinder and immediately measured 13.7V, About 10min later it dropped to 13.05V. Still nada.
I took it off the BatteryMinder and immediately measured 13.7V, About 10min later it dropped to 13.05V. Still nada.
#33
I tried the charger on for 20-30 min. Voltage on the charger went high 14-15V at 2A. I then put it back on the Batteryminder. It charged for about 30min then went to maintain.
I took it off the BatteryMinder and immediately measured 13.7V, About 10min later it dropped to 13.05V. Still nada.
I took it off the BatteryMinder and immediately measured 13.7V, About 10min later it dropped to 13.05V. Still nada.
#34
#35
I can’t rule it out. Stored in attached garage. I haven’t moved the car since the power is dead but no signs of droppings around the car. No odor in the car either. I don’t see anything strange in the engine compartment from above. Haven’t seen anything in the garage over the winter either.
#36
Nothing wrong with your battery, then. Something wrong with one of your control modules, or a major fuse blew. In an older car, I would say a fusible link fried. Not certain in the case of the F-Type. I believe there is a fuse box under the hood on the left side of the firewall. I’m 1000 miles from my car and shop manual computer now, so I can’t offer additional guidance until Monday.
Last edited by cbrifly; 03-24-2019 at 11:09 AM.
#38
Disconnect the battery for a minute or two. That will reboot most of the modules on the car, and everything might start working properly. However, you might have to undertake a special rain dance to reset the windows auto-up function.
Last edited by Unhingd; 03-24-2019 at 05:26 PM.
#39
Still can't get into the trunk....
#40
I left the iPhone charger plug in the power outlet (but no phone) and the next day I got the low battery sign. I was surprised that the charge plug alone would drain the battery and more surprised that the vehicle's management system didn't turn off all the power drains automatically. I just hooked up the battery manager and that took care of it. Something else to be aware of.