I have yet to call the dealer but assume that would be $400 plus. I have read some have gone with the anti gravity battery which is just overkill for me to shave a few pounds. Is there really any reason not to just get a battery at a local parts store for the F Type R? My BMW battery had to be done at the dealer since it is mated to the car. I read the auto stop/start disengages if not programmed at Jag? Is that true and the only thing that won't work if I get an aftermarket battery?

 

All you need is the right size and CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) battery. These cars need an AGM ( Absorbed Glass Mat) type of battery. Any right size and amps will be fine.

DC

 

When my old battery was playing up, went for this at the local auto store - $210 pre tax. However I didn't realize until after buying they couldn't do their free installation - so had to take it to the dealer regardless. Depends on if they can do the install!

DieHard Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCA

 

Is there anything to the installation on these? Seems like they simply drop in.

 

I think dealers will tell you they have to be programmed to the car but as I understand it the BMS will adapt to the new one over time anyway. I haven't changed the battery in my F-Type yet, but I did a battery change in my previous 2010 XKR and had no issues with it.

 

My OEM battery was going strong after 7 years, but I replaced it anyway last year with a $199 Duralast from Autozone. Easy to swap, other than their weight. Be sure to inspect your new battery; I discovered mine had a cracked case when I got home, had to go back for a 2nd one (more lifting).

Didn’t do any programming and it’s worked fine.

 

Does the engine size make a difference when purchasing either the Everlast or Diehard AGM batteries? The individual sites would not allow me to select V8 under the F-Type engine options so I'm guessing not.

 

I don't see any battery differences in this document due to engine size:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4rlqebo0m9..._X152.pdf?dl=0

 

Drop in. There is NO programming needed. In fact (and maybe I am just blind)...I do not see anything in the JLR software that suggests it. On my BMW's they have a programming "required", but I think it is BS. It supposedly adjusts as the battery ages?? Really...It either needs the juice or doesn't?? How would it use less when the battery ages...Anyway, on those (BMW's) I bought the coding software and in some cases "programmed" the new battery, and in other cases I did not...I saw no difference.

The main thing, is you should not a normal Lead Acid battery as they have so many electronics drawing it down all the time.

DC

 

Costco has the batter for $179 which seems like the best deal so I will pick it up there. I called the dealer and it was about $600. And this year I had bought a battery for my BMW and apparently did need to mate it with the dealer software. I called everywhere and they all said it cannot be done on a BMW and forced to go to a dealership. I don't know why but every place told me the same thing.

 

Shaving 40+ pounds is not a few but a rather substantial amount particularly when you consider its coming off the driver side. However, I fully realize the Antigravity battery is not for everyone given it’s high initial costs compared to an auto store battery. When you compare it to a stock dealer battery that differential closes quite a bit. With antigravity batteries you get a full 3 year direct replacement warranty and an additional 2 years pro-rated. You then get a remote control to jump your battery should it for some reason draw down which means no trying to open the boot or jumping the car. For me, I was delighted to shed the pounds and if you are lucky you can still make use of Antigravity’s Black Friday sale of 15% off.

 

The local Advance Auto near my office installed what Advance Auto carries that fits the specs for F-Type... a Die Hard Platinum AGM with a bit more CCA than the OEM battery. The local Autozone and Tire Kingdom franchises were concerned about needing to program the battery. I have no idea how truly safe this was, but at Advance Auto the old battery was removed with a code reader in place and the engine running. This registered a battery fault obviously, but my car took the new battery without any issues. Cost me about $240-$250? after paying for the battery, sales taxes, and a tip for the installer.

 

Really/Honestly...Putting a new battery in these cars (or most any) is not a big deal. As you all may be aware, when we have issues, or battery drain from a misbehaving OBDII devices....What do we do?? Battery reboot/reset, which is basically disconnecting and reconnecting the battery power...Not really any different than taking one out and putting one back in its place (unless you get the wrong battery ).

Rest at ease...and get your new batteries.

DC

 

Since I was replaced mine proactively before it failed, I could shop around a bit. Like some others have reported, some shops wouldn't do their normal free installation.
Like Whatsnext, I landed at Costco and got an Interstate battery. Cheapest option, but did require that I install it myself. Like any battery, it's no big deal, although a little tight in working space, at least on the 'vert. I returned the original battery to Costco to get a refund on the core charge. But, again, no big deal. I had to get rid of it somewhere.

And, the only "reprogramming" required is to reset the windows automatic full up/down function which you have to do any time power is interrupted:

Reset as follows:
1. Close the window fully.
2. Release the switch, then lift it to the close position and hold for 2 seconds.
3. Open the window fully.
4. Release the switch, then push it to the open position and hold for 2 seconds.
5. Lift and release the switch to operate the one-touch function.
6. Repeat the procedure on each window

 

Stop/start is not affected by a battery change. In 2015 and older models, there was a second battery that when it died, so would the stop/start. On 2016 and on models, there is no second battery. The stop/start can be easily defeated by pulling one plug, but changing the battery won't kill it.

 

My car's original battery was going bad as I was getting low battery warnings. I picked up a H8/Group 49 Antigravity battery from a supplier online (was surprised no tax). It was pricey at $855 for 60AH.

To answer your question. I don't track. I just cruise A to B with some spirited driving. I'm too amateur to notice any difference. You can save yourself several hundreds of dollars going with Costco and maybe get yourself one of those type S mini jump starter kit in case of an emergency.

I do however really like the Antigravity as the installation was a breeze. I can lift and maneuver the battery with one hand easily. I need two hands and some muscle to support removing the original battery. Its nice to know and have the remote in the event that the car needs a jump start. It also has as advertised, a battery management system in place. Peace of mind, but an expensive peace of mind. Maybe long term it will be cheaper going with Lithium. Which begs the question, how often do you replace a car's battery?

 

If you have read along thus far you can probably discern that I have an Antigravity battery. I called them and spoke to two different technicians, both very knowledgeable and friendly and while they both were positive that an 60AH battery was perfectly adequate for an F-Type I decided to go for the 80AH only because it was there, on sale, no sales tax, no core charge, delivered to your door. Once you get the stock boat anchor out the H8 is a perfect, solid fit. So I payed a bit more than what a dealer would have charged me for a stock battery installed. Now, for me the best part is that, unlike the auto store brands, these guys are on the other end of a phone call and I am not talking to someone in Botswana. It’s a piece of mind thing and just like gas, I only use Chevron or Shell and many would say 7/11 is the same and you are just overpaying for the same gas but the piece of mind to me is worth it so I do it because I am fortunate that I can.

 

From my own personal experience, the battery life depends on how often you use the vehicle. Assuming in one year, you accumulated 40k miles, expect your battery not to last more than 2 years. If your radio is on high volume all the time, A/C is always on, you are lucky if it gets to 2 years. I have a pick-up truck which I rarely use and the battery lasted for about 10+ years. It is always connected to a battery tender when not in use.

 

Well I plan on picking mine up at Costco when they get them back in stock tomorrow. Went to take the Jag to dinner last night and the car is dead which seems odd. I received one low battery notice on the dash and now the car has zero power so hopefully the battery will be back in stock as they plan tomorrow. When I called the dealer (my cousin in Chicago) he said they swap the OEM's with Interstate batteries once they die.

 

Those dealer prices are a total joke when it's so much cheaper and simple to just replace it on your own. I replaced the batteries myself in my previous 2011 and 2014 XFs without any issues.

Don't know about the F-Type but in the XF it was important to let the car shut down all systems properly before disconnecting the battery by leaving the car closed (except the trunk) and unlocked for some 20 minutes before starting to remove the old battery. Some people managed to fry some expensive electronic modules by not doing this.