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Considering I couldn't get CCW to sell me some wheels, I went back to Jason Tung from GetYourWheels.com - I had been talking to him since April and he's been super helpful, good prices, great communication. I'd go back in a heartbeat.
I ended up going with Rohana CFX5 wheels in matte black and I love them. Factor in the price and I really LOVE them and I even picked up a matching pair of 19's for the track
And I swear I could fit a set of 20x12's out back...I may try that in the Spring for kicks
Details:
old drag radials on 19x9.5: 64.42 lbs each with a 305/35/19 tire
new drag radials on 19x11: 60.39 lbs each with 325/30/19 tire
I bought the Savinis for my XF from those guys, price was decent. Great look with the firesand! I think they also have at least one other internet name. Have you noticed a difference in driving feel/handling with less unsprung weight? Also, can you provide details on the cool scale your using?
Also, is that tar collected just below the rear fog light?
Gregg - haha! Sorry man, I'm stashing those OEM's away for now. But there's some really cool stuff out there for relatively little money.
Jaguny - Thanks brotha, yeah, I'm really happy with the look against the firesand. Eh, my butt dyno says the car feels a bit snappier - like it wants to get going more quickly. But, I'm looking to get to Atco on Friday the 14th to make some passes. The wheels are my only change since last passes - so it'll be a great indicator of any gains from losing weight.
As for the stuff on the rear of the car....that's rubber from the drag strip
After the first track day with my car, my rims had clumps of rubber stuck to the inside from other people's track tires. The hunks that were stuck in my treads came off pretty quickly. Guess that's normal, but I can see why track tires don't last very long.
Now that I've put about 5k on my car, I understand some of comments about the car feeling heavy. I haven't tracked the car, but I am always pleasantly surprised that when I push the car into a tight corner, the impression is that it will understeer (awd), but ultimately it makes the turn smoothly, and flat. Maybe this is just me getting used to the cars handling characteristics. I am curious if less unsprung weight would give the car a more nimble feel in these cornering maneuvers?
Now that I've put about 5k on my car, I understand some of comments about the car feeling heavy. I haven't tracked the car, but I am always pleasantly surprised that when I push the car into a tight corner, the impression is that it will understeer (awd), but ultimately it makes the turn smoothly, and flat. Maybe this is just me getting used to the cars handling characteristics. I am curious if less unsprung weight would give the car a more nimble feel in these cornering maneuvers?
Lizard - thanks man! Yours look killer too, I think that style really works on the M cars.
Those pic are all on stock suspension, but it's at the shop right now getting the Velocity .75" lowering springs on
amr42 - Jason at GetYourWheels.com threw them in when I got the whole setup.
akc70 - no kidding, right? I've hated those things since day 1...who ok'd red calipers to leave the factory on that color combo.
Lizard - thanks man! Yours look killer too, I think that style really works on the M cars.
Those pic are all on stock suspension, but it's at the shop right now getting the Velocity .75" lowering springs on
amr42 - Jason at GetYourWheels.com threw them in when I got the whole setup.
akc70 - no kidding, right? I've hated those things since day 1...who ok'd red calipers to leave the factory on that color combo.
Really easy to repaint the calipers yourself, I've done it dozens of times using a simple rattle can of enamel caliper paint. I reckon gloss black would look the best on your car. No need to even remove the calipers from the car, just spray them in place after masking off the parts of the rotors near the calipers, then clean up any overspray with a soft rag and turps. Clean the calipers first (degreaser or turps), two light coats of caliper paint (leave for 20 minutes between coats), then you can add caliper decals and/or clear coat if you choose. I have usually added decals then clear coated over the top, but you should allow the caliper paint to dry for at least 24 hours before applying the decals, and the clear must be the exact same type (and preferably brand) as the caliper paint, otherwise you risk the clear dissolving the base and running all over your nice new decals (don't ask me how I know this!).
No problem, happy to help. And that was basically my motivation for these too - for the price, I couldn't beat them. I wasn't willing to pay the $$ for those amazing HRE's and I almost begged CCW to make me wheels and they couldn't care less...
10-05-2016, 11:29 PM
Finally got some new wheels on the car
