Installed PSS and changed the front alignment settings
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Miami
Installed PSS and changed the front alignment settings
This weekend I had some PSS tires installed on the SVR in the stock size. Those alone ride better, they are quieter and even the feel under braking is improved. The grip that's a no brainier a maximum .98(scary) to 1.12 with a couple points left in it. It's also more stable while cornering where before it felt a bit nervous.
I also asked for an alignment as the wheel just never felt centered and wandering at highway speeds. Just no on center feel at all, felt like to much of a luxury car. The car felt off balance one direction to the other when it was pushed.
I could see that I rolled over the edge of the PZeros front and rear. That's with 44PSI hot as it was delivered.
So dealing with all the various settings I went though with the XKR, I knew I need a touch more negative camber, more caster and probably zero out the toe.
When I saw the factory settings I almost fell over, some deltas are due to the springs settling and this also occurred with my coil overs after a few hundred miles. It's a normal occurrence I've seen with new springs without many miles.
Camber L -1.2 R -.7
Caster L 2.0 degrees R 2.3 degrees
Toe L-1/8 R-0
Based on setting up my XKR I requested the following for the front after looking at the factory Jaguar range.
Camber L -1.4 R -1.4
Caster L 7.0 R 7.0 which is the max value jag suggests. It may be better in the 6.0-6.5 range but the on center feel is much better and the car tracks much better on the highway. The strong on center feeling at 7.0 is just fine at high speeds but not for trolling though town. I may just have to get used to it
Toe L 0 R 0 this is my standard for road cars.
On street cars I always zero the front toe as its more responsive on turn in and combined with higher caster keeps gives it some straight line stability that you loose going from the typical factory negative toe. You could also go up to an +1/8" positive if turn in is an issue as it was in the XKR.
The rear doesn't really offer any movement, which is fine as I like a little negative toe as it makes the rear more stable. The rear also tends to want to go towards positive under hard acceleration. The rear camber was good at -1.2 and -1.0 but combined with the toe it was probably the cause of the roll over to the sidewalls. Besides since its AWD I wanted to leave it alone for now. I would have preferred -1.2 on both rears but there is no adjustment as in the XKR.
The alignment made a huge difference, the steering doesn't drift anymore and the on center feel is strong, so a slight decrease in caster will happen next unless I get used to it at 7.
As far as the camber being at -1.4 I thought it may be to much, but considering the high vertical load on the fronts during cornering let me see how it works. With the high caster to assist in keeping that camber during wheel travel it worked like a charm. Turn in is sharp and the wheel comes back to center smoothly coming out of corners.
It transformed the handling beyond the just tires, the steering feels sharper and at higher speeds the caster helps you track out quickly and accurately. You can feel much more through the wheel now which is what I was after.
I still haven't pushed it hard on the track(120ish) but haven't held anything back in corners.
I also asked for an alignment as the wheel just never felt centered and wandering at highway speeds. Just no on center feel at all, felt like to much of a luxury car. The car felt off balance one direction to the other when it was pushed.
I could see that I rolled over the edge of the PZeros front and rear. That's with 44PSI hot as it was delivered.
So dealing with all the various settings I went though with the XKR, I knew I need a touch more negative camber, more caster and probably zero out the toe.
When I saw the factory settings I almost fell over, some deltas are due to the springs settling and this also occurred with my coil overs after a few hundred miles. It's a normal occurrence I've seen with new springs without many miles.
Camber L -1.2 R -.7
Caster L 2.0 degrees R 2.3 degrees
Toe L-1/8 R-0
Based on setting up my XKR I requested the following for the front after looking at the factory Jaguar range.
Camber L -1.4 R -1.4
Caster L 7.0 R 7.0 which is the max value jag suggests. It may be better in the 6.0-6.5 range but the on center feel is much better and the car tracks much better on the highway. The strong on center feeling at 7.0 is just fine at high speeds but not for trolling though town. I may just have to get used to it
Toe L 0 R 0 this is my standard for road cars.
On street cars I always zero the front toe as its more responsive on turn in and combined with higher caster keeps gives it some straight line stability that you loose going from the typical factory negative toe. You could also go up to an +1/8" positive if turn in is an issue as it was in the XKR.
The rear doesn't really offer any movement, which is fine as I like a little negative toe as it makes the rear more stable. The rear also tends to want to go towards positive under hard acceleration. The rear camber was good at -1.2 and -1.0 but combined with the toe it was probably the cause of the roll over to the sidewalls. Besides since its AWD I wanted to leave it alone for now. I would have preferred -1.2 on both rears but there is no adjustment as in the XKR.
The alignment made a huge difference, the steering doesn't drift anymore and the on center feel is strong, so a slight decrease in caster will happen next unless I get used to it at 7.
As far as the camber being at -1.4 I thought it may be to much, but considering the high vertical load on the fronts during cornering let me see how it works. With the high caster to assist in keeping that camber during wheel travel it worked like a charm. Turn in is sharp and the wheel comes back to center smoothly coming out of corners.
It transformed the handling beyond the just tires, the steering feels sharper and at higher speeds the caster helps you track out quickly and accurately. You can feel much more through the wheel now which is what I was after.
I still haven't pushed it hard on the track(120ish) but haven't held anything back in corners.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 84
From: San Diego
This weekend I had some PSS tires installed on the SVR in the stock size. Those alone ride better, they are quieter and even the feel under braking is improved. The grip that's a no brainier a maximum .98(scary) to 1.12 with a couple points left in it. It's also more stable while cornering where before it felt a bit nervous.
I also asked for an alignment as the wheel just never felt centered and wandering at highway speeds. Just no on center feel at all, felt like to much of a luxury car. The car felt off balance one direction to the other when it was pushed.
I could see that I rolled over the edge of the PZeros front and rear. That's with 44PSI hot as it was delivered.
So dealing with all the various settings I went though with the XKR, I knew I need a touch more negative camber, more caster and probably zero out the toe.
When I saw the factory settings I almost fell over, some deltas are due to the springs settling and this also occurred with my coil overs after a few hundred miles. It's a normal occurrence I've seen with new springs without many miles.
Camber L -1.2 R -.7
Caster L 2.0 degrees R 2.3 degrees
Toe L-1/8 R-0
Based on setting up my XKR I requested the following for the front after looking at the factory Jaguar range.
Camber L -1.4 R -1.4
Caster L 7.0 R 7.0 which is the max value jag suggests. It may be better in the 6.0-6.5 range but the on center feel is much better and the car tracks much better on the highway. The strong on center feeling at 7.0 is just fine at high speeds but not for trolling though town. I may just have to get used to it
Toe L 0 R 0 this is my standard for road cars.
On street cars I always zero the front toe as its more responsive on turn in and combined with higher caster keeps gives it some straight line stability that you loose going from the typical factory negative toe. You could also go up to an +1/8" positive if turn in is an issue as it was in the XKR.
The rear doesn't really offer any movement, which is fine as I like a little negative toe as it makes the rear more stable. The rear also tends to want to go towards positive under hard acceleration. The rear camber was good at -1.2 and -1.0 but combined with the toe it was probably the cause of the roll over to the sidewalls. Besides since its AWD I wanted to leave it alone for now. I would have preferred -1.2 on both rears but there is no adjustment as in the XKR.
The alignment made a huge difference, the steering doesn't drift anymore and the on center feel is strong, so a slight decrease in caster will happen next unless I get used to it at 7.
As far as the camber being at -1.4 I thought it may be to much, but considering the high vertical load on the fronts during cornering let me see how it works. With the high caster to assist in keeping that camber during wheel travel it worked like a charm. Turn in is sharp and the wheel comes back to center smoothly coming out of corners.
It transformed the handling beyond the just tires, the steering feels sharper and at higher speeds the caster helps you track out quickly and accurately. You can feel much more through the wheel now which is what I was after.
I still haven't pushed it hard on the track(120ish) but haven't held anything back in corners.
I also asked for an alignment as the wheel just never felt centered and wandering at highway speeds. Just no on center feel at all, felt like to much of a luxury car. The car felt off balance one direction to the other when it was pushed.
I could see that I rolled over the edge of the PZeros front and rear. That's with 44PSI hot as it was delivered.
So dealing with all the various settings I went though with the XKR, I knew I need a touch more negative camber, more caster and probably zero out the toe.
When I saw the factory settings I almost fell over, some deltas are due to the springs settling and this also occurred with my coil overs after a few hundred miles. It's a normal occurrence I've seen with new springs without many miles.
Camber L -1.2 R -.7
Caster L 2.0 degrees R 2.3 degrees
Toe L-1/8 R-0
Based on setting up my XKR I requested the following for the front after looking at the factory Jaguar range.
Camber L -1.4 R -1.4
Caster L 7.0 R 7.0 which is the max value jag suggests. It may be better in the 6.0-6.5 range but the on center feel is much better and the car tracks much better on the highway. The strong on center feeling at 7.0 is just fine at high speeds but not for trolling though town. I may just have to get used to it
Toe L 0 R 0 this is my standard for road cars.
On street cars I always zero the front toe as its more responsive on turn in and combined with higher caster keeps gives it some straight line stability that you loose going from the typical factory negative toe. You could also go up to an +1/8" positive if turn in is an issue as it was in the XKR.
The rear doesn't really offer any movement, which is fine as I like a little negative toe as it makes the rear more stable. The rear also tends to want to go towards positive under hard acceleration. The rear camber was good at -1.2 and -1.0 but combined with the toe it was probably the cause of the roll over to the sidewalls. Besides since its AWD I wanted to leave it alone for now. I would have preferred -1.2 on both rears but there is no adjustment as in the XKR.
The alignment made a huge difference, the steering doesn't drift anymore and the on center feel is strong, so a slight decrease in caster will happen next unless I get used to it at 7.
As far as the camber being at -1.4 I thought it may be to much, but considering the high vertical load on the fronts during cornering let me see how it works. With the high caster to assist in keeping that camber during wheel travel it worked like a charm. Turn in is sharp and the wheel comes back to center smoothly coming out of corners.
It transformed the handling beyond the just tires, the steering feels sharper and at higher speeds the caster helps you track out quickly and accurately. You can feel much more through the wheel now which is what I was after.
I still haven't pushed it hard on the track(120ish) but haven't held anything back in corners.
Thread Starter
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Veteran Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,011
Likes: 492
From: Miami
It made a world of difference, I also thought the steering was a bit twitchy at higher speeds.
Now its much smoother on rough roads, even in Dynamic which is where I keep it 99% of the time.
Now its much smoother on rough roads, even in Dynamic which is where I keep it 99% of the time.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 190
Likes: 42
From: CA
I'm swapping the OEM Pirellis on my SVR with Michelin PS4s on Thursday. I also have noticed significant twitchiness at high speed. The car just does not feel stable or planted whatsoever. Tires will solve part of it, but I definitely feel the alignment needs to be checked.
Anyone else with an SVR or AWD R have any specific alignment settings they're happy with?
Anyone else with an SVR or AWD R have any specific alignment settings they're happy with?
Glad to hear of your improvement in handling.
One minor point somegimes overlooked is when fitting new tyres even different brands it can be hard to determine objective differences as we're usually comparing part worn OEM tyres with new Michelin in this case.
When an alignment adjustment is also made then any differences whether perceived or measured can lead to confusion over whether the improvement could have been gained either just with different tyres or even with oem tyres with different alignment or whether both alignment and tyre contributed to differences (improvements).
One minor point somegimes overlooked is when fitting new tyres even different brands it can be hard to determine objective differences as we're usually comparing part worn OEM tyres with new Michelin in this case.
When an alignment adjustment is also made then any differences whether perceived or measured can lead to confusion over whether the improvement could have been gained either just with different tyres or even with oem tyres with different alignment or whether both alignment and tyre contributed to differences (improvements).