As long as you replace that with lobster and blueberries, you're good.

I'm unclear if the proverbial 'spare tire' counts as sprung or unsprung weight.

 

Although sacrifices will be made...it will have no impact on the essentialials of life (Lobster and wild blueberries)

 

Given that weight down at the level of the wheels is good for the ride and handling, would it be the case that you are better off with heavy brakes but look to lose weight in the body and engine areas?

I was also wondering, does anyone know the difference between the weight of the engine in the 6 and the 8? They drive a lot differently but if it is the same block without a couple of cylinders you wouldnt think there;d be much weight difference.

 

Losing unsprung mass gives the best advantage to ride, handling and performance.

So lighter wheels, lighter brake disc, lighter brake calipers, lights suspension components all have the biggest positive effect.

Next is weight up top so a carbon roof for example is ideal.

 

Cheers but that seems to be the opposite to what Jag is doing with the XE and the e-Pace, which is to throw a lot of weight into the suspension. That has definitely worked with the XE, the ride, steering, and handling in them is perfect - in the R-sport models at least. Though they have a good weight distribution as well.

 

....112 lbs IIRC

Dave

 

Nope, the Project 8 had ceramic brakes, this is less weight. F Type SVR used in racing has ceramic brakes.

Removing unsprung mass improves handling, ride quality and acceleration.

The perfect setup is:
- As little weight in unsprung mass as possible, so forged or carbon wheels, ceramic brakes, less weight in moving suspension parts.
- As much weight in the centre of the car and as low down as possible, hence Porsche Cayman, whilst still trying to keep the car as light as possible.
- As little weight high up in the car, hence why so many performance cars have carbon roofs or are cost extra options as per the SVR.


You want as little in unsprung mass for handling, ride quality and acceleration benefits. You then want the bulk of the weight as low down and towards the centre of the car as you can get it with as little weight up top.


This is why the GT86 handles so well, flat 4 engine sits lower, the car is overall light, its only downfall is a huge lack of grip and power, which aftermarket have solved.

If making cars heavier made them handle better like you suggest, then why is every single car manufacturer always releasing lightweight editions of cars that are promoted as being faster and doing quicker lap times. The Project 7, 8 and SVR F-Type being prime example of them cutting weight for improved handling and performance.

An XE is not an all out sports car, its a Saloon and the e-Pace is not a sports car at all, its a big heavy SUV that drives like crap compared to an F-Type.

Less weight is better, full stop!

 

Noting that the V8 engine weighs about that much extra, you should probably weigh yours and find out. 😎

 

I did, see the earlier thread linked. ;-) https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-161094/page5/


from the thread: AWD - V8R coupe (AWD Auto) = 3954 lbs

MBourne - V8S 'vert (RWD Auto) = 3870 lbs

Arne - V8R coupe, (RWD Auto) = 3848 lbs

DPelletier - V8S 'vert (RWD Auto) = 3846 lbs

Smoke em - V6S coupe (RWD Auto) = 3726 lbs

Unhinged - V6S coupe (RWD 6spd) = 3689 lbs

Foosh - V6 Base 'vert (RWD Auto) = 3667 lbs.



* all weights are wet, no driver, no fuel on a certified scale.


If you're questioning the engine weight difference given the car weight difference, you might be right; the engine weights might be closer than the 112 lbs we dug up during the last discussion......but I'm not going to pull my engine to weigh it! :-)


Dave

 

Wow, so a AWD/V8R/Auto with a tank of gas, (i.e. curb weight) will be over 4,000 lbs. That is truly surprising. Although someone mentioned a 4020 number before. I guess even using all the aluminum you can that big V8 is going to keep the weight up.

 

Yep, but it isn't the V8 that is the culprit as you can see by the V6 weights. I suspect it's more likely the 10 miles of electrical wires and motors for all the electronic gizmo's these cars have. My 1970 Superbee weighed almost the exact same weight as my F type; it's 17' long and has an all cast iron big block 440 engine; block, heads, exhaust and intake manifolds, etc. Wild.


Dave

 

all the un-necessary items add up two washer bottles where there could be one, exterior chrome trim, carpets, airbags, sound system ,speakers electric motors in seats, doors and spiler plus the associated wiring, carpets, glass.

Yes you can chuck loads and save a lot of weight but as someone else said.

If you do all that you bought the wrong car to start with

 

My fault. I can’t get over how heavy the F is. But when I was growing up F1 was 1.5 liter an Colin Chapman was the genius of British motoring. I had access to an Elan and I have never gotten over how enjoyable a small light car can be. I still think about having an Elan, but I doubt if many survived.

 

Safety add lots of weight. Still, I would have spec'd my car a bit differently had I been able to choose options a la carte. Wouldn't have saved me much weight, but some.

 

I don't know - you can turn a pretty meh race car into a pretty amazing race car doing nothing but cutting weight. And with the price of used V6 base and V6S models dropping, I think you could turn one into a pretty damn capable track car. In fact, just eyballing the interior of my R, I think you could lose a good 150-250lbs just from cleaning out the cockpit and removing the luxury pieces - speakers, head unit, leather everything, door panels, seats, carpeting, sound deadening, all associated wiring.

Then some lightweight wheels, exhaust, and brakes add another 100-ish lbs off.

Removing the powered rear hatch and replacing the whole thing with a lightweight piece (CF/mylan) might get a little pricey, but can easily take off another few hundred.

It's way more than you want to do for a standard road car, and it's far from the most efficient way to build a track toy, but there are plenty of people that lightweight the hell out of their Mustang GTs for track use, and those things aren't significantly lighter. All told, I think you can probably cut an F-Type V6 Base to right around 3,000 or even slightly under for less than $15k. That would put your all-in cost at somewhere around $45-55k.

Could you do better in terms of light cars? Yeah - go buy an Elise. Or a Miata, if you really want to save weight and money. But then you don't have a sexy F-Type track car. And sometimes, that's worth the money.

 

There's another couple hundred pounds by replacing the seats and eliminating the airbags, if you're building a track car. Pull the AC while you're at it.
Yes...this could be quite the track car.

 

Don't forget to remove the symposer!

 

We shall see on the upcoming GT4 cars

 

Group buy for 2PC rotors is here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...f-type-197525/

 

On the E46 M3's many saving 15-20lbs by using a battery from a Mini Cooper as it had similar capacity and cranking amps but was physically smaller hence saving considerable weight.

So that could be an option for many that gives 70% of the weight saving of the crazy expensive battery but at just 10% of the cost. Maybe something to consider.

I am going through my SVR on a mission to reduce weight without sacrificing too much of the fantastic road car it is:

My thought are:

1. Remove the sound symposer setup completely (If SVR has one?) - 5lbs
2. Removed the powered tailgate struts or gas struts completely - 10lbs
3. Swap in a lighter but conventional battery - 15lbs
4. Fit Wortec 2PC Brake disc - 40lbs
5. Remove subwoofers behind seats - 20lbs
6. Fit 200 cel AP downpipe/cats - 10lbs
7. Remove engine cover if present - 5lbs
8. Remove secondary stop / start battery if present - 15lbs
9. Go on a diet, put less fuel in car!


That is 100lbs of weight without really impacting any comfort or features of the car, only real issue is more effort to open the tailgate.

If your more serious and no so bothered about comfort/features you could go more extreme:

1. 18/19" forged allow wheels - 50-60lbs
2. Lighter exhaust if not an SVR - 50lbs
3. Lightweight fixed bucket seats - 100lbs
4. Removal of all air bags inside the car and under the hood - 75lbs
5. Removal of stereo and speakers - 40lbs


In an ideal world you'd buy a car with ceramics, carbon roof, RWD, no powered tailgate, basic stereo to have the lightest possible car to begin with.

Depends how extreme you wish to go. As I have an SVR I shall just go with my first 9 suggestions or attempt too.