built myself a simple tool out of flat steel and a threaded rod.
Most gentle way to lift the supercharger off.




Regards
Ulrich

 

Not answering your question directly but if you need to remove the snout after you get the SC off Jaguar cast in a stub where you can pry. Most people find the snout to be hard to separate from the body of the SC. Especially after it's been removed from the car. This picture was taken with the SC turned over as the stub is on the bottom of the casting.




Jaguar also has a recommended sealant when re-attaching the snout to the SC. Most people ignore that but if your interested use Loctite 515 anaerobic sealer.




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Does the 2014 V8S also have the issue with the coupler in the supercharger? I can't remember if it does or if it was just the V6.

Thanks.
Scott

 

Yes, the snout is the same.

Same issue with that brand of supercharger on other makes, too. (GM/Caddy)

 

@Carbuff2 . I have some play in the mechanism when rotating it back and forth. I don't hear any rattle or clunk. I guess I should be replacing the coupler as well as long as I'm in there this deep just to be safe. What is a good source for the coupler? I'm hesitant to buy one off EBay.

 

I'm currently trying to get the thermostat housing out. I got the three rubber hoses off easy enough. It's the bottom hard plastic piece that is giving me a problem now. I don't want to wrench on it too hard as I understand it is discontinued at this time. Is there a special pry tool that is needed to separate the two halves? Or do I have to just wedge something in there and hope it doesn't break?

 

Some slight play's normal, even with brand new ones. Lots of play means the isolator's failed.

 

I have about 5/16" of play. Turns easy. No noise or anything unusual. If that's acceptable I'll just let it go for now.

Thanks.

 

Yes, that’s normal.

 

A little off topic, but I have been wondering if my car has been tuned or any pulleys done. While everything was out of the way, I measured my supercharger pulley and also just by looking at it i can tell it is stock. I measured my crank pulley, a few times, just to be sure. I got a circumference of 495mm. This puts the diameter at 157.56mm. Everywhere I see the stock pulley size it is said to be 152mm. Are they all the same size or have they changed over the years? This is approx. 3.65% increase over the stated stock size. It is a stock pulley. I took a picture and it has the factory part number stamp on the flange. If my pulley is 157.56mm and VAP pulley is 170, that means it is only 7.3% bigger. Am I missing something?

 

Quick test--if you can rev it over 4000 rpm in Park then it has been tuned. From the factory it won't rev past 4000 in Park.

 

Did someone tell you it's got a VAP tune and kit on it? If the pulley's got the JLR part stamped on it, then it's original, obviously.

 

Thanks for that info. As soon as I get the puzzle put back together I will give it a try.

A member of the local F Type group said the previous owner "did things" to the car. He seems to think it might have been tuned. I couldn't get an answer from the PO. The pulleys are original. I have no way to check if a tune has been installed or not. I might reach out to local car groups to see if anyone has the correct tool.

 

There aren't any scan tools that will tell you if it is tuned. VAP isn't the only tuner so unless it was confirmed VAP did a tune, there's no way to know.

 

My reference to VAP above was for pulley size only. I know there re other options for tunes out there. My crank pulley measures 157mm not the 152mm that is quoted by many as the stock size. I'm wondering how many people have actually measured their own pully instead of assuming they are all the same. Maybe someone measured wrong in the past and everyone assumed it to be correct. Maybe I measured wrong. I did measure it three times. I got the same result. If my measurement is correct, and I did get a VAP lower pulley, it would only be a 7.3% increase, not 11.8%. I might measure one more time when I get home just to verify my measuring skills.

 

Once a tune has been applied, and even after it has been flashed back to the stock tune, the car will have a permanent DTC of P167F - "non-OEM calibration detected".
Pretty much any scan tool even the cheapies will show this code, my iCarsoft LR V2.0 (mid-range) does for sure.
2000JagLvr - get yourself a scan tool, one that plugs into the OBD2 port, they are essential on these cars and it will pay for itself very quickly in time and money saved paying for others to troubleshoot codes and CELs.

 

Just to clarify ,? your measuring the barrel diameter and not the rim or flange bit
It should be a exact science so not sure how your numbers are so off

 

I used two methods of measuring. First I used a cloth measuring tape and wrapped it around the pulley(not on the flange). I also used a piece of tape wrapped around it and marked where the ends meet and removed it and measured the length. I got 495mm both ways. Using the formula D = C/3.14159(Pi) I get 157.56mm

 

My experience with detecting ECM flashes is the same as what OzXFR posted above. That code appears and I can't clear it with anything I have including SDD. Even returning the car to stock still leaves this clue. Lot's of discussion about whether dealers look for this and could possibly refuse service but no evidence. When I was under factory warranty with my tuned 2014 XJR it was serviced by the dealer a time or two and nothing was said or done to the car?

I have been told it is possible to remove it for good using other ways. I never followed up on that as it does not seem to important to anything?
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