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Eventually I would like to experiment with pulling the fuse on my 2024 R to keep the exhaust valves open all the time ( I don't receive the car for another couple months). Fuse 15 I believe from reading on here?
In any case, someone recently mentioned to me in passing that there is some sort of wireless remote controlled replacement fuse that I could put in place of the stock fuse 15, and then I could use the involved provided remote to enable and disable the fuse whenever I want...i.e.: Vice pulling fuse 15 entirely and always having the valves wide open...
Is anyone aware of where I might find such a product? Anyone doing this with their F-type or another vehicle?
Such a product sounds pretty appealing to me. My googling skills must not be very good.
In any case, someone recently mentioned to me in passing that there is some sort of wireless remote controlled replacement fuse that I could put in place of the stock fuse 15, and then I could use the involved provided remote to enable and disable the fuse whenever I want...i.e.: Vice pulling fuse 15 entirely and always having the valves wide open...
Fellow forum member Jag Bass came up with this solution, which he dubbed the 'Claws Out' mod. He outlines it in detail in this post below. If you follow his instructions exactly (and use the same relay he did), this is a *very* easy mod to do. I did this exact setup with my car (including using the third HomeLink button in place of the wireless remote and this mod works flawlessly and does exactly what you want to do.
Total for parts $28.97 and about half a days work building and installing. These are the parts I used, but I am sure there are others out that will work the same if these become scarce. Very simple concept.
Here is the completed unit. It operates via 433mhz key fob included however, I programed the 3rd homelink button with channel B of the Key FOB, works like a charm.
The wires coming from behind the relays are power for the unit which is taken from the Active Exhaust fuse tap. The front to wires are from the relay Channel B, one is connected to Normally Closed and has the original fuse from Position #15, 5amp in the inline fuse holder. The other is common.
Shows the Normally close and common wires attached below the 5amp fuse tapping power from the Active Exhaust circuit for the eMylo power supply.
Power tap installed into position #15 under the hood. This should work the same with the pre-2020 F-Types with the Active Exhaust fuse #43. You will just have to reconfigure the wires and location of the receiver unit depending on where the fuse box is located.
The eMylo is wedged comfortably between the wire bundle and metal panel behind the fuse box. The bolt to the left of the pic is where I picked up a ground for the eMylo power.
The eMylo does not get power until the vehicle is in Acc. mode or once started. After the unit powers up, press the button B on the Key FOB, or for my installation the 3rd Home link Mirror button. I programmed the 3rd Homelink Mirror with the Channel B Key FOB frequency.
The relay will disconnect the Active Exhaust 5amp inline fuse, essentially the same as removing the fuse from the box. The Active exhaust flappers will fully open and be disabled. You can always just press the transmit button again, either key fob or Homelink if you program that, to return the Active Exhaust system to a normal state, just like plugging the fuse back in.
If the car is turned off will the Active Exhaust is disabled the eMylo unit will reset back to normal exhaust mode because that circuit will lose power about 30 seconds after you shut the car down. Once restarted you will have to hit the button again to disable the Active Exhaust system.
The "Claws out Mod" will definitely get your cat noticed.
Last edited by Thunder Dump; Dec 30, 2023 at 04:31 PM.
The only caveat with the MY21 and newer cars (that use electronically-actuated valves instead of vacuum-actuated valves on the MY20 and older cars) is that you do have to pay attention to which state the valves are in (open/closed) when you actuate the relay because the valves will remain in that state until you switch the relay again. This is not an issue with the Claws Out mod, but rather the way the electronic valves behave. With the vacuum valves, the default position is open and the valve requires constant vacuum (from the engine or pump, depending on model year) to close them. As soon as vacuum-pressure goes away the valves return to their open state. With the electronic valves, they work more like a light switch. The exhaust button sends a signal to either open or close them, but they don't require a constant voltage to remain open. Once open they remain open until they receive a signal to close, and once closed they stay closed until they receive a signal to open.
So.....if you 'pull the fuse' (by activating the relay) when the valves are already in the open position, they will remain open (which is the desired behavior of pulling the fuse). BUT......if you 'pull the fuse' when the valves are closed, they will remain closed no matter what the engine RPM or drive mode would otherwise change. This is NOT the desired behavior and doesn't happen on the MY20 and older cars because pulling the fuse instantly kills the vacuum pressure which automatically opens the valves. However, it is *very easy* to make sure you have the valves open before you 'pull the fuse'. At idle, press the active exhaust button to open the valves, then 'pull the fuse'. In any driving mode, at idle the valves will open if the button is pressed. As soon as the RPMs change (such as putting the vehicle into D and driving away or revving the engine), however, valves will close until 3500 RPM or so.
You can 'restore the fuse' anytime you'd like without concern as to the valve position, since if you pulled it when they were open, they will be open when you restore power to the circuit.
With this mod you can have an amazing amount of control over the noise of the vehicle.
Last edited by Thunder Dump; Dec 30, 2023 at 04:34 PM.
I removed fuse 15 from my 2022 P450 and can't envision the circumstance in which I would replace it. Although I probably will put it back in temporarily whenever the car is in the dealer's possession for maintenance.
The only caveat with the MY21 and newer cars (that use electronically-actuated valves instead of vacuum-actuated valves on the MY20 and older cars) is that you do have to pay attention to which state the valves are in (open/closed) when you actuate the relay because the valves will remain in that state until you switch the relay again. This is not an issue with the Claws Out mod, but rather the way the electronic valves behave. With the vacuum valves, the default position is open and the valve requires constant vacuum (from the engine or pump, depending on model year) to close them. As soon as vacuum-pressure goes away the valves return to their open state. With the electronic valves, they work more like a light switch. The exhaust button sends a signal to either open or close them, but they don't require a constant voltage to remain open. Once open they remain open until they receive a signal to close, and once closed they stay closed until they receive a signal to open.
So.....if you 'pull the fuse' (by activating the relay) when the valves are already in the open position, they will remain open (which is the desired behavior of pulling the fuse). BUT......if you 'pull the fuse' when the valves are closed, they will remain closed no matter what the engine RPM or drive mode would otherwise change. This is NOT the desired behavior and doesn't happen on the MY20 and older cars because pulling the fuse instantly kills the vacuum pressure which automatically opens the valves. However, it is *very easy* to make sure you have the valves open before you 'pull the fuse'. At idle, press the active exhaust button to open the valves, then 'pull the fuse'. In any driving mode, at idle the valves will open if the button is pressed. As soon as the RPMs change (such as putting the vehicle into D and driving away or revving the engine), however, valves will close until 3500 RPM or so.
You can 'restore the fuse' anytime you'd like without concern as to the valve position, since if you pulled it when they were open, they will be open when you restore power to the circuit.
With this mod you can have an amazing amount of control over the noise of the vehicle.
Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. That sounds like a very interesting approach. Nice and clean, using an already existing button etc...Pretty cool.
I removed fuse 15 from my 2022 P450 and can't envision the circumstance in which I would replace it. Although I probably will put it back in temporarily whenever the car is in the dealer's possession for maintenance.
To each their own I guess.
Couple possible considerations for ya: The valve will seize on your eventually if not exercising it...So one of these times you will replace the fuse for going into your dealer but it will still be in loud mode.
The other thing, at least in my case: I want to retain the ability to have quieter starts to respect the neighbours a bit in some cases.
I removed fuse 15 from my 2022 P450 and can't envision the circumstance in which I would replace it. Although I probably will put it back in temporarily whenever the car is in the dealer's possession for maintenance.
I guess another consideration that I did not think of, and that I just read on another current thread:
"I pulled Fuse # 15. The effect was different than just pressing the console button. It was a bit louder and more aggressive sounding all the time. It was fun, but after about a 50 mile round trip down the State Highway and back up the mountain I decided it was too much of a good thing. I like DJS's idea of a remote relay, there is a thread here somewhere that details how it was done and how it can be switched on and off with a wireless remote fob type device if I recall."
There are probably tons of people like you though that love it full time and could care less. I suspect I'm like you in that regard, I just have the neighbour considerations in mind more than anything...
I pulled the fuse on my MY21 back in April and never actually looked to see if the valves were in the open position at the time. After reading Thunder Dump's previous post, it appears that I need to head out to the garage and visually inspect the exhaust even though it's quite loud during start up and normal driving. Thanks for the tip.
I pulled the fuse on my MY21 back in April and never actually looked to see if the valves were in the open position at the time. After reading Thunder Dump's previous post, it appears that I need to head out to the garage and visually inspect the exhaust even though it's quite loud during start up and normal driving. Thanks for the tip.
Jim, you should update your signature since the SVR is gone.
Fellow forum member Jag Bass came up with this solution, which he dubbed the 'Claws Out' mod. He outlines it in detail in this post below. If you follow his instructions exactly (and use the same relay he did), this is a *very* easy mod to do. I did this exact setup with my car (including using the third HomeLink button in place of the wireless remote and this mod works flawlessly and does exactly what you want to do.
A question in a similar but different vein, if you'd be so kind. My 2014 V8S. At cold start up, the exhaust "barks" then fades away as the engine warms up. I have often wondered why this occurs only at cold start up, and how I could retain this at every start up. tia.
TThe valve will seize on your eventually if not exercising it...So one of these times you will replace the fuse for going into your dealer but it will still be in loud mode.
So the dealer wil replace the faulty valve(s) under warranty!
If they even notice ...
You know what I mean though from the perspective of not wanting to give them any wiggle room around denying warranty work etc...I would probably do the same as SassySarah and think to put the fuse back in to avoid any possible issues in that direction. I have seen examples where manufacturers will try and blame anything to deny warranty.
So, I just replaced fuse 15 prior to my annual service next week.
Sounds the same as without the fuse.
I am guessing the valves are stuck open after just a few months and about 3K miles.
Will have it checked by the dealer (under warranty).
Would prefer to have the car operate correctly even if a bit quieter.
So, I just replaced fuse 15 prior to my annual service next week.
Sounds the same as without the fuse.
I am guessing the valves are stuck open after just a few months and about 3K miles.
Will have it checked by the dealer (under warranty).
Would prefer to have the car operate correctly even if a bit quieter.
Make sure the fuse is actually good. I had mine out for over a year on my V6 and it was never an issue.
Yes, I replaced the fuse twice using new 5 amp fuses from a new pack.
Both fuses looked good and are installed correctly.
Will see what dealer says next week.
So, I just replaced fuse 15 prior to my annual service next week.
Sounds the same as without the fuse.
I am guessing the valves are stuck open after just a few months and about 3K miles.
Will have it checked by the dealer (under warranty).
Would prefer to have the car operate correctly even if a bit quieter.
Maybe you are seized maybe not, but generally this on/off fuse business being discussed here could help with more easily exercising the valves to avoid the problem. I think it's a good idea...Best of both world and no seizing.
I fully suspect that I would basically have the valves open 99% of the time when driving, but it's nice to have that flexibility to have "quiet starts" (I hear they are not all that quiet anyway), and to avoid this seizing scenario.
Yes, I replaced the fuse twice using new 5 amp fuses from a new pack.
Both fuses looked good and are installed correctly.
Will see what dealer says next week.
Also, just confirming you know for sure they are stuck open. Depending on your build date, you could have electric valves instead of vacuum valves (the switch was MY21 but I don't know if all MY21's have them--especially the V6s). With the electric valves, they will stay in their last state indefinitely until power is reapplied, so if you have electric valves and you somehow pulled the fuse when the valves were closed, then they've been closed this whole time and when you put the fuse back in, they're now energized but still closed. Unless you get the car up over 3500 RPM you're not going to really be able to tell (unless you either visually inspect or you have the vacuum valves).
No sure I follow, Thunder Dump.
I assume most (all?) remove the fuse while the car is stationary with the engine off, as I did.
So surely that would mean the valves are naturally closed when the fuse is removed?
With the fuse out, as most members indicate the valves stay open.
So, why wouldn't replacing the fuse simply reacttivate the open/close circuit?
Sorry if I am being a bit lame here!!
No sure I follow, Thunder Dump.
I assume most (all?) remove the fuse while the car is stationary with the engine off, as I did.
So surely that would mean the valves are naturally closed when the fuse is removed?
With the fuse out, as most members indicate the valves stay open.
So, why wouldn't replacing the fuse simply reacttivate the open/close circuit?
Sorry if I am being a bit lame here!!
If you remove it with the car off, the valves would be open since the valves always default to the open position when the car is switched off (as the vacuum-operated valves require vacuum pressure to open). Even if they are closed when the car is shut off, they will open as part of the shutdown because they lose vacuum pressure and open. The electric valves have been programmed to mimic this same behavior. That is why the start is always such a bark--especially a cold start. On startup, the valves stay open for about 2-3 seconds and then once enough vacuum pressure is created from the engine they close (that's why a cold start is louder with the fuse pulled--the valves stay open the entire time during the higher RPMs).
If you pulled the fuse with the car off, then they should have been open and remained open. Putting the fuse back in when the car is off would just restore normal behavior. On the electric-valves, if you pull it when the car is running and the valves are closed, they will stay that way--even if the car is off (because they have no power in the circuit to switch open). So it sounds like you did it correctly.
Thanks for clarification, Thunder.
If the normal mode is valves open with engine off, it seems less likely they would stick open with the fuse removed.
Otherwise, you might expect to see sticking valves more frequently after cars have sat for extended periods between shipping and sale, or after Winter storage.
I will let you know what turns up at the service next week.
Fuse question
