So I installed my first mod today, a Bob's Oil Separator. You can find it here: https://bobsmachine.com/product/univ...oil-separator/
I had one of these on my 2013 Shelby GT500 and they work great.


Unlees you pay very close attention, you don't even notice that the crankcase vent line is diferent.



I used a 1 1/4" drill bit to open up the air box and installed 2 1" ID rubber grommets with a 1/8" grip. Then added some silicone sealant to keep the engine bay smells out.



I mounted the can inside the air box because Jaguar helpfully left two tapped holes that just happen to accept the mounting bracket screw.



I removed the outside frame of the air filter for clearance and because I have no idea what it actually does.



The can has a handy little drain valve on the bottom and there is plenty of room to get a cup underneath to collect the oil. I will update this post at 100, 500 and 1,000 miles to show how much oil is being kept out of the supercharger.

 

Are we certain the oil vapor isn't needed to provide a bit of lubrication for the SC?

 

Good job, looking forward to updates.
I just checked out the engine bay on my RHD V6 and that location is impossible.
The cabin filter is on the other side and instead that is where the brake master cylinder and reservoir sit, leaving zero room for a catch can.
But it looks like there is just enough room "inboard" of the brake cylinder and just under the RHS brace, ie at the very top/centre of the third pic, as that area in the V6 has a bit more room than the V8 due to the smaller supercharger and coolant jacket. Those with a RHD V8 might just be able to fit a small catch can in that spot but I reckon it would be a very tight squeeze.

 

I'd think oil vapours could be more of an issue for the throttle body than for the SC, though to my knowledge some chargers do have a build-in PCV valve.

Off-topic - you apparently don't have the hood airbags - would that be an EU only thingy?

 

Actually, the issue isn't oil vapor in the SC, it is oil vapor in the combustion chamber. Oil vapor reduces the octane of the fuel charge, which is critical in SC motors. So the catch can doesn't make power, but it keeps the ECU from pulling power. All moder motors have a "knock sensor" that knows when you get detonation in a cylinder and retards the timing to stop it. Oil vapor = lower octane = retarded timing = less power. It isn't needed for the SC as there are no rubbing parts in the air stream. The rotors in the SC don't touch each other and the other moving parts are oiled for life. Hope that makes sense.

 

Oiled for life...really?

Anyway oil vapour in the inlet tract from below the TB thru and into the SC coolers can be a very big issue because of soft carbon sludge build up.
When the SC coolers get clogged guess what, inefficient and little cooling effect on the air charge.

 

I actually asked that same question when I bought my 2013 Shelby GT500. Got schooled by the community pretty quick.

 

[QUOTE=jackra_1;2065689]Oiled for life...really?

Yep. Eaton builds these things with a small oil sump that keeps the front and rear bearings oiled. The front pulley drives gears on the two rotors, so both the gears and bearings need lubrication. It is a sealed system.

 

Anyway oil vapour in the inlet tract from below the TB thru and into the SC coolers can be a very big issue because of soft carbon sludge build up.
When the SC coolers get clogged guess what, inefficient and little cooling effect on the air charge.[/QUOTE]

That might be a big reason others have said these motors really lose life after 70K miles.

 

[QUOTE=EJag66;2065705]Yes you are correct. I was thinking of the older models. Although....https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-192793/

One other point is that an oil catch can might even lessen the effect of hard carbon build up on the inlet valves of DI engines.

 

Good thread, will be curious to see how much oil it collects. From the little bit of research I've done they seem to be a good idea, however they need to be maintained regularly, if they were to fill up with oil, they engine could suck a large amount of oil at once which would be bad. Perhaps as OP suggested, an overflow tube to a larger catch basin would work.

 

6K miles on oil catch can... about 10 drops of oil. Removed it... And it was driven hard.

 

That's what I would have expected.

 

Just checked my baffled catch can and a tad more than 10 drops as you can see. I estimate about 2,500-3,000 miles worth of mixed driving with little oil consumption.
Dont forget this is a 4.2 SC engine NOT a NA engine and not a DI engine.

SC engines seem to have more of an issue than NA engines.

Its not "pure" oil as you can see. Never the less all of that was prevented from clogging up the SC coolers etc.

Oh I started to pour out the catch can contents on that lid then realized quickly..............

 

Ouch! Looks like you have a head gasket leak (coolant to crankcase) to cause that much of an emulsion to accumulate over that short period of time.

 

I know that DI engine manufacturers paid a lot of attention to the earlier DI engine carbon build up issues caused by poor "waste oil vapor" management whereby the "unwashed" inlet valves built up hard carbon deposits rather rapidly. Audi in particular had rather severe problems with this.

So if my 2013 5.0 NA Rover engine is as good as your engine seems to be I will not waste time in installing an oil catch can.

 

I am pretty sure I do not. No coolant loss at all.

I would be interested to see if anyone else with a 4.2 SC engine has any oil catch can results.

I am going to do a couple of things.

I will check for coolant exhaust gas contamination and have ordered a kit.

Will also run car for 1,000 miles with my water/meth system turned off.

 

Have a look at this video for a non SC DI engine after 3,000 miles
I stress non SC as SC engines seem to have a bigger issue.

 

That is an engine with an issue imo... I never had an engine to which I had to add oil in between the regular planned maintenance, and some were driven hard, never ever had to add coolant.
That kind of liquid loss after 3.000 miles, that to me is an issue...

 

That oil catch can in that video is not particularly great. The inlet pipe should extend all the way inside the container to near the bottom of it. The baffling is rudimentary at best.

I was caught by surprise when I emptied my CC as there was more fluid than expected.

My meth/water system was dialed up quite high as I was using approximately 1/2 gallon of mix in 300 miles of highway driving. So have dialed it back a lot.

Have actually switched it off for the next 1,000 to see what I get in the CC.

I do not have to add oil between changes at around 4,000 miles and I do not lose coolant.