Hi Group...

After finding a variety of information on the web, forums, and manuals (some of which is conflicting) about our transmissions. And noted that some of the information is on similar transmissions, but not identical, I decided to pull it all together into a relatively concise DIY.

I recently have done a ton of mods, but most recently was the TCM (Transmission) tune from Velocity AP. Given the additional power I have been adding to the car, I recognize the need for an enhanced service and maintenance schedule as well...So decided to replace the fluid in the ZF 8 Spd at ~ 25K miles. It was definitely not a waste, as the fluid was already a bit dark, and is good preventative maintenance. Also changed the Transfer Case Fluid, which looked about the same (I may do a DIY on that as well?).

The process is pretty involved and tedious, but not really difficult. Some pieces to gain access are a pain to get to or remove, but I have found that to be the case with everything I have touched on these Jaguars.

So, at any rate, if anyone is looking to DIY your transmission fluid, this link should walk you through it with pictures to help. And I have seen quotes (online) that I have not verified of ~$1500 USD for this service?

Enjoy the DIY, and good luck if you try it.

DC

LINK TO MY DIY HERE

 

As always excellent DIY doc, Thanks!

 

Thanks! Glad it is done

DC

 

Great write up and easy to see what you have done. By plugging in the OBII reader, did that screw up your charging system to where you had to disconnect the battery? ( I keep reading about this in other post ).
The only problem I see is getting a reader capable of reading the transmission temperature. I can't understand why these cars have to be so darn sophisticated. Should be just fill and go!! Thanks again for posting and helping out fellow enthusiast. I'll be looking to do this in a year or two (Maybe!)

 

I asked my dealer to change the transmission fluid (along with diff fluid, brakes, S/C snout...) They said they generally don’t do that unless there’s an issue, so I didn’t press the issue (or get a quote.) But I have a few years before I get near ZF’s 160,000km recommendation.

 

Hi there. I used the HPTuner ODBII Tool (What was used to tune my transmission) with the scan feature on Windows 10, and no battery reset required. There are tons of options though. Easiest/cheapest is to buy a $5-10 Bluetooth OBDII Dongle (on eBay) and use the Torque app (I have it for Android) on your phone. It will read most PIDs also. It is really pretty simple/straight forward.

I am pretty sure most generic devices will not close down the session on the Jaguar system, but it is very easy to reset...Just briefly disconnect the ground on the hatch/trunk floor and re-connect and it is done.

Take care,
DC

 

Yes...Whatever works. To be clear, ZF recommends 80-120K KM interval, or 8 years (Under normal driving)...Hotter climates, harder driving, etc., will shorten fluid life and require more frequent maintenance. I posted their schedule in my DIY as well. So on your 2014, you would be looking at the longest interval to be doing it in 2022, if you want to follow their schedule.

DC

 

Thanks for that - exactly what I read earlier this year, apparently without comprehension.

 

The problem with some JLR dealers is they get informed by Jaguar, who like many car manufacturers repeat the lifetime fill nonsense.

I believe that ZF who design and manufactured the transmission are a more authoritative source of information.

ZF state they use semi synthetic oil and that many trips at high speed or sporty driving can lead to oil ageing faster due to high temperatures.

Their service information guide in 2016 stated " Depending on the driving style ZF recommends a transmission oil change every 80,000 to 100,000 Km or after eight years at the latest "
(50,000 to 62,000 miles)

The 2020 service information surprisingly omits the oil change recommendation.

 

Thanks Rock, this will be very useful for many of us.

 

Not if they read the service schedule - for my MY18 it's specified at 9 years (144,000 miles!). I suspect most dealers don't want to do it as it's a bit of a faff, and they like things to be simple and easy (and very profitable).

 

Excellent job DC, thank you for sharing.
If you wouldn’t mind, how much was the replacement pan/ filter and fluid and did you purchase them from a Jag dealer?
Thanks
MM

 

Sure...My pleasure. I probably should have put more of that in my document...And since it is linked I can update it!

But I will put it here...Not that anyone has to do what I did...

I found the 7 liters of ZF Lifeguard 8 Fluid on eBay from an Auto business in Chicago for ~$19/Qt, which is a great price (I also found some for ~$78/Qt...no kidding...so shop around). As I researched I am pretty certain other fluids may work. BMW makes one (STEEP), and I think there is a suitable AMSOIL, and MEYLE, I just stuck with ZF SPEC OEM. to be safe

As you may know, the OEM pan has an integrated filter. There are plenty suitable out there, and some very cheap on eBay and elsewhere. I ended up using the DORMAN pan from RockAuto. It was about ~$101.00, but it has a removable filter, so next change, you do not have to waste an entire, perfectly good pan...you can just buy the filter for ~ $35. This pan also comes with all new bolts! Part# is 265-853.

Total for Fluid with shipping (3 day) was ~$145, and Pan with shipping was $113. So the total cost was $258.00. And I made a fluid pump for less than $20 with a garden sprayer ...it worked great. Of course, I pimped it out with a pressure gauge and Airchuck nozzle for ease.

Hope that helps...
DC

 

Perfect, thank you sir.

 

Fantastic writeup and thanks for all the links on where to find materials!

 

Nice write up. I see why the dealer can charge so much. A real headache if you dont have a lift. Ill think about this one real good before I take it in.

 

👍

 

Wow - what great step by step instructions with excellent photos! Many thanks Therock88!

 

Thanks so much for the guide and congratulations on doing it so well! However, by doing this, some of the oil will remain in the torque converter. Isn't it necessary to wash the gearbox with a special machine?

 

No...assuming that you mean the flush that many shops promote.

If you do regular fluid changes, the new fluid will protect the innards and there will be no chance of clogging or issues caused by flushing. Just reduce the time/mileage between ATF replacement.