LOL, a 'unibrow'

Ours has that too, first time I noticed...

+++++++++

Correct position?
You should have parked with the valve stem on the bottom, to keep @scm happy.

 

GeorgeIII, when you removed the factory center caps did you have to remove the wheels and pop them out from the rear, or were you able to pry them out from the front ?

The reason I ask is that I am like SCM and a little OCD about the orientation of the center caps and a couple of mine do not align with the valve stems. I am considering using one of those plastic tools used to remove vehicle trim or interior pieces as I wouldn't want to scratch or damage anything trying to pry the caps off.

 

Some folk have reported using credit cards to pry them off from the front but I've never been able to do that - I always poke 'em through from the back.

 

My wife won't let me use her credit cards...



You are always best-off pushing the center caps off from the back-side, wheels removed.
Don't ask me how I know that.

 

Dwight,

Let me set the record straight. I epitomize OCD.

I could not remove my wheel caps from the front. That is, without destroying them. I am embarrassed to say how long it took me to come to that realization but the two options I had where to either destroy the caps or remove the wheels. I chose the latter.

This gave me the wonderful opportunity to clean my wheels and then insert the new caps. After all that work I can tell you it was well worth the effort. To me, the Raymax caps really make a a huge difference in the wheel's appearance.

For the wheels, they were done one at a time and I use a special lug nut socket as shown below. They protect the lug nuts and are much better than a standard socket. And, of course, they get torque down to the proper 92 pounds.

 

Same here with the centre cap removal, I have tried without removing the wheels but never succeeded.
Years ago I read on the Interwebz that you could stick some very strong tape on them then pull them straight off, so I bought some of the strongest tape I could find and gave it a go. Complete failure, it never even came close to pulling a cap off before the tape let go.
I have been using a plastic coated 1/2" drive 19 mm hex socket for over 10 years now and would never use anything else on the wheel nuts.

 

I guess I'm either going to have to buy a low profile floor jack or wait until I get new tires and then carefully explain to the installation tech how to pop off the center caps and reinstall them aligned the way I want them. My current floor jack won't fit under my Jag.
Good tip on the sleeved lug nut sockets. I also have one with a nylon or plastic sleeve and use it with my torque wrench to ensure that the dealer torqued the nuts properly after doing an inspection.

 

I ask the tyre tech to let me refit the caps (the balancing machine needs them removed) - they're usually quite willing to pander to my whims! The most impressive one was when I had the wheels refurbed on my previous XKR - the guy actually knew how the caps should be aligned and when I mentioned it to him he just said it was obvious!

 

Drive up on to a piece of 2 by 8 or 2 by 10, then the jack should fit.

 

I too have a 'nylon' sleeved socket for the lug nuts. 19mm I believe. But, one could always have shrink tubing on a regular socket or even duct tape to prevent marring the wheels....

 

You can use a plastic trim tool or even a large cable tie to get under the edge of the stock centre cap to pry it off.
I have two sets of these, one with led and one without, bought them a few years ago, still work perfectly. Look better and last longer than the cheaper ebay ones, and cheaper than new OEM as well.