That’s the plan Borbor, I’ve ordered some Audison tweeters and mid-rang drivers and Focal woofers. The Dynamatting is done, so once they speakers arrive and I install them, I’ll see if I need to add a sub. By the sound of things, the boot’s the way to go. I did see that a Cambridge company had installed one in a custome enclosure that sits in the boot recess in the floor. It looked good, has anyone else gone down this route?

 

Quick question - pulled everything apart to get to the subwoofers and having a bit of a time getting it back together. Both panels in front of the subwoofers in-place, but the top piece "parcel shelf" doesn't want to seat nicely against the back. Passenger side is, but driver's side is not cooperating. Any tips/tricks on getting this piece properly back in place?

 

It’s a sliding action, with everything lined up just right and then shoved rear wards into place.

 

Just pull out the shelf and look at the locating tabs at either end . It is pretty obviously how it lines up after that. Should not need to force it at all. Finger pressure will be enough to lock it back into place . Also try to creep both sides in at the same time by half a centimetre at a time to keep it going on parallel so pull back on the side you have got in so far as you may have skewed it.

 

I had a similar issue. I broke one of the orange plastic tabs and once I gave the car a blood sacrifice, it finally allowed everything back (I got a friend to help align everything after scraping my knuckles).

 

Thank you - got it in there, just needed a bit more patience/fiddling. Also managed to break the orange clip near the driver's side door, excellent. It hold together but not ideal - anyone know where I can buy more?

So I took the cheap and 'easy' route, just added a Kicker 8" Hideaway compact sub in the trunk. I'm no audiophile since I developed mild tinitus, but I still appreciate a good car stereo with a nice solid low-end... something our cars seem to be missing.

Looking at the sub setup, as you all know, the problem is there is really no enclosure at all. You're not going to get good low-end frequency response, and I'm sure folks turn the bass way up to compensate. That leads to excess response in the frequencies the drivers *can* produce, and probably over-excursion which will cause the drivers to rattle and eventually burn the motors out (doesn't help there isn't any resistance on the driver itself as it's not in an enclosure). I think there was some sort of factory update as well - probably some heavy EQing to flatten things out a bit.

My thought was to tune those drivers to what they can produce, and add something that can actually take care of things below 100hz - the thing is actually pretty impressive for how small the enclosure actually is, nothing crazy but just enough to round out the bottom end.

Makes a huge difference and really enhances the overall audio quality of the otherwise stock system. Not the most amazing thing ever but it's pretty good now, and I'm happy without too much swearing

 

Same thing happened to me with the clips - I bought these and they work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333132632820

 

Thank you for this thread, it’s still helping people, I assure you. It helped me right now. I was trying to figure out how to go about working with that existing 6” subwoofer bracket behind the seats and you gave me idea. I bought 2-10” kicker shallow comp RT subs 3.7” mounting depth and am putting them in small boxes behind the seats, to an 800 watt monoblock.
replaced the mid bass 8s in the doors as well. Even if you don’t get an amp and just do drop in swaps using the meridians power, you will appreciate the difference. Honestly the meridians just has such weak bass, mid to low is almost nonexistent IMO.

But if you just do some drop isn’t for the 6s in the back and the 8s in the door then run an amp solely for some subs in a custom enclosure, it’s gold. And it won’t break the bank.

 

@B15hop Nice resurrection of an old thread.

Small boxes behind the seats? Pictures please. If you never have a passenger I suppose you could do it behind the passenger seat, and if you are short then the driver's seat could work. I don't think it would look or sound very appealing. There is NO room under the seats.

Best idea is to cut out the OEM SW (as in post #7 above: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...9/#post2214727) from the bracket and mount a proper 6 or 8 inch aftermarket SW in its place. I have dual Audison 8 inch SWs mounted in the OEM bracket in an infinite baffle configuration. There is no way to seal that area easily. There is a lot of resonance into the rear with this setup so rattles will have to be sought out and eliminated individually.

 

IMHHEO, if I had it to do over again, I'd look at doing a front sub in the passenger footwell.

For now, I'm happy with a big vented box in the way-back with a great musical 12" sub playing 100hz -30hz. The two GS8ND-2's in the OE sub locations, isolated from the trim bits with a cocoon of sound deadener, playing 100hz-50hz, blending in with individual driver level and time alignment, which can only be done with a DSP added to the system. And the MW9's in the doors playing down to 100hz.

Is the existing Jag amp OK? Yeah but, it's the existing tune coming out of the Jag amp that is the real problem. Again, the solution is an aftermarket DSP. I know for a fact the AudioControl DSP plus LGD's won't make the Jag amp happy and the Helix DSP won't make the Jag amp unhappy.

 

If you are using the Jag amp what line out are you using to your monoblock amp supplying the SW?

The Jag amp has 2 dedicated outputs to each SW that roll off quickly as you increase the volume on the head unit. Many feel JLR did this to stop customers from booking service appointments to fix rear deck rattles from the SWs, which makes twisted sense...

Not much space in the front footwell unless you drive alone. If you do have a passenger you could place a small powered box like an Infinity Basslink Mini just in front of the seat and under the passenger's knees.

 

The Jag amp's SW channels are not musical and I don't use them.

I use the door's three left and right inputs. I do not have them summed. I use the door's midbass channels as inputs to the DSP that then outputs via two of the P Six Ultimate's channels to the door's MW9's, via the AudioFrog A150.4D, bridged, to the rear GS8ND2's and via the Alpine PDX-M12 to the way-back's GB12.

I agree there is not much room in the footwell. But I think it could be done by glassing in the footwell with an MDO baffle and probably a Morel Ultimo Powerslim sub. Might be my winter project, just for giggles.

 

@Robtrt8 Keep us updated on the footwell project - sounds promising! Have you ever considered a mObridge unit to get a pure digital Toslink input signal from your headunit to your Helix?

@B15hop Can you post some pictures of your behind seat SW install?

 

My 2016 has Digital Ethernet unfortunately. If it had MOST I would have gone with mObridge in a heartbeat and the whole project may have been very different. Yes, I know about the Chinese DED some have tried but I'm not the guy that puts anything from Alibaba in my car.

 

Wow - I didn't realize JLR used ethernet back in 2016.

 

Does anyone have advice for getting the rear speakers out of a '16 R Convertible? I got a trim kit and I can't seem to get the clips to release with the tools. Do I just pull straight out? I'm trying to do the TCU battery so need to take the rear speakers out to get to the bolts for the "T" piece.

 

I don't know which model you have but in my MY!8 coupe the TCU battery is easily accessible between and behind the seats - no speaker removal necessary.

 

It's a lot more complex on the convertible, I finally got it out. You have to take off the sub covers with a trim kit to get the bolts holding the roll bar in, then pull the seatbelt cover and the T piece off to get into to the console. My TCU also has a metal bar going right over the battery cover. I broke the clips on the roll bar covers in the process. Giant PITA.

 

Does anyone have thoughts on why the stock rear woofers are dual voice coil drivers?

I’m guessing it is to support the terrible surround DSP modes?

 

While I’m at it, does anyone know what these cutouts in the rear panel are for? Are these useful to access something behind the panel? It seems like these openings would degrade the response of the rear drivers.