I'm trying to identify which surfaces are genuine leather in my '16 R Convertible. It has the performance seats, but doesn't have the extended leather package (headliner on crossbar above the windshield is mesh/fabric, so that's what I'm guessing? Don't have the original window sticker...) My gut says that any surface with the contrast stitch (camel) is real leather (including the door pulls and grab bar), but anything with black stitch (most of the dash) is some faux material? Or is it all leather? Want to make sure I use the right product/processes to keep it maintained. Anyone know off-hand?

 

PM me with the last 5 digits of your VIN and email address and I'll send you a list of your options.

 

Sent, thanks!

 

Would you do the same for me?

Thanks

 

If you wouldn't mind, I'll PM you my VIN as well. I'm unable to access Topix from out of the country.

 

So looks like my vehicle DOES have the extended leather package (thanks Unhingd) - anyone know if that big panel above the glove box is leather? I think that's the only panel I'm unsure about...the rest should be leather.

 

If you have the full leather option then, YES, the panel above the glovebox is indeed leather-covered. The seats are completely leather covered - every part of the seat, not just the seating surface; the curved door panel inserts and armrests are leather-covered. The headliner and sunvisors (at least in the coupe) are leather-covered. The console grab handle is leather-covered...and more.
So all of this should be treated with a good non-silicone leather conditioner. There are a number that qualify and everyone has his/her favourite. Mine? Lexol Conditioner and AutoGlym Leather Balm, the latter is especially good.
The purpose of the regular use of conditioner is to keep the surface of the leather soft and supple, and if the conditioner is properly formulated, to penetrate the surface (yes, there is a coating on the leather but it is permeable to a certain extent). If the leather surface becomes dry and brittle (especially the case in convertibles exposed to the sun for prolonged periods) it is more prone to abrasion and cracking and shrinkage.
My experience: concours restoration of more than 20 Jaguars.

 

Thanks Gregory!

 

I wish I had leather, Darn Faux Suede and vinyl everywhere, Kinda unacceptable In a $100,000 Car but what do I know.

 

For leather protection, I highly recommend coating it with something like Cquartz leather or on a slightly more DIY-er friendly plane, Gyeon Leather Coat. Particularly lighter colors, the denim transfer and things like that are much easier to clean, and no greasy/shiny effect. Leather is not supposed to be shiny!

 

Dye transfer only seems to occur with the expensive but cheaply made designer jeans. No such problem with Levi’s, Wranglers or even Kirklands.

 

I can confirm that my Wranglers and Levi jeans have not stained my white seats.