Dead battery- what to expect?
Well I paid for a mobile mechanic to come and jump start me
He said run it for 30 minutes- hopefully that will charge it
Did that and upon restarting the car got the “low battery warning”
Definately needs a new battery
Anyone want to recommend a good quality reliable replacement??
Appreciate all comments
Cheers
He said run it for 30 minutes- hopefully that will charge it
Did that and upon restarting the car got the “low battery warning”
Definately needs a new battery
Anyone want to recommend a good quality reliable replacement??
Appreciate all comments
Cheers
Last edited by Rat Fink65; Aug 31, 2024 at 10:12 PM.
If the battery was flat putting alternator voltage into it for half an hour won't get anywhere near a full charge so it's quite possible that it'll still be below the warning threshold. Not saying your battery doesn't need changing but if you have a CTEK (or similar) try putting it on the recondition programme for a day and see how that goes.
I've always gone for Varta replacement batteries.
I've always gone for Varta replacement batteries.
Varta is very expensive in the US last I checked. I used an Everlast from Autozone, $199 at the time. Be sure to inspect the battery - discovered mine was damaged when I got home, had to go back and exchange.
This cannot be stated enough—charge the battery overnight (8+ hours) or you won’t truly eliminate an undercharged battery as the culprit. Even a brand new battery should get this treatment. A truly flat battery on a maintainer (like a CTEK) vs a dedicated 10A charger can take 24 hours or longer to bring to a fully topped-up charge.
Last edited by Thunder Dump; Sep 1, 2024 at 12:57 PM.
This cannot be stated enough—charge the battery overnight (8+ hours) or you won’t truly eliminate an undercharged battery as the culprit. Even a brand new battery should get this treatment. A truly flat battery on a maintainer (like a CTEK) vs a dedicated 10A charger can take 24 hours or longer to bring to a fully topped-up charge.
car cranked over
No low battery warning
Was hooked to my CTEK overnight (as it usually is)… this time using a new CTEK unit
So my question to figure out is how “charged” is my battery?
Originally Posted by sov211
the battery in my 1966 Mk2 is now 20 years old and working just fine…intermittently on a CTEK unit. The clock doesn’t draw much current!

The more expensive luxury cars (like the Jag) probably had the type of car clock where, when the clockspring wound down, a set of contacts were connected and a little motor wound it!
Sorry for the Topic Drift.

Installed a new battery last week.
used the front charge post with a 12 volt power source. The Voltran (15 amp)battery charger. Most chargers do not do this.
with the battery charger I charged the battery overnight before installation. The “new” battery was about. 35% charged.
nothing to set.
took about ten minutes to change.
my P300 had a H7 battery. Other cars have the H8. Mine was set up for either. I was concerned it might not fit. Batteries here are not returnable. The new battery was 50 cold starting amps more than the factory battery.
used the front charge post with a 12 volt power source. The Voltran (15 amp)battery charger. Most chargers do not do this.
with the battery charger I charged the battery overnight before installation. The “new” battery was about. 35% charged.
nothing to set.
took about ten minutes to change.
my P300 had a H7 battery. Other cars have the H8. Mine was set up for either. I was concerned it might not fit. Batteries here are not returnable. The new battery was 50 cold starting amps more than the factory battery.
Sorry to be clueless, my new battery is still triggering the low battery warning, so I have ordered the CTEK 5amp charger. Do I just whack it on the battery terminals overnight and let it do its thing?
The clock in 60’s Jaguars were electric, requiring no winding. At this point, they rarely work. Mine does🤗
Or else you can connect your CTEK up to the charging posts under the hood/bonnet.
Not all Jaguars... Sometime in the 69/69 time frame, E types moved to a clock with a 'mercury cell' battery. Although one cannot know EXACTLY at which VIN the changeover took place, reading I have done led me to think my 69 E, built August of 69 should have had the cell battery. Not so, runs off the car battery. I've had the clock reconditioned and it's generally pretty reliable. When I bought the car in 1989, a positive point was that the clock still ran. It has turned out to be a really good car.
Just continuing in this thread as it is relevant to what might be expected, I have had the low battery warning for nearly a week after the battery was replaced, it usually is driven about 10km twice a day and then I gave it a bigger run on the weekend, about 20km each way. Still low battery warning yesterday morning. Then on the way home the air conditioning stopped chilling (still blowing), this morning no low battery warning but no air conditioning either, even when I cranked it right up.
The CTEK charger has been ordered, I'm hoping that a fully charged battery will sort it all, but will I need to have tech's clear the fault codes etc?
The CTEK charger has been ordered, I'm hoping that a fully charged battery will sort it all, but will I need to have tech's clear the fault codes etc?
Just continuing in this thread as it is relevant to what might be expected, I have had the low battery warning for nearly a week after the battery was replaced, it usually is driven about 10km twice a day and then I gave it a bigger run on the weekend, about 20km each way. Still low battery warning yesterday morning. Then on the way home the air conditioning stopped chilling (still blowing), this morning no low battery warning but no air conditioning either, even when I cranked it right up.
The CTEK charger has been ordered, I'm hoping that a fully charged battery will sort it all, but will I need to have tech's clear the fault codes etc?
The CTEK charger has been ordered, I'm hoping that a fully charged battery will sort it all, but will I need to have tech's clear the fault codes etc?
They are an absolutely essential item on any modern Jag and will save you the purchase price in next to no time.
Plenty around at a reasonable price from iCarsoft, Autel etc just search on Fleabay, Amazon etc.
Easy enough to check, if it has a second/auxiliary battery that battery lives under the hatch on the floor of the boot near the rear right-side corner, just pull the cover up and have a gander.
That's the big primary battery, the second battery if there is one is on the other side of the hatch/boot half tucked under the rear trim.
IIRC you need to pull the cubby box out to access/see it.
IIRC you need to pull the cubby box out to access/see it.









