2016 F-Type: Has anyone had a problem with their Hazard Light (the red hazard triangle) staying on after you lock your car. Is this normal, for the triangle to stay illuminated after car is lock and in sleep mode?

 

Nope, not normal. Here's a previous thread.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...switch-158136/

 

If that triangle remains illuminated longer than 15 minutes approximately after the engine is shut down, it is the warning that your car has not gone to sleep and that the battery is being drained. The cause is usually that an OBDII code reader has been plugged into the system and not shut down before it is removed. The battery will continue to be depleted until this issue is resolved.

The solution: You MUST disconnect the negative battery lead on the trunk floor - it takes about 2 minutes to do this - so easy. Leave it disconnected for 30 seconds, then reconnect. This resets the system; the red triangle will go black after a short while (assuming you have locked the car) and the battery drain will cease.

the battery should be recharged (you do have a CTEK or similar battery, maintainer, right?). And be aware that any electrical malfunction you may experience - any - will likely be caused by low battery voltage and nothing else.

 

I don't understand why people are relating to the fact that the car has to be locked. During my storage I never lock the car and red hazard light always goes off. I hook up my battery tender and have yet to have a problem. Am I missing something here?

 

Well, yes, in a sense you are missing something - because when you leave your F-Type unlocked, the power-draining modules remain awake for a significantly longer period of time than they would if you locked the car.

For you it makes little difference because you "always hook up (the) battery tender" thus counteracting the battery drain. But if you did not do this, because the systems in the car would be active longer, your battery would be at lower charge than that of your twin who did everything exactly as you did but locked his car, thus not depleting his battery as much. And if you did not use your battery maintainer regularly, you might soon find random symptoms of low battery voltage appearing, and quite possibly, a dead battery.
On an almost daily basis we have questions whose answer is that the battery voltage is low - and nothing more.

 

I agree. When I put my car away for the winter I always leave it unlocked with the battery tender on it. I have actually opened the door and woke the car up while in storage on many occasions and the red triangle in the hazard button always goes off after about 10-15 minutes.

Also I almost never lock my car when in the garage and it can sit for 2 or 3 weeks at a time not on a battery tender. If I open the door to fetch something out of the console or glovebox the car wakes up and the red triangle always goes out after 10 to 15 minutes and I never have a battery problem.

 

Yes, your light goes out....but the OP is concerned because his light does not go out! And if he means that it is on longer than 15 minutes, that indicates that his car has not gone to sleep...see answer #3 above.

 

I had this same issue as well. The hazard light button is supposed to go sleep. There are a couple of options:

-Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. This will reset the BCM(Battery Control Module) and "usually" fix the issue. (I did this but the issue cameback a few days later)
-The battery itself maybe bad
-The software in the GCM (Gateway Control Module) maybe corrupt and may need to be reflashed. Before the reflash, the GCM was pulling 2 amps. After it was down to 45mA

In my instance, I had a bad battery and needed my GCM reflashed. Its been about 3 weeks since the dealer performed the fixes and all has been well

 

I was just agreeing with Rondog that locking the car doesn't seen to have anything to do with the battery drain.

 

So even returning from the dealership after a state inspection would cause The Evershining Triangle of doom because they plugged into the obd port for emissions testing here in Texas. My previous cures were the reset most mentioned of removing the negative strap cable. But that means resetting the windows. I wondered if the problem really was due to an improper disconnect of the obd equipment so I plugged my GAP tool in, connected to the car and then hit the disconnect option. Removed the dongle. And ten minutes later the car was back snoozing as it should. Done this twice now with positive results requiring no cable disconnect needed. Not a scientific study at this point but maybe someone will have similar success.

 

Yes, you've hit on the crux of the matter: as long as the plug-in programme is shut down before removal there is no lingering battery drain - which is why it does not usually happen when you car has been to the Jaguar dealer - they are aware of the proper procedure. (Your dealer does the emissions testing in Texas?)
As the most common instances seem to be related to emissions inspections, it seems to me that the best prevention method would be to ask the emissions tester to shut his programme down before removing the reader, no?

 

I guess the crux of my post was, if my car has been rudely disconnected from an OBD device (and yes my other state inspection place had the same effect), can you "rescue" it by plugging in another ODB and nicely disconnecting or is the battery disconnect the only option.

Some dealerships (my former Audi for example) just pop the car down the road to a testing station but it seems my dealer does it in house.

And I've also had another dealership in Austin cause the Bermuda Triangle when they were updating software. So maybe there is a disconnect button on the software but maybe some techs don't care to use it.

 

What's the gap tool that you use? I've not tried my icarsoft for fear of triggering the dreaded battery drain...

 

I use my iCarsoft LR V2.0 all the time, at least once every two weeks, to check for codes.
Before that I used an iCarsoft i930 again roughly every two weeks.
I have never, repeat NEVER had a battery problem of any type let alone drain and the battery is the original now 6.5 years old.
So crack open that iCarsoft and use it, it does not cause battery drain problems!

 

I’ve looked into ICarsoft LR V2.0 and the i930; which one is for Jaguar? The two you listed are for Mercedes & Porsche .

 

Both my iCarsofts are specifically for Land Rovers and Jaguars and nothing else so keep looking for JLR versions and you will find them.

 

Thanks, it seems like a new toy to buy this weekend. How easy is it to learn ?

 

It's a piece of cake where most times you just follow the on screen instructions or prompts and/or press the obvious button(s).
But if in doubt it comes with a full set of instructions.

 

Thanks Oz. I have the LR V2 as well
Remind me - do you get the battery drain issue on your car with other OBD devices? Seems that some F Types have the issue and others don't. My 2017 does have the issue (Eg after state inspection) - hence not wanting to try the iCarSoft
If yours gets it with other devices sometimes, but the icarsoft fixes it, then you've just saved me the hassle of the battery disconnect!!

 

Never had a problem with any device plugged into the OBDII port and never had any battery drain - ever.
That includes the VAP tune gizmo and an ELM 327 used to run the Torque app.
And I have never plugged in the iCarsoft after using one of those in an attempt to prevent/stop battery drain as there was never any drain to start with.
Last but not least there are no "emissions" or "roadworthy" inspections at all in my neck of the woods so no Gummint or "official" device has ever been connected to my OBDII port.