92 ft/lbs. is the F-Type DRY torque spec.

Please note that "dry" means do not put any type of lube or anti-seize compound on the threads. Any lubrication will dramatically increase the amount of torque necessary to get the lugs to a proper spec, and 92 ft lbs. will no longer be the proper spec.

 

All copied - Thanks.

Is it 92ft/lbs for the adapter plate lug nuts as well?

 

Yes.

I would also take the wheels off after a few hundred miles, and re-check the torque of the adapter plate lugs.

 

Very happy about this! The silver ring showing behind the wheel was my only reservation...

 

Nice...

Never knew about the availability of the black anodization from Motorsport until now. Sorry for the confusion because the pictures I posted were in silver.

Just confirmed the spacers will indeed be anodized with a flat black finish

In my opinion, I'd clearly say the adapter color should be flat black and definitely match the hub and not stand out like a non oem add-on.

If anyone prefers their set to remain in the natural aluminum finish, please let Lenny know ASAP and he will not anodize your set.

 

That's a good point, can we use the permanent loctite for extra safety for the adapters if we plan them as a permanent add-on? I see no need to ever remove them other than if we were to get some custom wheels that then we could toy with the offsets.

Am I missing any reason we should ever need to remove these other than failure?

 

I would think you'd need to remove the spacers to replace brake rotors at a minimum.

 

92 ft-lbs (125Nm) on both (same stud size). And yes, use something similar to Never-Seez (silver colored copper & graphite goo). Otherwise you can't torque it properly and you run the risk of not getting it back off without penetrant and an impact wrench (locations with real weather). Thread deformation at the appropriate torque will lock the lug nuts in place. Jag does not specify that torque as a dry torque. The Mark's Mechanical Engineering Handbook concurs with my approach. (and 4 decades driving & 1.5 decades of racing experience). Always results in the same torque required to take them off as to put them on. That can't be said about the dry approach.

 

+1.

 

Yes, if you ever need to replace the rotors...and you will.

 

OK, I'm not a mechanic but are you saying both a brake job and a rotor replacement you would need to remove adapter? Rotors I can see, but pads?

There are at least two versions of Loctite, permanent and temporary. You're referring to a copper grease for easy threading. Our purposes are diametrically opposed. I'll use what you suggest.

 

Made it in guys. Thanks for the help.

 

The pads can be replaced without removing anything but the wheel. However, the steel on those rotors is soft enough these days that they need to be replaced whenever the pads are replaced. BMW rotors (including the MINIs) all need replacement with the pads, and those rotors are from the same vendor as the F-Type's.

 

Are you F serious?

This I didn't F know!

New rotor overtime you need pads...when did the car makers drop this F bombshell on us? How did I F miss this?

 

Serious as a heart attack. For my MINI, since the beginning (2002). Other Bimmers earlier than that. Weight saving issue. They don't put enough meat on new rotors anymore to make it possible to turn them.

 

I will get some sweet cross drilled, slotted rotors at first sign of failure,

 

It's rare that a rotor "needs" to be replaced when brake pads do.. You should request a measurement of the rotor to ensure they are indeed worn below the manufacturers minimum width requirement. You also do NOT need rotors turned when you change brake pads.

 

This is what Ive always thought but Unhinged would know.

Rotors ere covered under warranty or is this considered driver fault?

 

Generally, that is correct, but no longer true on German cars.

 

You'll have to read your warranty.