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Kathomas13, I am about to began and place orders for everything speakers, tape etc. I have concerns about the sub that I am trying to clear up. Did the Skar Sub line up to the existing bracket. Thank you
Here is some pics of the Sakar speakers after I cut the mold
Originally Posted by Jonathan Hogue
Kathomas13, I am about to began and place orders for everything speakers, tape etc. I have concerns about the sub that I am trying to clear up. Did the Skar Sub line up to the existing bracket. Thank you
the Sakar speaker will fit I. The bracket but you do have to cut a mold in order for them to fit. I followed they other guy in this thread n bought two pieces of 12x12 plexiglass from eBay n after cutting the old speaker out traces a circle of the inner speaker Tackett n then used a jig saw to cut the mold out
worked perfect but did take a little get it to fit in the original bracket
here is the plexus glass I got from Amazon
SimbaLux Acrylic Sheet Clear Cast Plexiglass 12” x 12” Square Panel 3/8” Thick (10mm) Transparent Plastic Plexi Glass Board
after I did make them old, are you small self tappers to screwed it on the side of the original speaker bracket
Last edited by Kathomas13; Feb 4, 2023 at 09:26 AM.
Reason: Added pics
Care to share what you upgraded to...and your thoughts?...Cheers...
All I did was speaker upgrade I have the 770wr Harmon kardin n that’s plenty loud for me. I did all doors speaker with the direct fit replacement n Samara in the rear.
here all the part numbers n cost from Land Rover
the one listed for 1 speaker is the big subwoofer. I only had to order one because I got a new one on eBay for 100bucks
see pic
The song is amazing with these speakers I wasn’t able before to turn it past 24 on the volume without thought a bunch of rattling.n distortion. Now I can turn it up to 40 n ground is amazing.
I didn’t end up removing the rear speaker grills because they were rattling. The skar speaker really sound 10 times better
Care to share what you upgraded to...and your thoughts?...Cheers...
780 system. absolutely, I plan on doing the interior upgrade to the meridian Kevlar with sound dampen install. Then next doing the upgrade to the rear subwoofers using SKAR subs and disconnecting the stock amplifier and using a separate amplifier. I’m a bit perplexed by the rears. Should I use stock amplifier at 2 ohm basically giving the rear subs a modest upgrade in performance. Or connect 2, 2ohm load subs which I believe is 1 ohm load to an amp, or use 2, 4ohm subs that eliminates the use of stock amplifier and presents a 2 or 4 ohm load. next is trying to understand the existing mount and modifying. I have little experience with plexiglass, and cutting would be a project. I have also read in the forum about a 6.5 adapter that’s on Amazon. My confusion is would the sound suffer or improve by disconnecting the rear subs from stock and using an amplifier. I don’t mind spending more on subs to get a better fit. Any help there might would be appreciated.
Can you provide the part number for the Skar subwoofer. Searched but not finding it or which post number has it? Do you have a photo of the acrylic cutout?Thank you.
I would recommend 7" subs instead of the Skar ones so you don't have to make a custom bracket/cutout. You want the outside diameter to be about 7.25 inches so there's a bit of overlap to mount the speaker onto the stock bracket. I would also recommend placing a ring of sound dampening material between the speaker surround and the stock bracket to eliminate rattles. I had to remove one and do this which was a pain after installing.
Last edited by takeapieandrun; Feb 10, 2023 at 01:53 AM.
I would recommend 7" subs instead of the Skar ones so you don't have to make a custom bracket/cutout. You want the outside diameter to be about 7.25 inches so there's a bit of overlap to mount the speaker onto the stock bracket. I would also recommend placing a ring of sound dampening material between the speaker surround and the stock bracket to eliminate rattles. I had to remove one and do this which was a pain after installing.
I didn’t purchase the skar subs, the model was listed in the forum and is on Amazon the 6.5 sub 2ohm. I will instead try and take the 7.5 route and find a sub to avoid modifying. I was able to purchase door speakers on eBay. Was there a sub recommended, I’m also debating if I can use the existing amplifier to power.
I would recommend 7" subs instead of the Skar ones so you don't have to make a custom bracket/cutout. You want the outside diameter to be about 7.25 inches so there's a bit of overlap to mount the speaker onto the stock bracket. I would also recommend placing a ring of sound dampening material between the speaker surround and the stock bracket to eliminate rattles. I had to remove one and do this which was a pain after installing.
Did you use the ones listed in your signature? If so, what is involved in rewire?
Can you provide the part number for the Skar subwoofer. Searched but not finding it or which post number has it? Do you have a photo of the acrylic cutout?Thank you.
Skar Audio EVL-65 D2 6.5" 400 Watt Max Power Dual 2 Ohm Car Subwoofer https://a.co/d/3il2JCa
Scosche Select 1988 to 2019 Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep or Plymouth 6.5” - 6.75” Speaker Adapter (1 Pair) SAC656 https://a.co/d/7s65JUS
I would recommend 7" subs instead of the Skar ones so you don't have to make a custom bracket/cutout. You want the outside diameter to be about 7.25 inches so there's a bit of overlap to mount the speaker onto the stock bracket. I would also recommend placing a ring of sound dampening material between the speaker surround and the stock bracket to eliminate rattles. I had to remove one and do this which was a pain after installing.
Looks like you installed the Aurum Cantus subs and replaced the amp?
Cancel this question; I found and read your detailed post on your solution. Thanks.
Yes, I detailed everything earlier in the thread! The 7 inch subs dropped into the frames great, just have to put some kind of seal between them and the frames to avoid vibrations and make sure it is airtight.
the Sakar speaker will fit I. The bracket but you do have to cut a mold in order for them to fit. I followed they other guy in this thread n bought two pieces of 12x12 plexiglass from eBay n after cutting the old speaker out traces a circle of the inner speaker Tackett n then used a jig saw to cut the mold out
worked perfect but did take a little get it to fit in the original bracket
here is the plexus glass I got from Amazon
SimbaLux Acrylic Sheet Clear Cast Plexiglass 12” x 12” Square Panel 3/8” Thick (10mm) Transparent Plastic Plexi Glass Board
after I did make them old, are you small self tappers to screwed it on the side of the original speaker bracket
my brackets arrived today, looking at your picture did you place the bracket behind or infront. Then tap the original bracket and speaker frame?
I have completed all upgrades to signature red sticker meridian, sound dampen everything !!! Installed amp kicker 400.1 and ran the skar subs at 2 ohm- by tapping into side woofer and using l2 in line converter. I tried to use mdf but didn’t like the quality and support. Also I noticed it stuck out a bit too far.
.
Teammates,
This thread has been amazing. I am no professional installer but I stayed at a Holiday Inn sometime last year. I have done a custom set up in my previous car that was extremely easy (2000 BMW M Roadster).
I think I have a plan for my 2015 S Convertible:
Phase 1 software update
Phase 2 Dynamat and replace front speakers with Cambo's recommended set
Phase 3 Divert signal from front mid bass to one or two channel sub amp and into 2 x Wavecor SW182BD03 7" Balanced Drive Black Aluminum Cone Subwoofer 4 Ohm
I don't really understand the ohm/impedence or the hertz discussions that well. I am after a recommendation on a sub amp and how to wire (take one signal into one channel amp then drive 2 subs or take L and R signal into a 2 channel amp then into two sub drivers)
What would be a good set of amp specifications to look for to drive the Wavecor subs? Or just recommend a sub amp.
Grade my paper and let me know what you think!
Thanks!
I have the 380w system. I have swapped all the door speakers for the high end signature ones and like everyone there was an improvement but always thought there was a slight hole in the sound. Today I swapped back in the cheap original 200m woofers and was pleasantly surprised that it actually sounded much better with better punch in the system now. This may not apply to the 770w system but for the base system I actually think just doing the tweeter and mid would be the way to go. The 4ohm signature woofers just don’t get enough juice from the small amp to be able to shine.
I have the 380w system. I have swapped all the door speakers for the high end signature ones and like everyone there was an improvement but always thought there was a slight hole in the sound. Today I swapped back in the cheap original 200m woofers and was pleasantly surprised that it actually sounded much better with better punch in the system now. This may not apply to the 770w system but for the base system I actually think just doing the tweeter and mid would be the way to go. The 4ohm signature woofers just don’t get enough juice from the small amp to be able to shine.
This is because the original drivers have been tuned in the 380 amps dsp. That tune does not apply to the signature drivers and will not sound as good as the original speakers with the 380 amp dsp.
