X2

I just applied the graphite lube again! Thanks for the reminder.

The video referenced above doesn't accurately show the correct way to protect the bodywork, or the correct amount of insertion into the keyhole to allow the key to turn. The 'handle' needs to be much less than 90 degrees, as shown, for it to turn the cylinder.




So, its possible that there are several issues with the physical keyMake sure you protect the door, as shown, when you try the emergency key.

 

FYI, I just discovered that if you pull the door handle out far enough, you can insert the key such that the folding part points up, not down, and you can then unfold the key handle a full 90 degrees for better leverage in turning it.

I had assumed the key could work if the car’s battery is dead, but it appears to actuate the electric lock/unlock. And, as my car was locked when I tried it, it set off the alarm.

 

That wasn't the experience with mine - when I turned the key I expected the door to give some indication of unlocking, but it just seemed to release some interlock and I had to pull the handle as usual to open the door. The alarm only sounded when I popped the hood and power was applied to the underhood terminals - the tech told me to stand by with the fob as he made the connections.

 

I wanted to give you all an update on my battery issues. To recap, I had a dead battery and bought a new AGM. I installed it myself and everything worked fine the first day. Day 2 and 3 were non-driving days. When I went to open my car, nothing happened. It acted as though the battery was dead, even though it was brand new. Got into the car and started charging the battery, took a while until I just decided to jump start it. Drove it to the dealership where they had it for a few days to test the battery and everything else. Turns out that the battery terminal for the negative post is smaller than the JLR battery that originally came with the car. The clamp on the post was not tight enough, though I don't know how that's possible since I made sure it was tight.

Anyway, I paid the fee with blood and a smile and went on my merry way to enjoy the car again. Now I have learned from reading everyone's post to keep the car on a trickle charger when the car is not in use. I will upgrade to a CTEK charger because that sounds way cooler than what I currently have (which works well).

 

What size battery did you install?
Sounds like it was not the correct one?
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I got a 900 amp AGM from Costco. They enter in all the details of the car and it was compatible. I wasn't about to drop over $300 for a battery at JLR. That's just weird to me.

 

Not weird - insane!

 

FYI if your metal keys do not work a competent locksmith can get the key code from jaguar and create new emergency keys from blanks off ebay. Jaguar USA said it would be 4-6 weeks to get them, and I am sure the locksmith is cheaper since mine was <100 usd for 2 new emergency keys.

 

The issue of 'small' terminals on replacement batteries, causing poor connections, is not new.

BTDT on other cars over the years.


If you can 'twist' a terminal without loosening it, you need battery post shims.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

If the terminal halves 'touch' after tightening the lock-bolt, that is another red flag that shims may be required in the future.

 

Question - I am thinking of replacing the battery in the F-Type soonish, it is the original now 10 years old and a couple of times just recently the start up "died" on me, so I was thinking that just in case the new battery I already have has too small terminals I could cut long strips of aluminium foil and wrap them around the terminals.
Workable idea or bad idea????

 

I think that plain foil is too thin...but I have gotten relatives' batteries connected tightly with strips of aluminum [aluminium] beer can.
Drink the beer before snipping the can.



I only used small pieces of beer can to contact HALF of the terminal. That way things were less likely to come loose.

 

Hmm. In practice, it may be ok. But here in the States, we’re always on the lookout for houses that were wired using aluminum (back in the 70s), as it can be problematic. Here are the issues that could apply in your case…

From https://www.nachi.org/aluminum-wiring.htm

 

Nah, I was talking about wrapping a strip of foil around each terminal many many times.
But your beer can idea sounds interesting as I usually have plenty of empties to experiment with!

 

No what size of battery?
My XJ uses an H8 battery.
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The only time I had mysterious battery troubles it was due to this. The posts are tapered, so when the terminal clamp is spread apart it will slide further down, and the pinch bolt will tighten it down properly (with the ends not touching).

There is actually a special tool to do this called, unsurprisingly, a "battery terminal spreader."

 

Update:
The old/original battery started to play up even more - starter motor would just die on initial crank but then fire up OK on the next try - so yesterday I finally whacked the replacement battery in.
No problems (well one, see below) and no need to wrap the terminals in anything, the leads went on nice and tight. But I did tap the leads hard down onto the terminals first to make sure they were fully seated.
Got 10 years almost to the day out of the original battery so not bad and a testament to regularly using a battery tender/maintainer.
The one problem - using my iCarsoft LR V2.0 the BMS reset would not work, it failed on the last step time after time.
Dunno why but no biggie, from all my reading the BMS resets itself after four or five drive cycles.

 

Ok people, I had the notorious battery dying issue with my 2016 F-type S Coupe. When I first got the car (with a brand new battery mind you) everything seemed fine. Shortly after, I started to get the low battery warning to start the car after it had sat a few days. I charged the battery back to full with a battery charger and the problem went away till the car sat for another 3 days and had completely killed the battery. Mind you it had just been fully charged 3 days prior. I had since installed a battery tender and things seemed to be going fine so long as I remember to plug it back in after returning from a drive. I came out one morning to find that the battery tender had a fault and was not charging. Of course the battery was now dead again! I ordered a well reviewed ODB2 code reader so that I could check a few other things since I was replacing the coolant pipes and servicing the SC The reader that I bought is a bi directional device I could make changes and operate some functions in the car for troubleshooting purposes. I found a setting to reset the Battery Monitor System and decided to give it a try. Guess what??? All my battery woes disappeared!
No more low battery warnings, no more dead battery, nothing! I have left the car sitting for 2 weeks and it still starts right up and there is no indication that the battery was low. There seems to be a software quirk in these Jags that leaves some systems active 24/7 if the battery is replaced and the system isn't reset (calibrated) for the new battery. I no longer need a battery tender and I no longer have that nervous pit in my stomach when I go out to take a drive in the Jag. I just hop in and go, no more drama.
So if you are having this issue (so many do) and you are at your wits end, get yourself one of these (https://a.co/d/jh2YoyW) and explore your vehicle system. You will learn a lot about your vehicle management systems and will have confidence that you can solve many a problem by simply having access to these systems. It doesn't appear that many dealership technicians have enough experience to realize how these systems work either and are totally perplexed by the problem. They might know what's going on and seize the opportunity to sell you a new, overpriced battery when simply resetting the BMS will solve your problem.