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Thanks. I had the R for a short time back in 2018. Long story but I had to reject it due to a quality problem. Got all my money back in fairness but it wasn’t a great experience. Anyway, I remember it being much louder than the P450 but it’s too long ago for me to really compare it now to the claws out. I’m very happy with this solution as it’s cheap, easy to pop in and out for dealer visits and allows me to have some quiet cruising as well. Even longer ago I had an E92 M3 and I did the whole stage 2, decat, Eisenman Race exhaust thing and it was tiresome to live with. Looked much better than the stock tumour under the boot arrangement though.
Interesting, out of curiosity was your 2018 R brand new? Was it some major mechanical issue or just some super annoying build quality thing?
2. Seems to me that the valves open in DYNAMIC mode, however they do not open fully under all circumstances. This can be verified by starting the car in PARK with the driver's side. next to a building or in a garage with the driver's window open and IMMEDIATELY after starting, engage dynamic mode. You can hear the exhaust open up and then immediately close up a bit. Drop it into Reverse and you'll hear the sound change. Seems louder in reverse, but that may not be accurate.
On the MY22+ cars with the electronic valves, by default the valves open up when you shut the car off, so they are open when you first start the car (from the last ignition cycle). If the engine is cold, they stay open for about 4-5 seconds and then close during high idle and will stay closed. If you have engaged the Exhaust switch or Dynamic Mode (and by proxy it also engages the Exhaust switch into loud mode), once the car reaches low idle (or if it is warm already) the valves will open while in P. Unlike the older cars, switching into Dynamic mode immediately upon starting won't do anything because even in Dynamic mode the valves stay closed on these cars unless you're either (a) at low idle, or (b) you're higher up in the RPM range. Gear selecting D or R at idle won't make a difference other than it will cause the RPMs to drop slightly when you engage the transmission.
The opening of the valves is independent of Dynamic Mode. Dynamic Mode automatically switches the exhaust to loud but you can manually undo that by pressing the Exhaust button again even though the car is in Dynamic Mode.
It's definitely different behavior than the vacuum-operated valves.
Last edited by Thunder Dump; Feb 10, 2025 at 08:29 PM.
Interesting, out of curiosity was your 2018 R brand new? Was it some major mechanical issue or just some super annoying build quality thing?
it was brand new. Here goes with the story.
I ordered the car in white with a red roof. I paid the extra to visit the factory on the build day and see it going down the line. Here is where I first smelled a rat.
I received a call from Jaguar a couple of weeks before the build date informing me that my visit was cancelled.
Why?
Because it’s already been built.
Oh, when did that happen then?
I don’t know………
I let it go. What else could I do? With hindsight cancel my order I guess.
Anyway, the car arrived and I inspected it and it looked fantastic. Of course I was extremely careful with it but when I gave it its first clean there appeared a nick in one wheel. Now I can only guess that this was done on the transporter and they somehow disguised it. Anyway that wasn’t the issue.
I expect more wind noise with a convertible but I had the sense that it was somewhat excessive. Now I more closely inspected the fitment of the roof where it meets the screen. It was out. Maybe 3 or 4 mm but it did not sit flush into the rubber bit. It was basically not straight.
I took it back and it was gone for several weeks. Eventually the service manager called to say it had arrived back but he was not entirely happy with the fix.
Ok I said. Enough. I’ll have my 93,000 pounds back please. Jaguar customer services were ok but asked me how much contribution I’d like to make for the 1500 miles I’d done carefully running it in for them. I said no pounds and no pence thanks. They were ok. The Jaguar financial services guys were helpful too. I got it all back.
And so my love affair with the F Type and Jaguar in particular ended. For now ……..
I had no issue with the dealer. They were good. Someone did a job on me at the factory. Here’s my theory.
Somehow there existed a build but it had the more common black roof. They cancelled my visit and stuck a red one on. Badly. And delivered me that. I could be wrong but it stands to reason as a plausible theory.
Anyway, I bought a C63S AMG. It was ok. But it wasn’t an F Type. It went and I bought a more practical RSQ3 which I love and still have. But then I never really found anything that looked as lovely as the F Type. And I really liked the facelift. So I started looking again. And, as luck would have it I noticed that, for roughly the price I had in mind for a used one, I could get a brand new (pre-registered) one and they all seemed to be sitting at my local dealer. Even went through the same salesman. Nice guy.
That’s my story. This one is much better in many ways but I’m sure they lowered it a lot during the intervening years……or maybe I got older :-)
Last edited by markjord; Feb 11, 2025 at 12:15 AM.
it was brand new. Here goes with the story.
I ordered the car in white with a red roof. I paid the extra to visit the factory on the build day and see it going down the line. Here is where I first smelled a rat.
I received a call from Jaguar a couple of weeks before the build date informing me that my visit was cancelled.
Why?
Because it’s already been built.
Oh, when did that happen then?
I don’t know………
I let it go. What else could I do? With hindsight cancel my order I guess.
Anyway, the car arrived and I inspected it and it looked fantastic. Of course I was extremely careful with it but when I gave it its first clean there appeared a nick in one wheel. Now I can only guess that this was done on the transporter and they somehow disguised it. Anyway that wasn’t the issue.
I expect more wind noise with a convertible but I had the sense that it was somewhat excessive. Now I more closely inspected the fitment of the roof where it meets the screen. It was out. Maybe 3 or 4 mm but it did not sit flush into the rubber bit. It was basically not straight.
I took it back and it was gone for several weeks. Eventually the service manager called to say it had arrived back but he was not entirely happy with the fix.
Ok I said. Enough. I’ll have my 93,000 pounds back please. Jaguar customer services were ok but asked me how much contribution I’d like to make for the 1500 miles I’d done carefully running it in for them. I said no pounds and no pence thanks. They were ok. The Jaguar financial services guys were helpful too. I got it all back.
And so my love affair with the F Type and Jaguar in particular ended. For now ……..
I had no issue with the dealer. They were good. Someone did a job on me at the factory. Here’s my theory.
Somehow there existed a build but it had the more common black roof. They cancelled my visit and stuck a red one on. Badly. And delivered me that. I could be wrong but it stands to reason as a plausible theory.
Anyway, I bought a C63S AMG. It was ok. But it wasn’t an F Type. It went and I bought a more practical RSQ3 which I love and still have. But then I never really found anything that looked as lovely as the F Type. And I really liked the facelift. So I started looking again. And, as luck would have it I noticed that, for roughly the price I had in mind for a used one, I could get a brand new (pre-registered) one and they all seemed to be sitting at my local dealer. Even went through the same salesman. Nice guy.
That’s my story. This one is much better in many ways but I’m sure they lowered it a lot during the intervening years……or maybe I got older :-)
Jeebers, that was quite the journey, and I would tend to agree about it being a pretty crappy problem to have with an expensive car like this. That would have drove me nuts too. Well, it all worked out in the end.
On the MY22+ cars with the electronic valves, by default the valves open up when you shut the car off, so they are open when you first start the car (from the last ignition cycle). If the engine is cold, they stay open for about 4-5 seconds and then close during high idle and will stay closed. If you have engaged the Exhaust switch or Dynamic Mode (and by proxy it also engages the Exhaust switch into loud mode), once the car reaches low idle (or if it is warm already) the valves will open while in P. Unlike the older cars, switching into Dynamic mode immediately upon starting won't do anything because even in Dynamic mode the valves stay closed on these cars unless you're either (a) at low idle, or (b) you're higher up in the RPM range. Gear selecting D or R at idle won't make a difference other than it will cause the RPMs to drop slightly when you engage the transmission.
The opening of the valves is independent of Dynamic Mode. Dynamic Mode automatically switches the exhaust to loud but you can manually undo that by pressing the Exhaust button again even though the car is in Dynamic Mode.
It's definitely different behavior than the vacuum-operated valves.
THANK YOU FOR THE EXPLANATION !
Therefore, to get the MOST out of our CLAWS OUT, it should be engaged at low idle.
THANK YOU FOR THE EXPLANATION !
Therefore, to get the MOST out of our CLAWS OUT, it should be engaged at low idle.
The only concern with the MY22+ cars is you must activate the Claws Out mod when the valves are already open (it doesn't matter when you deactivate it). The only way to guarantee they are already open is either immediately before startup OR stationary at low idle with the exhaust button active. The best two (2) ways to do this are:
Press the ignition button once (but don't have your foot on the brake pedal) to turn the ignition on. Among all the other start systems, this also energizes the exhaust valve circuit. Press the exhaust valve button to ensure it is on (lit). Then activate the Claws Out mod with either the remote or the Homelink button (if so programmed). Now put your foot on the brake and start the car. The valves will remain open until you turn the Claws out mod off again. NOTE: This method will give you a gloriously loud start!
Start the car normally. Wait for the car to go from high idle to low idle. Once in low idle, while still in P or N, press the exhaust valve button to ensure it is on (lit). You should hear an audible change in the exhaust volume/tone indicating the valves are now open. Then activate the Claws Out mod with either the remote or the Homelink button (if so programmed). The valves will remain open until you turn the Claws out mod off again.
Again, you can deactivate the Claws Out mod at anytime under any conditions and the valves will return to their normal functioning. It's only when activating it do you need to be mindful of the valve position. Otherwise, you will end up deactivating them in the closed position and they will stay that way regardless of drive mode or engine RPM.
Last edited by Thunder Dump; Feb 11, 2025 at 08:32 AM.
The only concern with the MY22+ cars is you must activate the Claws Out mod when the valves are already open (it doesn't matter when you deactivate it). The only way to guarantee they are already open is either immediately before startup OR stationary at low idle with the exhaust button active. The best two (2) ways to do this are:
Press the ignition button once (but don't have your foot on the brake pedal) to turn the ignition on. Among all the other start systems, this also energizes the exhaust valve circuit. Press the exhaust valve button to ensure it is on (lit). Then activate the Claws Out mod with either the remote or the Homelink button (if so programmed). Now put your foot on the brake and start the car. The valves will remain open until you turn the Claws out mod off again. NOTE: This method will give you a gloriously loud start!
Start the car normally. Wait for the car to go from high idle to low idle. Once in low idle, while still in P or N, press the exhaust valve button to ensure it is on (lit). You should hear an audible change in the exhaust volume/tone indicating the valves are now open. Then activate the Claws Out mod with either the remote or the Homelink button (if so programmed). The valves will remain open until you turn the Claws out mod off again.
Again, you can deactivate the Claws Out mod at anytime under any conditions and the valves will return to their normal functioning. It's only when activating it do you need to be mindful of the valve position. Otherwise, you will end up deactivating them in the closed position and they will stay that way regardless of drive mode or engine RPM.
Been fooling around with this and it also seems that the timing of when you hit the homelink button plays into it.
Waiting for the last "bell" to finish ringing, then immediately hitting the homelink button for 2 seconds or so APPEARS to make a big difference in setting the valves.
Results APPEAR to be far better than under #2 above.
Total for parts $28.97 and about half a days work building and installing. These are the parts I used, but I am sure there are others out that will work the same if these become scarce. Very simple concept.
Here is the completed unit. It operates via 433mhz key fob included however, I programed the 3rd homelink button with channel B of the Key FOB, works like a charm.
The wires coming from behind the relays are power for the unit which is taken from the Active Exhaust fuse tap. The front to wires are from the relay Channel B, one is connected to Normally Closed and has the original fuse from Position #15, 5amp in the inline fuse holder. The other is common.
Shows the Normally close and common wires attached below the 5amp fuse tapping power from the Active Exhaust circuit for the eMylo power supply.
Power tap installed into position #15 under the hood. This should work the same with the pre-2020 F-Types with the Active Exhaust fuse #43. You will just have to reconfigure the wires and location of the receiver unit depending on where the fuse box is located.
The eMylo is wedged comfortably between the wire bundle and metal panel behind the fuse box. The bolt to the left of the pic is where I picked up a ground for the eMylo power.
The eMylo does not get power until the vehicle is in Acc. mode or once started. After the unit powers up, press the button B on the Key FOB, or for my installation the 3rd Home link Mirror button. I programmed the 3rd Homelink Mirror with the Channel B Key FOB frequency.
The relay will disconnect the Active Exhaust 5amp inline fuse, essentially the same as removing the fuse from the box. The Active exhaust flappers will fully open and be disabled. You can always just press the transmit button again, either key fob or Homelink if you program that, to return the Active Exhaust system to a normal state, just like plugging the fuse back in.
If the car is turned off will the Active Exhaust is disabled the eMylo unit will reset back to normal exhaust mode because that circuit will lose power about 30 seconds after you shut the car down. Once restarted you will have to hit the button again to disable the Active Exhaust system.
The "Claws out Mod" will definitely get your cat noticed.
Im looking to do this soon thanks! How is the inline fuse wired into the fuse tap? Just stripped back and pushed in? Thanks @Jag Bass
Last edited by jazzyfingers2; Sep 8, 2025 at 06:26 AM.
