mornin all
new F type S owner here in GA.
i'll have a few questions but im sayin Hi first!
owned jags for 30 years, restored and maintained all of them myself.
i now own my first ever warranty....haha

 

should add.....
2015
black on black with black packages

 

Congrats,
I too am new to the F-Type. Picked up a White F-Type S about 2 months ago and have been scouring this forum every waking minute. Unfortunately I live in NY so I just stored mine for the winter and I already miss it. Good luck with the new purchase. Enjoy!

 

i just sold up in NY, tired of those winters and needing winter tires!.
Thanks to covid i made a killing on my upstate place and bought the F type!.
I can't imaging having to lock the cat up for winter, that had to be hard.

 

Welcome to F-type ownership, you are now a proud owner of a Jaaaaag minus Lucas and oil leaks. As F-type shares a lot of mechanics with earlier Jaguar XKR, even early F-types benefit from 'mid cycle' mechanical updates and are considered reliable. As no car is perfect, there are few common themes and re-occurring flaws that you will have to deal with.

Issue 1: Cooling system and plastic coolant piping - unfortunately a number of plastic coolant pipes in the engine bay were made from material that becomes brittle with age and splits at the seam. This was made worse by adding an insulated engine cover that traps heat in the engine bay. Some of these coolant pipes are in the engine valley, requiring removal of supercharger to replace. Parts were updated around 2017 to seam-less design to prevent splitting, but your F-type does not have them installed from the factory. These can fail two ways - sudden failure where you dump all coolant and overheat the engine or slow leak. Sudden coolant loss is more dangerous as in-dash engine temperature indicator displays a running average and not instant engine temperature measures, delaying when the driver notified about overheating. So by the time you see the dash warning about overheating the engine have been cooking, potentially without any coolant at all, for a few minutes. Treat anything related to cooling system as an emergency, do not wait to pull over, shut the engine off, and open the hood. If you get coolant warning, have the car towed unless you can confirm it still has coolant. While this might be an overkill, I also ask my garage to pressure test cooling system every year prior to storing it for the winter. Additionally I permanently removed engine cover and it had measurable effect on reducing engine bay temperature.

Issue 2: Engine oil and sludge. AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6 engines in F-type use direct injection (DI). DI means these engines are prone to developing sludge on intake valves if oil is neglected. These engines also use oil pressure to control variable timing. All of this means that things go bad very quickly when the oil gets dirty. Fortunately, frequent oil changes using spec oil shown to largely mitigate sludge. It is very crucial that you stay on top of oil changes and use spec synthetic oil with specified additives. Also keep in mind AJ133 V8 doesn't have low oil pressure sensor (yes, you read it right), this means you can run the car dry and it will not warn you. All of this means that you have to be religious about changing oil and monitoring engine oil level.

Issue 3: Injectors. AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6 engines in F-type use direct injection (DI). This system has two stage fuel pumps and high-pressure injectors. This setup means that running out of gas has a chance to damage pumps, so take care not to do that. Injector failures are unfortunately known to happen where the whole rail has to be replaced, but can be mitigated with regular use of PEA-containing injector cleaning. I recommend running PEA fuel additives like BG 44K annually or budget for injector replacement in a couple years.

Issue 4: Battery and charging. When you plug anything into OBD port, power management control module is known to get glitched and not completely power the car down. This in turn runs the main battery flat as the car never fully shuts down. To fix this, you need to disconnect the main battery to reset the power control module. Dead battery in a locked car is a huge inconvenience, as you need power to open the trunk to access the battery, so it can lock you out of the car and it is nuisance to get it resolved. My suggestions: a) know emergency unlock procedure (with mechanical key hidden in the fob) and boost points in your engine bay b) avoid using OBD readers or assume it will glitch and reset PCM after each use. You can visually tell that the car did not fully power down if emergency triangle stays illuminated 10 minutes after you locked the car - this means PCM is glitched. More so, having marginal battery on these cars is known to trigger all kind of fault codes, so if you suddenly see multiple dash warnings about unrelated things... don't panic, it just might be a marginal battery.

While this is not a fault or mechanical issue, make sure to stay on top of transmission, differential, supercharger oil, brake fluids and engine coolant changes. Low miles on your car does not mean that original fluids are fine - as they degrade both with use and time. Unless you have records from PO, assume that nothing other than oil changes was done (many people treat lease cars as a rental). This means you have to catch up on all other fluid and filter changes. Changing engine oil is crucially important, but there are other fluids and filters that also have to be regularly changed. Especially important is transmission fluid and filter - these cars come equipped with a superb automatic transmission that I expect to last forever, that is unless you never change transmission fluid. Based on the year of your car, you are overdue on coolant and brake fluid changes and due on transmission fluid change. And no, "just 11K miles" does not change the fact that these fluids were put into your car in 2015 at the factory in UK more than 5 years ago.

Also this has to be mentioned. If your car is still on Pzero tires - these are the worst "performance" tires in the industry. Upgrade to MP4S and it will transform how your car handles.

 

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your new ride. Hope you enjoy it. You know you have to post pictures right?

DC

 

Welcome to the forum, best place for information! I live in NY and do not put my jag away during the winter months. I usually drive my jag at least once a month or more as long as there is no salt on the roads. First it keeps all the fluids moving and I get a chance to enjoy some alone time. I’ve been doing this for over 20 years first with a 63 e type coupe and now with my F type. Good luck with your f type and it’s a great car to enjoy during COVID lockdowns and social distancing.
Frank

 

AMEN on that! The worst tire I have ever had on a car...ever. I thought people were exaggerating, and then I drove on them, and they were being kind

DC

 

This can not be overstated enough, especially on RWD Jags.

 

Welcome to you both and I know you will enjoy each and every ride! After 5-1/2 years of ownership I still love it dearly.

 

thank you for the kind welcomes and informative posts.
i have always done my own mods and maintenance and will likely continue this in the F.
the coolant lines do not surprise me.lol
do many forum users remove the engine cover?.
The car is fast enough for me as stock so i doubt i will change anything there but i did add a switch to deactivate the spoiler when driving under 135mph 😀
is there a place to look for write ups or videos on the various fluid and filter changes?. I did already watch a video on engine oil change and that looked simple enough, is there an approved oil available on the highstreet for engine and transmission?

 

Welcome to the club. Yes most people remove the engine cover to help keep the heat down. TheRock88 has posted a lot of DIY, also there are some at the top of the home page. There is a 24,000 pdf service manual on dropbox. I think OzXFR posted it. I use Liqui-Moly oil spec'ed for our F-type.

 

Comments in RED above...

Coming from Porsches and BMWs primarily...These cars are fun, fast, sound awesome, and are BEA-utiful. Enjoy it. But nothing is EVER "Fast enough"

DC

 

does coding out the spoiler also disable the 135 mph speed limit and allow for switching off the DSC?

i doubt i'll ever even do 100 but im curious and its good info to add to the thread 👍

 

If you code it out - I.E. I went into SDD Software, and essentially told the ECU that Deployable Wing = No (I do not have one)...It basically quits checking to see if it goes up or down, regardless of what your vehicle is doing.

No reason to go into any great detail here, because I already have an entire thread and DIY Info HERE

Take care,
DC

 

Hold traction control button 10 seconds to completely disable it, no mods are needed.

Before you do that, give TracDSC a chance. I find it very non-intrusive, I actually track my car with it on.

That is, unless you want to do some hooning. Then more power to you.

 

I rarely drive without being in TracDSC. I'd rather get some slide than have the system cut throttle. If I give it the boot, I expect some wheelspin, and an unexpected loss of power instead it NOT what I expect.

 

Do you have a DIY written on getting connected with the SDD software? I can't seem to make any progress on it, there must be some step that I'm missing.

 

Hi SinF, thank you for the detailed message a few questions id like clarification on
New owner as of last Tuesday..

Jaguar F-Type S:

-For Transmission Oil its 10 quarts?
-Oil 7.6 quarts
-Differential 1 Quart?
-Brake fluid
-And coolant changes
-What brand or brands do you recommend for each one.

Also how often with moderate driving do you recommend doing each one of these above?

I have already done the BG 44K

Also looking into do some mods nothing crazy but open to play anything common thats recommended and worth it?

 

Welcome, lovely car. 2015 Base owner here, also have it all blacked out, makes me feel like Darth Vader when doing the grocery shopping.