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wait so removing this fuse keeps the active exhaust valves open full time?
does it sound louder at idle, feels like the valves are closed at idle even after you press exhaust button, it’s so quiet until you start moving
Yes. Once you pull it the system defaults to valves open regardless of switch position or drive mode. Fuse 43 is under the passengers feet.
My question is, is the whole system off the same as switch-on? I have heard that switch-on is only 80% open, so I've been running without F43 for a month or two, ever since I had to force the dealer to undo the new quiet software (which is awful!). Pulling the fuse did not help the new software get any louder, but I loved that loud mode cannot be turned off. No the car is back to the original software, but are there reasons that switch-on is better than F43-out?
In some cars without an enabled switch, F43 is the only way to keep the valves open.
Last edited by JIMLIGHTA; Feb 1, 2019 at 01:24 PM.
I don't have the switch, but with F43 out, the car drones pretty badly at highway speeds, with the top up. So, if I'm doing a longer trip on the highways, I pop the fuse back in. Have thought about putting a switch in series with F43.
It isn't louder with F43 out, but the valves may indeed be open more than if just using the switch.
I don't have the switch, but with F43 out, the car drones pretty badly at highway speeds, with the top up. So, if I'm doing a longer trip on the highways, I pop the fuse back in. Have thought about putting a switch in series with F43.
It isn't louder with F43 out, but the valves may indeed be open more than if just using the switch.
That's interesting, are you driving the i4, v6 or v8? Auto or MT?
With both my v6 and v8, both 8-speeds, in 6th or higher are quiet at highway speeds. 7th is inaudible, in 8th some sound is detectable but not noticeable. So its hard to say if the Fuse makes a difference in cruise.
I am the ultimate environmentalist so I can't wait to cut that crap out, but I'm in a non-emissions area. My cars and trucks produce so much CO2, plants green-up as I drive by.
That's interesting, are you driving the i4, v6 or v8? Auto or MT?
With both my v6 and v8, both 8-speeds, in 6th or higher are quiet at highway speeds. 7th is inaudible, in 8th some sound is detectable but not noticeable. So its hard to say if the Fuse makes a difference in cruise.
even with the OEM exhaust system my car would drone at highway speeds with the valves open. I attributed that to the fact my MT runs about 600 RPM higher than the ATs at that speed, but that theory was undermined by Dave’s experience.
I've assumed that those with the switch don't drone at highway speeds because the car knows that the valves shouldn't be 100% open at 2500RPM even when the Active Exhaust switch is on. But that's just a guess.
I've assumed that those with the switch don't drone at highway speeds because the car knows that the valves shouldn't be 100% open at 2500RPM even when the Active Exhaust switch is on. But that's just a guess.
2500 RPM is probably the reason.
An 8-speed V8 turns exactly 1500 RPM at 70 mph. Almost idling. 8th is geared for 312 mph at redline. Nice.
Last edited by JIMLIGHTA; Feb 1, 2019 at 05:34 PM.
Just an FYI, the active exhaust fuse on the 2020 is under the hood, Fuse #15. Working on a mod to add a switch to turn the active exhaust system completely on and off at will without pulling the fuse.
Going the exact same route but building myself. I will use button 3 on mirror to control a wireless relay so not to have to worry about an extra FOB. Parts to build are about 30.00 on amazon.
Total for parts $28.97 and about half a days work building and installing. These are the parts I used, but I am sure there are others out that will work the same if these become scarce. Very simple concept.
Here is the completed unit. It operates via 433mhz key fob included however, I programed the 3rd homelink button with channel B of the Key FOB, works like a charm.
The wires coming from behind the relays are power for the unit which is taken from the Active Exhaust fuse tap. The front to wires are from the relay Channel B, one is connected to Normally Closed and has the original fuse from Position #15, 5amp in the inline fuse holder. The other is common.
Shows the Normally close and common wires attached below the 5amp fuse tapping power from the Active Exhaust circuit for the eMylo power supply.
Power tap installed into position #15 under the hood. This should work the same with the pre-2020 F-Types with the Active Exhaust fuse #43. You will just have to reconfigure the wires and location of the receiver unit depending on where the fuse box is located.
The eMylo is wedged comfortably between the wire bundle and metal panel behind the fuse box. The bolt to the left of the pic is where I picked up a ground for the eMylo power.
The eMylo does not get power until the vehicle is in Acc. mode or once started. After the unit powers up, press the button B on the Key FOB, or for my installation the 3rd Home link Mirror button. I programmed the 3rd Homelink Mirror with the Channel B Key FOB frequency.
The relay will disconnect the Active Exhaust 5amp inline fuse, essentially the same as removing the fuse from the box. The Active exhaust flappers will fully open and be disabled. You can always just press the transmit button again, either key fob or Homelink if you program that, to return the Active Exhaust system to a normal state, just like plugging the fuse back in.
If the car is turned off will the Active Exhaust is disabled the eMylo unit will reset back to normal exhaust mode because that circuit will lose power about 30 seconds after you shut the car down. Once restarted you will have to hit the button again to disable the Active Exhaust system.
The "Claws out Mod" will definitely get your cat noticed.
I don't see why not, I am sure that the Active Exhaust control works the same with pre-2020 models as well. If fuse 43 is located in a different fuse panel you may have to reconfigure the wires and storage location for the reciever unit. Not a huge investment to give it a try.
