Originally Posted by ancient

... makes me feel like Darth Vader when doing the grocery shopping.

Originally Posted by schuss

Do you have a DIY written on getting connected with the SDD software? I can't seem to make any progress on it, there must be some step that I'm missing.

Originally Posted by SinF

Welcome to F-type ownership, you are now a proud owner of a Jaaaaag minus Lucas and oil leaks. As F-type shares a lot of mechanics with earlier Jaguar XKR, even early F-types benefit from 'mid cycle' mechanical updates and are considered reliable. As no car is perfect, there are few common themes and re-occurring flaws that you will have to deal with.

Issue 1: Cooling system and plastic coolant piping - unfortunately a number of plastic coolant pipes in the engine bay were made from material that becomes brittle with age and splits at the seam. This was made worse by adding an insulated engine cover that traps heat in the engine bay. Some of these coolant pipes are in the engine valley, requiring removal of supercharger to replace. Parts were updated around 2017 to seam-less design to prevent splitting, but your F-type does not have them installed from the factory. These can fail two ways - sudden failure where you dump all coolant and overheat the engine or slow leak. Sudden coolant loss is more dangerous as in-dash engine temperature indicator displays a running average and not instant engine temperature measures, delaying when the driver notified about overheating. So by the time you see the dash warning about overheating the engine have been cooking, potentially without any coolant at all, for a few minutes. Treat anything related to cooling system as an emergency, do not wait to pull over, shut the engine off, and open the hood. If you get coolant warning, have the car towed unless you can confirm it still has coolant. While this might be an overkill, I also ask my garage to pressure test cooling system every year prior to storing it for the winter. Additionally I permanently removed engine cover and it had measurable effect on reducing engine bay temperature.

Issue 2: Engine oil and sludge. AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6 engines in F-type use direct injection (DI). DI means these engines are prone to developing sludge on intake valves if oil is neglected. These engines also use oil pressure to control variable timing. All of this means that things go bad very quickly when the oil gets dirty. Fortunately, frequent oil changes using spec oil shown to largely mitigate sludge. It is very crucial that you stay on top of oil changes and use spec synthetic oil with specified additives. Also keep in mind AJ133 V8 doesn't have low oil pressure sensor (yes, you read it right), this means you can run the car dry and it will not warn you. All of this means that you have to be religious about changing oil and monitoring engine oil level.

Issue 3: Injectors. AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6 engines in F-type use direct injection (DI). This system has two stage fuel pumps and high-pressure injectors. This setup means that running out of gas has a chance to damage pumps, so take care not to do that. Injector failures are unfortunately known to happen where the whole rail has to be replaced, but can be mitigated with regular use of PEA-containing injector cleaning. I recommend running PEA fuel additives like BG 44K annually or budget for injector replacement in a couple years.

Issue 4: Battery and charging. When you plug anything into OBD port, power management control module is known to get glitched and not completely power the car down. This in turn runs the main battery flat as the car never fully shuts down. To fix this, you need to disconnect the main battery to reset the power control module. Dead battery in a locked car is a huge inconvenience, as you need power to open the trunk to access the battery, so it can lock you out of the car and it is nuisance to get it resolved. My suggestions: a) know emergency unlock procedure (with mechanical key hidden in the fob) and boost points in your engine bay b) avoid using OBD readers or assume it will glitch and reset PCM after each use. You can visually tell that the car did not fully power down if emergency triangle stays illuminated 10 minutes after you locked the car - this means PCM is glitched. More so, having marginal battery on these cars is known to trigger all kind of fault codes, so if you suddenly see multiple dash warnings about unrelated things... don't panic, it just might be a marginal battery.

While this is not a fault or mechanical issue, make sure to stay on top of transmission, differential, supercharger oil, brake fluids and engine coolant changes. Low miles on your car does not mean that original fluids are fine - as they degrade both with use and time. Unless you have records from PO, assume that nothing other than oil changes was done (many people treat lease cars as a rental). This means you have to catch up on all other fluid and filter changes. Changing engine oil is crucially important, but there are other fluids and filters that also have to be regularly changed. Especially important is transmission fluid and filter - these cars come equipped with a superb automatic transmission that I expect to last forever, that is unless you never change transmission fluid. Based on the year of your car, you are overdue on coolant and brake fluid changes and due on transmission fluid change. And no, "just 11K miles" does not change the fact that these fluids were put into your car in 2015 at the factory in UK more than 5 years ago.

Also this has to be mentioned. If your car is still on Pzero tires - these are the worst "performance" tires in the industry. Upgrade to MP4S and it will transform how your car handles.

Originally Posted by bossman380

Hi SinF, thank you for the detailed message a few questions id like clarification on...

Originally Posted by Therock88

No DIY on SDD...Way too many variables, parameters, and devices possible. I am no expert but found that it is "relatively" intuitive if you launch it in stand-alone mode (not connected to the car) and just go through the options and features.

You also want to be certain you have good Drew Technologies IDS Mongoose drivers for the cable to work, or get the JLR DoiP VCI type of connector optionally. I also set up a dual boot laptop running one Windows 7 OS Session, as it appears to have
been written for Win 7 (no kidding).

The spoiler disable is listed under Service Functions - Add/Remove accessories.

Good luck,
DC

Originally Posted by schuss

Yeah, i read that somewhere, so set up a dedicated machine with Windows 7 for the purpose. The SDD software boots up on it well enough. I can't see how to get a standalone mode, though, it always wants me to log in and that requires an internet connection. I have created an account in Topix and paid for a 24-hour access period but I don't see anywhere in that software where you can DO anything, it's just documentation and wiring diagrams and recall notices.

Is there a manual for SDD anywhere that you know of?

Unrelated...
I ordered BG 44K this week, wasn't aware of that, glad I read this thread!