Is this from the V6 or V8 manual? I have a copy of the V6 manual someone had posted a long time prior.
The service advisor said that they had to remove the supercharger to gain access to replace the cooler.

 

It is for the AJ133 V8 SC, either from the 2010-2011 XFR Workshop Manual or the AJ133 Technical Training doc both of which I have, it just happened to be a pic I had already saved some time ago. The V8 in the F-Type is essentially unchanged since it was first sold in 2009.
The V6 oil cooler is identical, and yes they both sit deep in the V under the SC.
And the V6 manual you have is odds on to be mine!

 

Thanks for sharing that manual!

 

I don’t get it. How can any cool air pass through that plate cooler if it’s imbedded between the V? Or is it a water to oil cooler?

 

Yep, it's water to oil and part of the whole coolant system, see this text from the AJ133 Technical Training doc:

Coolant Flow
From the coolant pump, coolant flows into the oil cooler
and each cylinder head, where the most heat is available
for rapid coolant warm-up. The thermostat controls flow
through the engine and the heater circuit until optimum
temperature is achieved. At the rear of the cylinder heads
the flow splits between the cylinder block and the heater
circuit. The cylinder block coolant then flows forwards
to the outlet ports and merges with the heater return flow
at the coolant pump inlet. When the thermostat is closed,
the coolant returns directly to the pump through the
bypass on the thermostat housing. When the thermostat
is open, the coolant returns to the pump via the vehicle’s
radiator. A coolant drain plug is installed on the rear left
side of the cylinder block.
Cold, low-pressure coolant is drawn from the radiator by
a belt-driven water pump. This is distributed through a
coolant circuit that includes the engine, oil cooler, cabin
heater, and coolant reservoir.

 

Having the same issue, excessive heated plastic/evaporated coolant smell from engine bay and AC vents. Diagnostic $2,000 Engine Oil Cooler replacement, I plan to do the repair myself as the oil cooler is only a $350 part, refer to page 7607 V6S pdf repair manual that one of the members graciously posted on this forum.

FYI - My car has 58k miles, experienced a low coolant warning two months ago, dealer repaired an outlet plastic pipe top front of engine and some ancillaries, After the repair and some miles I noticed the expansion reservoir level below the MIN mark and heated plastic smell from the engine bay and sporadically coolant whiffs through the AC vents, which I originally attributed to coolant residue caused by the repair, a further diagnostic pointed at the engine oil cooler and a slight leak at the thermostat housing which I also plan to replace. Dealer showed me with a flashlight coolant (looked like just water and not coolant) at the valley around the engine oil cooler. Note - I'm not 100% positive the oil cooler is at fault since the puddled fluid at the valley around the engine oil cooler looked like water to me (clear not orange or green) which could have collected there after the tech cleaned the engine bay prior to the diagnostic since I also noticed water droplets in other areas. Question here is how to diagnose that the oil cooler is leaking, those UV/die/flashlight kits work?

 

I just wanted to update that after the Engine Oil Cooler was replaced, I've had the chance to drive it about a half dozen times under different conditions (crawling in traffic, sporadic sprints, 20 - 40 minutes of continuous driving).
The smell has not returned. The CEL turned out to be a defective O2 sensor which needed replacement.
I can't help with the diagnostics though.

 

Thank you Twitch, I’m so glad I found your post. What a coincidence have the same issue at the same time of heated plastic smell due to faulty oil cooker. How much was the repair? Do you mind posting the repair bill? as I’m replacing the cooler myself and I want to know which parts they changed. Just for the oil cooler I’m being quoted $2,000, plus another $700 to replace thermostat housing.and $600 recommended to replace water-pump.

Whats the mileage of your vehicle? V6 or V8?

 

Picked up the car yesterday from dealer, drove home to start the repair, I took some underhood temperatures and the small diameter coolant hard plastic lines on top the engine in the front and the large plastic water pipe were very hot in the 180 to 190F range ! Is this normal? It was only 20 miles from the dealer and I could not touch the plastic lines for more than a second.

It’s obvious now my oil cooker is leaking after further inspection last night, would this leak introduce air in the system and cause those high temps?

Cold coolant level was 1 mm above the MIN mark this morning per pic.

 

I’ve found two leak detection dyes, one made for Dex-Cool and the tradicional coolant, which dye is compatible with our coolant?



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M4E0VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_darzDbF0G80HF

 

Sorry for the late reply. The replacement was done under warranty so they are listed as no charge. The codes used were cryptic but are as follows:
C2Z25033 Cooler-Oil
AJ811904 Gasket-Oil Coole
C2Z18658 TUBE
AJ811948 GASKET
AJ811576 GASKET
AJ811590 GASKET
C2Z28265 GASKET
C2Z28262 O-RING

They had to remove the supercharger and drain and refill the engine oil. There was a bit of text that I assumed was for internal purposes to indicate the diagnostics to determine the engine oil cooler leak would have been around $750. My car is a V8 and it occurred around 38.000 kms.

 

^Thanks for the info Twitchf00t, really helpful !

 

Twenty miles is plenty of time to get the coolant up to normal operating temperature. You'd probably see those temperatures in five. I haven't checked the operating pressure, but would expect normal coolant temperature to be at least 205. Maybe I'll grab my laser thermometer and check that out today.

 

The V8 was designed to be a very quick warm-up. Clever jaguar engineers.

 

Steve I just did, ambient temp is 80F. Marked coolant lines are at 200F. I'm curious to see your readings.

 

My coolant temps are almost always >200F, so I’m not surprised by the temperature of your coolant lines.

Could you please post a picture of what your leak looks like? Did you need to use a scope to get in there to see it? Thanks.

 

Dealer diagnostic accurate, purchased a cheap endoscope and took pics of leaking oil cooler first pic and thermostat housing.

 

The oil cooler leak looks pretty dry. Shouldn’t an active leak still be wet? Do you just need to change the oil cooler gasket or the whole cooler? Thanks.

 

That’s what I told the tech, cooler looks dry why not just replace the gasket ? He pointed at some droplets in the vicinity of the cooler but I’m not convinced hence I will pressure test cooler before replacement.