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Got a screw in a tire and left the tire at Discount Tire to be replaced (I had driven on it and ruined the tire, so it could not be plugged - yes the tire pressure monitor told me, don't ask!). They were supposed to have the tire on Wednesday (31 Aug) but due to a shipping SNAFU it is still not in. While waiting for the tire I ordered a bunch of stuff, and since the tire still hasn't come in I decided to do a bunch of work. So...
Installed Euro tail lights (for amber turn signals, as God intended!)
Installed KW H.A.S. spring kit (removed H&R springs - for sale if anyone is interested)
Replaced rear differential fluid with Castrol BOT 750B (putting fill plug back in is a PITA!)
Replaced engine oil with Liqui Moly Special Tec LR 0W-20 oil, waiting on a filter wrench to change the filter (broke a coolant hose, waiting for some silicone tube to repair)
Replaced upper radiator plastic hose with aluminum (did not do the pipe under the SuperCharger, that can wait for another day!)
Replaced CarbonCeramic brake pads and sensors front and rear with Dynamic Friction pads
Euro tails was a bit of a project as the whole rear interior has to come out to get the lights out. Also the rear bumper cover has to come off. And since I dropped a fitting, I had to remove the bumper again to find it! VERY happy with the result, though. I do NOT understand why OEMs insist on delivering cars with red turn signals in the US when the rest of the world gets the proper amber signals... One tricky part is some double stick tape is used on the rear-most inner panel. Used this to replace it:
KW springs look very nice and I have used KW on previous cars. Fully height adjustable. I don't know why the car was so low on the H&R springs, but it also has spacers, and I was rubbing very badly on any decent sized bump. Hopefully raising it a bit with the KW's will be sufficient, if not I will need to remove the spacers or use thinner ones. https://www.kwsuspensions.com/produc...-25331005.html
Rear diff was easy except the fill plug. I think a ball end 8mm Allen is required to get it back in or the plug just won't start threading in to the hole as you can't line it up straight on. The old fluid was very dark but not thick as I have seen some on YouTube. Car has 52k miles on it, no idea if the fluid has been changed before or not.
Engine oil was SO easy with the MityVac! I just screwed up and broke the tiny radiator line the goes next to the filter as I was trying to loosen the filter (never got it loose, waiting on filter wrench).
Filter: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=5340&jsn=528
Filter wrench:
Upper radiator pipe replacement was relatively easy. The hardest part was getting the OEM hoses off the OEM pipe. Age had baked them in to place. Replacement part fit perfectly, and getting everything back together was much faster than taking it apart.
Aluminum pipe: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224991486556
Now time to relax and get that damn tire in so I can enjoy the car again! It has now been idle for much longer than I have driven it since I got it 3 weeks ago!
Projects still to do:
Install front camera to UAD CarPlay system
Install aluminum pipe under SuperCharger
Fix rock chips with Dr. Colorchip
Replace brake pad sensors
Change oil filter
Got the filter wrench, so the filter is now changed. Also used a 1.5" piece of 6 mm black silicone hose to patch the cracked radiator line. Just slipped half over each end of the break. That should hold the pressure and temperature fine.
"...Installed Euro tail lights (for amber turn signals, as God intended!)...
Some state laws dictate automobile turn signal colors, and if your state says something different than what you're installing, a fix-it ticket could be the result. Do what you want but keep the old ones!
Got the filter wrench, so the filter is now changed. Also used a 1.5" piece of 6 mm black silicone hose to patch the cracked radiator line. Just slipped half over each end of the break. That should hold the pressure and temperature fine.
Keep a close eye on that fix and on the temperature gauge.
I did something similar when my hose/pipe/tube started leaking (the upper of the small plastic hoses where it joined the other pipe), using tape and a hose clamp.
It held up for 8 or 9 months but then one day I got the dreaded "coolant low" message on the dash, lo and behold the split had gotten bigger/worse and the expansion tank was nearly empty. So I pulled the trigger and fitted the new part I had bought a few months earlier, I had put off fitting the new part coz I was worried I would struggle to properly fit the ends of two small hoses but it was nowhere near as difficult as I thought.
"...Installed Euro tail lights (for amber turn signals, as God intended!)...
Some state laws dictate auto turn signal colors, and if your state says something different, a fix-it ticket could be the result. Do what you want but keep the old ones!
It's covered in Federal Code, actually. Front turn signals must be white or amber (or any shade between), rear must be amber or red (or any shade between). They are wholly legal, and many OEM rear turn signals are amber (as God intended!).
It's covered in Federal Code, actually. Front turn signals must be white or amber (or any shade between), rear must be amber or red (or any shade between). They are wholly legal, and many OEM rear turn signals are amber (as God intended!).
Now I know who to call for help- I live in fishers.
OP, can you share the source/link of the rear amber turn signals please? And how difficult would you rate the install? Thanks.
I found them on German eBay. Install was not difficult, but tedious with lots of trim getting removed. No hidden or blocked fasteners. There’s a YouTube on removing the rear bumper cover that was handy, and I plan to post some pix.
Keep a close eye on that fix and on the temperature gauge.
I did something similar when my hose/pipe/tube started leaking (the upper of the small plastic hoses where it joined the other pipe), using tape and a hose clamp.
It held up for 8 or 9 months but then one day I got the dreaded "coolant low" message on the dash, lo and behold the split had gotten bigger/worse and the expansion tank was nearly empty. So I pulled the trigger and fitted the new part I had bought a few months earlier, I had put off fitting the new part coz I was worried I would struggle to properly fit the ends of two small hoses but it was nowhere near as difficult as I thought.
Took your advice and bought and installed a new line today. Figure I can keep my patched one as a backup, though at $30 for the part I'd probably go for a new one next time I need it anyway. Oddly these lines seem to be empty every time I open them, is that normal? I do have coolant in the expansion tank.
I hope you have better luck at Dicount Tire than I did . A simple puncture in the treads took three days and my sitting in their waiting area for 14 hours and finally taking it to a friend of mine who has a service station. On Monday they said my wire wheel cap slipped and cut the valve stem. Tuesday morning, tire flat. after serveral hours they said valve core was loose. Wednesday morning, tire flat. They said it would be late in the day before they got to me. I asked if they use a tire bath to test tires. I was told no because the water gets so dirty., so they use a spray bottle! At the service station, we put it in a tite bath and immediatly found the puncture in the treads. He plugged it, problem solved. I hope you have better luck than I did.
Could you share more info regarding the KW H.A.S. spring kit? Was there anything particualrly difficult with the install? How do you like the ride quality compared to the H&R springs and stock springs if you can still recall? Would you have any photos of the car with the KW springs installed?
Since the H&R were in already when I bought the car, installing the KW kit was very easy (no need for a spring compressor). You do end up removing ALL the OEM parts for the KW kit. If you do go with it, it is highly recommended to coat the threads with anti-seize so that you can make adjustments over time. Probably a good idea to put some on the interface between the bottom piece and the disc on top of it (bottom of the springs) as well.
I think the ride is better than the H&R (I never had the stock springs) - softer on small bumps, but it stiffens up quickly when needed. I don't have any photos at this time, but since they are adjustable, you can pick the ride height you want.
Id love a review of the pads you used! It was recently discussed on the forum when we found those super cheap replacement CCB pads.
All I can say for now is they stop the car. I haven't "driven in anger" yet, actually haven't even bedded them properly yet. An axle is out now waiting for a boot repair, which is going to take 2-3 days.
Would you have any photos of the car with the KW springs installed?
Here are some shots of the KWs installed. Still dialing in the ride height, and as you can see, I have tons of adjustment to go up or down. Right now I think I am very close, with the rear adjusted so it doesn't bottom out, and the front a bit lower to give the car some rake (and it doesn't bottom out up front either).
To really set up the car correctly it should be corner weighed. As it is, it's unknown how much weight is on each tire due to the differing spring seat positions.