Still, I was pleased to see BMW change its long-time recommended condition-based oil change intervals from 15K mi/24 mos to 10K mi/12 mos for 2014 models and beyond, notwithstanding the more common use these days of synthetic/hybrid conventional oils.

 

Isn't 20/weight oil too thin. My previous car, BMW M5 had 60 weight oil by Castrol. It was the TWS Race oil. So, why only 20 weight oil for the S/C Jag motor.

 

Because Jaguar says so...

 

You're looking at the issue the wrong way. 60 weight is way too thick for properly designed and cooled engines.

 

A great question, and one in which I've been kicking around for some time.

As I sense you already know, much goes into a manuf's oil recommendation, including engine design type (tighter clearances for one), intended and anticipated operating parameters, protective capabilities, EPA/CAFE ratings, warranty requirements, etc. While BMW did use 60W in the M5 (and M3 too), most manuf's today have gone to lighter weights, many using the 20W.

OTOH, many OEM performance manuf's still use heavier weights like 40W (Ferrari, Porsche, Nissan (GT-R) and VW (GTI) come to mind). I still think 20W is too lightweight, especially if I were to track my R in summer heat, where I would definitely go heavier. But for now, if it keeps the warranty gods happy, I can accept that. (Candidly, the only way I would ever be satisfied on this 20W thing would be to rip apart a 20W motor and scope out its bearings, clearances, etc. after subjecting it to hard use. Or at least check one out that had.)

 

There's at least one generation of Jags that have lived long and happy lives well into their golden years on xW20 oils. No wear or failure patterns attributable to modern oil viscosities.

 

I believe you, Mikey! In hindsight, I can see how my commentary was slanted more towards whether a 20W motor might see track or drag strip duty--the former of which I would like to think my R is able to handle. That said, I certainly have nothing to bank on regarding whether 20W is fit for track use other than my own unscientific opinion of doubt, especially after tearing down a few blown motors, all of which used heavier weight oils.

 

But from a common sense point of view, 20 weight seems wayyyy to light. Especially for a high performance motor.

 

Agree, Ubad2. It's kinda like one of those things you feel. You may not know exactly why you feel that way, and you know you can't really prove anything by it, but the feeling persists anyway. Oh, well. Hopefully, the spec'd SAE 20W oil I use comes closer to a SAE 30W range oil.

 

I used to have the same thoughts, but I've come to terms with the notion that as technology marches on, synthetic oils and various additives have gotten better and better at protecting modern engine, internal moving parts. More sophisticated technology has also made today's engines work more efficiently, with less friction and wear. Another major driver for manufacturers is the mandate for ever increasing fuel economy, which lighter weight oils help them achieve.

There's no question that modern gasoline engines are lasting longer and longer. When I first started driving, many engines were billowing blue smoke and lucky to make 100K miles, while running much heavier weight oils. Today, gasoline engine longevity has doubled or tripled, and oil consumption has steadily decreased even with the lighter weight oils.

 

Don't disagree. For the most part, I am a fan of new tech wherever it pops up. The advent of synthetics, torque-to-yield and improved materials have made huge differences in output and longevity. Digging down, I see my resistance comes from knowing that power-adders and 500+ outputs used to enjoy looser bearing clearances to better manage heat and accommodate crankshaft flex and bore distortion. My sticking with the tried and true standard of the day, 30W oil, during builds didn't help either. (Hard to believe (now) that I sometimes reused crank and head bolts.)

In the end, I'm getting more comfortable with factory fills. Thanks for your thoughts, Foosh. I value your opinion.

 

This has been a topic on forums for every car that I've owned recently. There are those who swear by Mobil 1, or Castrol Euro Formula, or Royal Purple, etc. and argue about which oil is best. For my part, I had an MR2 that always used 10W30 (Toyota's recommended weight) changed regularly and sold the car with 188k and never ever used a drop of oil. Maybe Mobil 1 is good for 300k and Castrol is good for 350k. Who knows? I'd be so tired of a car by then I'd put a bullet in my head if I still had to drive it.

So for me, I'll let the dealer change the oil with Jag's recommended type and weight while it's under warranty and rest easy knowing that the engine will likely outlive me.

 

Precisely!

 

Dropped off my personal F Type today to get its second oil change with 11xxx miles on the clock. Excited to see what the oil analysis will turn up compared to the first one. Taking the company manual F-Type S for the weekend in the mean time.

 

Wow, just like me. Today I took my personal F-Type to work and tomorrow I'll take...eh...my personal F-Type on some errands. We should all have companies with a fleet of F-Types. I can see it now;

Forbes Best Places To Work 2016:
All employees besides fabulous working conditions - including an in-house Executive Chef (serving specialities such as BLT's with shaved truffle) - have full use of the company's fleet of Jaguar F-Types...base, V6, V6S, R and their newly acquired Project 7. CEO Zachary G is quoted, underneath his Project 7 helmet, as saying, "why should I have all the fun?". He concludes, "happy employees - and driving any of the F-Types puts a huge smile on my people - make productive people".

Sign me up!

 

Where do I submit my resume?

 

F-Types and Range Rovers share the same power plants and have the same intervals.

I have my. Oil changed every 6 months at the Dealer, this will also apply to the F-Type.

I always have it done at the Dealer because then it's on record, no disputes in the unlikely event of a catastrophic failure.

A few years ago my wife's car suffered such an event and needed a new engine under warranty, the field Reps came out to OK the $17k bill. They took an Oil sample and checked the Dealer Service records and gave them the OK to replace the engine.

That right there is why I stick to what I do. It's peace of mind with no hassle.

 

Ditto, and the one and only reason I take a car under warranty back to the dealer for routine services I could easily do myself is to have everything documented. That's the best insurance that there will never be a warranty dispute when faced with a major failure.

I've now had two engines replaced under warranty (2006 C6 Z06 and 2002 BMW 740i). In both cases, they were immediate approvals because both cars had dealer records proving service recs were followed to the letter.

 

Nowhere can I find where the regular maintenance intervals are specified. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I have myself already changed the (OEM) oil/filter once but want to ensure that the dealer is keeping track of the scheduled events (especially since it's free)

Dealer says the notification will appear on the dashboard at the appropriate time. Well, that doesn't give me an opportunity for advanced planning.

 

Well, on the Range Rover, same motors, Oil change at 15k miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. But best to call your dealer to confirm.