F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

Lower Coolant Outlet Pipe Replacement Guide

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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 12:17 AM
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Default Lower Coolant Outlet Pipe Replacement Guide

F-Type Coolant Leak and Lower Water Outlet Replacement

For a guide to removal of the supercharger search for my guide on JaguarForums or see the version here https://classicairheads.com/blog/202...r-replacement/

The coolant leak from lower water outlet pipe (y-pipe) is unfortunately quite common. This lower y shaped hard plastic pipe is prone to failure resulting in coolant pooling on the block in the valley between the two banks of cylinders.
This pipe is connected to the upper water outlet pipe (which you can see on top of the engine) via an intermediate section of aluminium pipe with two o-rings.
My y connector failed at the base where it inserts into the block, but the pipe can crack anywhere. It should be noted that the rubber hoses tend not to fail early, just the hard moulded plastic pipes.

In response to the frequent failing, both the lower and the upper outlet pipes have been redesigned- the lower pipe has since been replaced with a slightly stouter version (part # AJ8 13865) and the upper pipe replaced with part # AJ8 13917 and the intermediate pipe has been scrapped completely (the two new pipes simply join together). This is important because if your lower pipe has cracked you will have to replace both the lower and upper pipes with the new parts (the old upper pipe won’t join to the new lower pipe).
Another site coolant leak is the thin hard plastic overflow piping going from the back of the upper water outlet pipe back to the coolant reservoir. In my 5 year old car these were so brittle they broke upon handling. They may have been leaking already. Replacement part is # T2R5910

Unfortunately replacing a relatively cheap coolant pipe is made very difficult by its location- under the supercharger. To access the lower pipe the supercharger needs to be removed - see my other guide for this procedure.

Before you replace the lower pipe be sure to put your finger into the block coolant holes and feel around for any small pieces of broken pipe that might be sitting there. You don’t want those going through your coolant ways.

Some useful torque settings- the lower pipe screws into the block are 13Nm and the upper pipe screws are 10Nm.
Note also- for some reason one of the tabs on the new upper pipe is much thinner so the old screw wont work- you need a shorter (25mm) M8 bolt.

After putting everything back together fill the system to the max fill line in the reservoir using a RED/ORANGE coolant which meets the standard M97B44-D ( i used generic it's cheaper than oem)
Then run the engine with the heater on full blast until warm air comes out of the vents. This will bleed the system. Turn off the engine and let cool a little. The level of coolant will have gone down as bubbles came out of the system so top up again. Repeat this process again until the level stops dropping.












 

Last edited by adent; Dec 29, 2020 at 12:30 AM.
Old Dec 29, 2020 | 04:54 AM
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Another great write up, thanks!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 07:45 AM
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Thanks for the write up.

edited: somehow missed the link with the instructions for the supercharger removal with needed part gasket part numbers. Thanks!
 

Last edited by Craaaazzy; Dec 29, 2020 at 07:50 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 09:17 AM
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Nice write up for the V-6's. I'm sure the parts and procedures are going to be different for the V-8's. Hopefully someone will do a good as job as you have done for the V-8's !!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2021 | 12:59 AM
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Hi,

any idea when they started using the modified Y-piece? Any VIN or production date? I recon the issue also affects engines that were put into other models, such as the XF or XJ. Apparently the issue was there already in the XK.
My F-Type R was build in July 2016 and I seriously consider changing the Y-piece for precaution.
thanks
chris
 
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Old Apr 1, 2021 | 07:32 AM
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All I can say is wow, thanks for the write up, this will come in handy when the time comes.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2021 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SS4PK
All I can say is wow, thanks for the write up, this will come in handy when the time comes.
If you have a free weekend, do it before the time comes. Will save you the cost of a tow, or in my case a new block.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2021 | 11:28 PM
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Why did they replace the C2z28536? Mine just failed and the car is down for the moment. With some research I found OEMparts and ordered this piece for a Whopping $37.

I have the “new” 2 pipe system but haven’t installed due to Jaguar talking about $1700 for installation after I bought em for $140.

the older model cost $37 and I’m pretty sure my guy will install it for $40..
 
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Old Nov 14, 2021 | 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan Ivgi
Why did they replace the C2z28536? Mine just failed and the car is down for the moment. With some research I found OEMparts and ordered this piece for a Whopping $37.

I have the “new” 2 pipe system but haven’t installed due to Jaguar talking about $1700 for installation after I bought em for $140.

the older model cost $37 and I’m pretty sure my guy will install it for $40..
Short answer, new design is less prone to failure.
Nonetheless, the installation is essentially the same for either version. You’ll need to remove the supercharger regardless, which is where the majority of cost comes. Not too difficult with the write up, just takes time and small hands
 
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Old Nov 14, 2021 | 05:16 AM
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You definitely don’t have to take out the supercharger. . It’s a top position piece.. as opposed to the newer two pipe system being underneath
 
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Old Nov 14, 2021 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan Ivgi
You definitely don’t have to take out the supercharger. . It’s a top position piece.. as opposed to the newer two pipe system being underneath
Ahh you mean the upper coolant pipe.

Both the redesigned and the old version have upper and lower portions. The lower one is more likely to fail. If your certain it’s only the upper part then go for it. Just don’t be surprised if at some point the lower portion fails.


 
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Old Nov 14, 2021 | 10:44 AM
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What model years does this tend to affect? I have an MY2017, had the dealer pressure check the coolant system, no issues, but have an appt. coming up and would like to be sure.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2021 | 03:04 PM
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I guess you should be able to see whether you're affected by looking at the shape of the pieces. I guess the old parts are the ones with the flat edges along the pipes in the pic above (correct me if I'm wrong though!).

I had a MY14 XF with the AJ126 engine previously and had this job done. If I recall correctly it was something like 6-7 hours of labour because the supercharger had to be removed. Got a bit pricey being done by an offical JLR dealer. :/ And then some time after that the water pump went which meant another supercharger off job. :/ So it's good to do it all once you're in there.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2021 | 03:41 PM
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Mines the 2015 model. Had it diagnosed so it’s for sure the upper portion that’s failing. That and I can see the coolant coming out from there. Didn’t know both had lower portions. Probably best to have the whole thing replaced at the same time to avoid removing SC twice :/
 
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Old Nov 14, 2021 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan Ivgi
Mines the 2015 model. Had it diagnosed so it’s for sure the upper portion that’s failing. That and I can see the coolant coming out from there. Didn’t know both had lower portions. Probably best to have the whole thing replaced at the same time to avoid removing SC twice :/
And....the water pump and supercharger coupling, 'while you are in there".


Does this sound like"Shipwrights disease"?

"Shipwrights Disease"
Goes something like this:

Sailor owns boat.
Boat has burned out light in galley.
Sailor decides to change bulb.
Sailor notices socket is corroded, decides to change socket.
Sailor notices wiring frayed while trying to change socket.
Sailor decides to change wiring.
Sailor notices galley ceiling slats are rotted while changing the
wire.
Sailor decides galley ceiling slats need changing.
Sailor notices .
this goes on and on and on and on and pretty soon, Sailor is
undertaking a
major renovation of his boat because of a burned out lightbulb.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2021 | 05:03 PM
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This sailor wants the best boat possible. What mileage do those usually need replacing?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 03:25 PM
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Amazing write-up! I will definitely be using this in the near future!
If I may ask, where did you order the parts from? Local dealership?

thanks!!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2021 | 07:38 AM
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Excellent write-up...
Just back from a 7,000 oil change and just been told my Y pipe should be replaced at next service in June. Glad to hear all about the upgrade part. Now wondering whether I should even wait for next service or get it done... 37,000 miles on my 17 coupe.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2021 | 08:15 AM
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Also add the rear water manifold to the replacement list. This also requires the SC to come off so just another part that is easy to do at the right time!
.
.
.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2021 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
Also add the rear water manifold to the replacement list. This also requires the SC to come off so just another part that is easy to do at the right time!
.
.
.
Good idea. Thanks...
 
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