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Yes @TH3FRB it was for you. You have MOST not Ethernet. And you can play CDs - I am jealous!
For an alternative to your current DSP I recommend a Helix or MATCH UP 10 from Audiotec Fischer. You need at least 10 outputs from the DSP in case you want to utilize the center speaker and an additional subwoofer. You can easily manipulate the input and output signals using their software, which is the universally considered to be the best.
This is what I have, their latest model, and it sounds terrific:
I'm looking at a Match UP8. I'm only running the 3-way active up front and a single sub. At most I'd add some rear fill but I've already eliminated then rear speakers.
That would be perfect then! I have a MATCH UP 10 in my other car and it is awesome. If you want the add-on controller, I have an extra Director I don't need.
If you are buying new I recommend edge_custom_audio on EB, a truly outstanding seller.
I'm looking at a Match UP8. I'm only running the 3-way active up front and a single sub. At most I'd add some rear fill but I've already eliminated then rear speakers.
If you could swing it, I would definitely consider the Helix Next V Eight DSP. Way better and you will have a 14 channel DSP to grow into.
If you could swing it, I would definitely consider the Helix Next V Eight DSP. Way better and you will have a 14 channel DSP to grow into.
I'm getting the Match UP8 for $600. I'd consider the Next V Eight for under $1k just for the additional power but I can't imagine what I would ever want 14 channels for in this car.
Originally Posted by JagCode3
Yes @TH3FRB it was for you. You have MOST not Ethernet. And you can play CDs - I am jealous!
Got confirmation from mObridge that the DA1 MOST25 is what I need but they corrected that the black rectangle plug on the right side is actually the optical, not the tan double plug.
I mounted it where the JLR amp used to be (behind the seats center area) with zip ties, lots of padding and strips from a butyl sound dampener sheet to avoid rattles from the nearby subs, and used the power connector for the removed JLR amp to provide the ground, constant 12V and switched 12V for the DED. I also used this switched 12V to turn on the other components in the trunk. If you have a coupe you have many more options for mounting. @Jag Bass has the coupe so it would be interesting to see where he placed the DED.
Yeah - @Jag Bass has a coupe and actually lives near me. He has a newer MY where the amp is easier to access. Pretty sure his stock amp mounting bracket swings out like in the video I posted above. My 2017 it's stationary and I'd need to pull the entire back panel in the cockpit again to get access to the last screw to release it. I'm considering that route. It's just another opportunity to break a clip or introduce a rattle though.
Bit of an update for me - I got the mObridge DA-G2.Standard (https://mobridge.us/product/da-g2-standard-most25/) and my Match UP8 installed. It turns out the mObridge just runs off a constant 12v and uses the MOST25 data input as a turn-on signal, then generates a switched 12v output to trigger my amps. I piggybacked a fused 12c circuit off of the aux fuse box in the boot where I've got all the gear installed so it's pretty clean without needing to tap any stock wires. It took a couple of weeks to get the mObridge working correctly but tech support eventually got me an updated firmware that resolved the issue. For anyone that might go this route in the future, the DIP switch settings in the printer manual as well as (different) settings on their web site are incorrect for the F-type so you may need to get in touch with them. Or maybe they will update to match the new firmware. For now I'm just running a clean flat signal while I finish fabricating my final sub enclosure. Once that's done I'm going to have Jeffery Hald at Total Tuning do a remote tune.
Hey @JagCode3 - I know this is an older post, but can I ask why you decided to sell the DED? You ended up not using it? I am in the process of deciding whether I want to use one of these, or take the high-level outs from the factory amp. I would prefer the cleaner signal off the DED, but now I'm curious what your thinking/experience was.
Work with me for a minute as my car audio knoweldge is entirely from the 80s and 90s.
A DSP amp can take the signal from the factory system and allow manipulation to improve the sound quality greatly, as seen in some of the Cambridge videos. Is the Digital Decoder just to give the DSP amp a cleaner signal? How great is the difference?
Work with me for a minute as my car audio knoweldge is entirely from the 80s and 90s.
A DSP amp can take the signal from the factory system and allow manipulation to improve the sound quality greatly, as seen in some of the Cambridge videos. Is the Digital Decoder just to give the DSP amp a cleaner signal? How great is the difference?
While this is true, it's always better to start with a flat unprocessed signal to begin with. This is what the DED does in the Jaguar. It replaces the factory amplifier and connects directly to the IMC. It allow you to pass the decoded digital signal via toslink fiber or digital coax directly to your aftermarket DSP.
I can tell you for a fact that the DED is a much cleaner signal than the previous setup which was factory speaker level from Jag Amp to Audio Control D6.1200 DSP amp. That relied on deconstructing the dsp pricessing from the Jag amp to get a flat signal.
@xenonaut I mentioned in an earlier post (#23 above) that I kept it: "I ended up reinstalling my DED after experimenting with the Meridian OEM amp and speakers. The difference between the OEM sound system and a DSP tuned system using the DED as the flat output is night and day. I just had to hear it again to confirm." I was considering a DuDu7 to completely replace the head unit altogether but decided against it.
If you do decide to use the outputs from the OEM amp you will need to analyze and process them to make the signal flat into your DSP. Audiotec Fischer products and software make this relatively easy, but there is a learning curve if you haven't done it before. If you are a music lover, it is worth the effort. I really enjoyed learning about SQ and tuning during this project. The DED is so much easier than messing with your input signals, without worrying about distortion also. I must also give a shout out to @Jag Bass who helped me figure out a few things during the process.
@eeeeek Yes and Yes. You can clean up the signals from the OEM amp then tune the sound using a DSP. Time alignment to the driver's ears from each speaker, polarity, gain level, and frequency curves can be changed based on the cabin listening environment. It's a fair amount of work though. The DED takes the digital signal from the head unit (not OEM amp) and sends it unaltered to the aftermarket DSP/Amp.
For those who believe "forget the music, just listen to the engine" I did that for 2 years before taking the plunge into SQ for my F-Type. I like to listen to music as lossless as possible and with the ability to equalize on the fly, but the Meridian stereo was really lacking so remained off during those 2 years.
