Always a good idea to put your car type/model in your signature so we know what you are asking about...There are lots of variants.

As stated you can run upper or lower or both pulleys. Upper - no requirement for tune, but lower or both need an ECU tune. There are several vendors producing pulleys.

Good luck,
DC

 

I don’t believe there’s enough room down there to install a 15% pulley.

 

I have not seen small top pulley on ebay - Does it run the standard belt?What Is the power gain on a V6 3.0 335HP?

 

Hi Chris,

As I mentioned in my emails to you, the upper pulley on a V6 is already 62mm (compared to 65mm for the V8.) Going to a smaller pulley than that is definitely not recommended, as you start to run into significant issues with belt wrap.

 

Roger that Stuart
My master Jag technician doesn't want me to do pulleys at all. I may still buy the software. Is the software still the same for no pulley upgrade? I believe just the software gives 420HP
Am talking to my exhaust guy this week regarding de-cat

 

when considering a pulley dont mess with the upper pulley ,only install the lower crank pulley , you will never have a issue

 

Thanks for the video

 

Theoretically, would this still be an issue with a larger lower pulley?


For completion:
I’m aware of the warnings against dual pulley the v6, however I do wonder if with additional cooling via wmi and a better coolant pump (as well as possibly a strictly water injection pre blower) would allow gains with a dual pulley set up. As mention somewhere in this forum, the Audi world runs dual pulleys pushing the r1320 past its published max with success.

 

Additional cooling is not going to do anything to address belt wrap issues. I can tell you that our datalogging capabilities have allowed us to detect marginal slip on V8 vehicles equipped with dual pulley setups - that is a 62MM upper pulley, with the same lower pulley. The V6 already has a 62mm upper pulley so if you shave the snout and go smaller, you will definitely start to see belt wrap issues and I would be very surprised if you don't see belt slip. We are very familiar with the 1320 Audi setups as Chris drives an S4, and we have pulley setups for that & tuning and so on ourselves. There's more than just the pulley size in play here, it's also the belt routing, tensioner design & pressure it can apply etc. If you want to ignore the research we have done, feel free to do so but I can tell you that the marginal return for an upper pulley on a V6 is very low, and the likelihood of issues relatively high.

We are working on several possible solutions, but they are some ways off still.

 

Appreciate the explanation. For clarification it was sort of a two part inquiry:

1st would belt wrap be an issue with upsized crank pulley: that was answered

2nd was more or less, would better cooling allow gains to be seen with dual pulleys? (mechanical issues aside (ie belt wrap) If I’m inferring correctly it sounds like it may be possible, once belt wrap is addressed.

Up until now the warnings/hurdles I’ve read pertained to supercharger efficiency / heat issues rather than belt wrap. I’m glad the datalogger was developed. Can’t wait to use it 🥂





I was speaking

 

I am getting ready to do my crank pulley and tune install. Instructions say that you should go back to original tune before going to dealer just in case they change the baseline tune. From reading this thread, it seems that the original tune along with the larger crank pulley won't create any issues as long as you are not flogging the car. Just wanted to double check it is fine to have the original tune with the larger crank pulley for relatively brief periods of time. Stuart? Thanks!

 

You CAN run the car with a larger Crank Pulley and OEM tune. And quite honestly, I would not waste time removing the tune before going to the dealer. THEY WILL BE ABLE TO TELL, REGARDLESS. Even without the VAP tune, the Supercharger is over-spinning, and the ECU is adjusting for it, as well as storing info about that. It will show up at the dealer as being outside of normal parameters. They will know; I can assure you.

If you want to have the dealer inspect the car; it’s best to leave the mod file on the ECU. The mod file will mask a P167F code. If you flash back to stock, the dealer will see this code as soon as connected and before diagnostics even begin. The only downside of leaving a mod file on the ECU; is if the dealer does an update, the Vtech device becomes bricked and won't recognize your car again, and you will need to buy a new VTech Device. VAP sells them for ~$250.

DC

 

Hello DC,

very interesting! Thanks for this information. Last year I only had a modified software (Stage1) from VelocityAP on it,
with an original pulley. Before the service, I put the old software back on. There was no software update from the
Jaguar dealer. But did my dealer notice during service that I had a different software on it? Or does the Jaguar
dealer only recognize that if an update is being applied to my F Type?

Now I've also built in Stage2 from Velocity, with a larger pulley. I'll leave the software on and tell the Jaguar dealer
not to update my F Type under any circumstances. I don't know if I need the H239 update. I have a V8 R AWD
MY 2017 with a production date of June 2016.

According to the Internet on the Jaguar Homepage Service, no update is planned for my vehicle. Before the service,
I will ask the dealer whether something is known.

BR and thank you so much for your answer

Andi

 

When you load the original back the dealer can see that it's what is expected, but they can also tell that at some point a non-authorized device was used to make changes. The P0167F code is there "forever" even if the tune is reverted to stock.

 

"The P0167F code is there "forever" even if the tune is reverted to stock."
This is true, and also why you want to leave the VAP tune ON, as the tune actually masks that code. When you flash back to OEM ECU file, it is immediately flagged to the tech.

DC

 

I haven't looked for the code when the tune is loaded and won't dispute your statement, although I might go check it myself ;^) My dealer's service department has known about my tune for years now. That ship sailed, not that I'd want to hide anything from them. My SA is someone I know from motorcycle racing but hadn't seen in years until I brought my car in for it's first appointment.

On loading back to stock it's definitely there. It can be "cleared" with the VAP tool but immediately returns. I had some discussions with Chris about this, the upshot being i accepted that "it is what it is." Stuart's caution about a software update at the dealer while the tune is in place rendering the handheld programmer useless is worth mentioning.

 

Yes...Agree...That was what I meant by this: The only downside of leaving a mod file on the ECU; is if the dealer does an update, the Vtech device becomes bricked and won't recognize your car again, and you will need to buy a new VTech Device. VAP sells them for ~$250.

DC

 

Apologies. I didn't scroll back far enough, or did but forgot because I've got the attention span of a gnat these days.

What was the question?

 

Did you notice a decent improvement with your SVR? About to order stage 2 from VAP.

 

Hi

Is it possible to use an air ratchet to remove the 6 bolts after they have been cracked loose?