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No, that does not mean it's working -- it means your cheap Ebay replacement part may be the problem. Unplug it, clear the codes, and then rescan to see if you still get the same B1412-87 error. If it goes away, buy a genuine part (C2Z16597) or get a used one from a salvage yard.
That makes sense. Replacing this part was actually my first step, so I was quite surprised it didn’t resolve the issue. I’ll order an OEM replacement as soon as possible and see if that fixes it.
I also disconnected the cable, and after about 10 minutes with the car shut off, the warning triangle disappeared. Battery voltage seems stable (so far, 1h). That definitely helps narrow it down. At this point, I see three possible causes:
The negative terminal clamp/sensor
The cable itself
The BMS module
I traced the cable and didn’t notice anything loose. However, it appears to run through a large portion of the car and behind multiple trim panels, which would require significant disassembly to fully inspect. It would be surprising if the cable were the root cause, so my suspicion is currently on the aftermarket negative terminal clamp I purchased on eBay. Thanks for pointing this out!
What I was trying to convey earlier is that EVERY component on the LIN 1 bus is connected to the SAME white wire for transmitting data . You can see it on the video you posted of the battery connector. You'll also find that white wire going to the Quiescent Relay Box, the body control module, and every other devices on the LIN 1 bus. That's the wire you need to scrutinize first if the Ebay part isn't the problem.
It appears that the QCCM and the BMS have a private LIN network all to themselves. The Gateway Module (GWM) is the master.
No, that does not mean it's working -- it means your cheap Ebay replacement part may be the problem. Unplug it, clear the codes, and then rescan to see if you still get the same B1412-87 error. If it goes away, buy a genuine part (C2Z16597) or get a used one from a salvage yard. Every Jaguar model since 2013 has been using that same part so it doesn't have to come from an F-Type. In fact, it's probably used in every Land Rover model since 2013 as well.
What I was trying to convey earlier is that EVERY component on the LIN 1 bus is connected to the SAME white wire for transmitting data . You can see it on the video you posted of the battery connector. You'll also find that white wire going to the Quiescent Relay Box, the body control module, and every other devices on the LIN 1 bus. That's the wire you need to scrutinize first if the Ebay part isn't the problem.
What great feedback.
And C2Z16597 is only around US$83.00 for the original part.
Best of luck to the OP. I hope replacing that part does the trick.
@gitbrutus you are getting close to the solution! You can drive with the BMS disconnected from the negative terminal (clicking stops) until you get the new part. You may get this message but ignore and clear it using the steering wheel controls:
Update: I reset the BMS and registered the battery. No change. The hazard light is still on (30 minutes after shutdown), the clicking near the battery continues, and the battery is still draining.
However, looks like DJS is on to something:
I just ran a deeper diagnostic and guess what I found as permanent error code... B1412-87 - Quiescent Relay Box (under Gateway module).
From what I understand, the “-87” usually means a missing message, so the Gateway isn’t properly communicating with the Quiescent Relay Box. That would make a lot of sense. It’s probably why I’m hearing the clicking sound, why the car never fully goes to sleep, and why the battery keeps draining. This really feels like the root cause!
Question is now whether I have to replace that part, and if so, if I can do this myself or if I need specialist software to register/connect it properly.
Please let me know your thoughts (or if you could find this other post).
I have the exact same message on my 2024 R for some reason, but with a different code:
Thanks, I didn't research what other devices are actually on LIN 1 but that would definitely simplify things if he needed to track down the offending wire or component. I'm 99% sure it's simply a defective aftermarket part and all of his problems will go away once it's replaced with a new or used genuine part. It was simply too coincidental that the problem started after he replaced that broken component. I've learned the hard way to NEVER buy cheap aftermarket electronics and sensors. It's a crap shoot if they'll work from the start and even if they do, they often fail in weeks or months. Unfortunately you can't even trust what appears to be OEM parts from questionable sources any longer since Chinese companies have gotten really good a counterfeiting not only parts, but packaging. Companies, such as NGK, even have put up websites warning customers and showing them how to identify counterfeit parts from genuine one and the differences both the parts and packaging are extremely subtle.
Thanks everyone for your input. I found a used battery negative cable with harness, but it's for Land Rover and has a different part number. Would this work on the F-Type? Part looks identical and obviously same manufacturer.
Jaguar-specific OEM, I could only find the negative terminal without the harness.
Thanks everyone for your input. I found a used battery negative cable with harness, but it's for Land Rover and has a different part number. Would this work on the F-Type? Part looks identical and obviously same manufacturer.
Jaguar-specific OEM, I could only find the negative terminal without the harness.
The Ebay listing says the part numbers are LR052405 and LR038721. LR052405 is the negative battery cable and LR038721 is the terminal end with the sensor which is the part you need (Land Rover part number LR038721 cross references to Jaguar part number C2Z16597). I think you're misinterpreting the word "harness" in the listing. It's not the sensor harness if that's what you were thinking you were going to get, it's just the negative battery cable which bolts to the floor which you clearly don't need.
It was the cheap aftermarket negative terminal connector from eBay causing all the chaos.
I originally wanted to grab a used OEM, but delivery was almost a week out. So I ordered a higher-quality aftermarket one from Amazon — arrived next day. Honestly didn’t expect it to fix everything… but hey, free returns, so why not? And guess what: it worked. 100%.
For anyone who runs into this nightmare in the future, here’s exactly what I did (maybe overkill, but this worked perfectly for me):
Turn the car completely off and remove the old C2Z16597 from the negative battery terminal.
Plug/attach the connector and grounding cable into the new C2Z16597 before mounting it.
Install the new connector onto the battery’s negative terminal.
Clear all fault codes (I used iCarsoft).
Perform BMS reset + battery registration with iCarsoft.
Lock the car twice and walk away for 15 minutes.
Result: No more clicking. Hazard light off. No more battery drain.
Battery was at 12.7V, drove 30 minutes, let it sit overnight… still 12.7V the next morning. Problem solved. 💪
Hope this summary saves someone else hours of stress.
It was the cheap aftermarket negative terminal connector from eBay causing all the chaos.
I originally wanted to grab a used OEM, but delivery was almost a week out. So I ordered a higher-quality aftermarket one from Amazon — arrived next day. Honestly didn’t expect it to fix everything… but hey, free returns, so why not? And guess what: it worked. 100%.
For anyone who runs into this nightmare in the future, here’s exactly what I did (maybe overkill, but this worked perfectly for me):
Turn the car completely off and remove the old C2Z16597 from the negative battery terminal.
Plug/attach the connector and grounding cable into the new C2Z16597 before mounting it.
Install the new connector onto the battery’s negative terminal.
Clear all fault codes (I used iCarsoft).
Perform BMS reset + battery registration with iCarsoft.
Lock the car twice and walk away for 15 minutes.
Result: No more clicking. Hazard light off. No more battery drain.
Battery was at 12.7V, drove 30 minutes, let it sit overnight… still 12.7V the next morning. Problem solved. 💪
Hope this summary saves someone else hours of stress.
What a relief, congratulations!
And thank you for coming back and documenting the solution!
