Hi guys! First post, so here goes. I am the proud new owner of a '14 F-type S... 35k miles and Firesand- Velocity Tune. Gorgeous car that I had shipped to me and am in the getting to know it phase. On way down, the seller told the transport driver to disconnect the battery while it was in transport. Well, the car was loaded and unloaded a few times and it arrived to me with a dead hooked up battery. Not knowing the car, I stood by while the driver hooked up his power pack to the front terminals and tried to jump the car. I have since read here that this is a no-no and the front terminals are only supposed to be used to gain access to the rear trunk for battery access. After a few tries and a noticeable arc, he tried the rear trunk method and the car started. It instantly showed an airbag light that the seller said was not present before. I let the car run in hopes of letting it charge the battery for awhile, and when I cycled the power- it started again, no problem (air bag light still on).

The next day... road trip day to get the car home... 700 miles. Early morning departure, and no problems for the first 6 hours. The first warning was a Charging System Failure red display light came up, and the "press ok to acknowledge". The next was a little blip or two on the main console, radar detector blipped, stereo blipped, and what seemed like a ground fault. I pulled off to the shoulder, and cycled the power (car started no problem) and the warning lights went away. Weird! I progressed on for another 30 minutes or so stressing out, and got another CSF light and a few more power blips. So, it's into the Autozone for a battery test. Battery checked out, and I went immediately to the auto shop around the corner for an alternator test. The alternator tested weak, so we threw a new one in and off I went, 2 hours behind schedule now. The next round was some 4+ hours later... another CSF light and since my next stop was some 30 miles away, I decided to press on. I got to the destination, and was out of the car for 5 minutes or so... got back in, and she fired up again. No lights other than the airbag. 1 hour and 39 minutes to the house, and I am on a prayer! The last half hour of the trip, I got the CSF light accompanied with a CEL. Now I stress for the last half hour and finally get the car home and in the garage at 2130h at night.

The next day, it's OBDII time to pull codes:
P0055- Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 3 (Permanent)
P0688- Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module Power Relay Sense Circuit (open code)
P0563- System Voltage High (Pending code)
U0447- Invalid Data Received From Gateway A (Pending code)
U0405- Invalid Data Received From Cruise Control Module

Does anyone have any ideas on where to go next? There's no warranty on the car, so this is on me. My last project was a WRX STi that we put a 356 shell on it, and we had to dig electrical gremlins out for months, so I feel confident about doing the work.

I read on other threads about the following:
-Unplugging 3 terminals on the ECM in the passenger's footwell and reset
-Replace battery
-The car has a Velocity Tune, will any of this affect the tune state?

The builder recommends a flash to original map, and then to reinstall the Velocity tune. Replacement of the battery was recommended too.

At this point looking for a consensus to where to go and what to poke around with. Am I in a bad place due to this transport driver's mistake?

Help and thanks for any input to steer me in the right direction.

 

First thing I would do is check that the battery terminals are clean and tight as well as all the other connections nearby - especially the battery to ground connection (in case they disconnected the battery with the negative wire connection to ground). They might have not connected things securely or disturbed some wiring when connecting and reconnecting the battery.

The P0055 is probably a dead O2 sensor which is common. I can't remember which side bank 1 is but sensor 3 is the one of the two located closest to the tailpipe.

The remainder might simply be due to the intermittent power issue you are experiencing.

PS: Bank 1 is passenger side. Let us know what the problem was once you check things out. Unhinged is right I hope the previous owner gave you the VAP flasher as you will need one to reflash the original tune .

 

Bad battery could result in all kinds of false codes. Also, careless boosting can result in all kinds of electrical problems. Also, power management module on these cars tends to hang and requires disconnect-battery-to-reboot procedure. This hang is especially frequent after the use OBD port. When it hangs, the car does not properly shuts down and the battery is drained within a day or so.

Chances are, codes are false, but you can't be completely sure.

First, you need to sort out the battery issue. Check the date on the battery - if it is original, get a new one. Reset the codes, reset power control module. See what comes back.

 

The VAP tune affects none of these issues and vise versa. However, if you some day need to load the will need the get the Handheld programming tool from the previous owner. (Chris at VAP may also have a copy of your OEM tune.

 

Not entirely true. We don't know what else on this car. Mods, like high flow cats, could be responsible for at least some of these codes. Also, it is possible that adding or removing pulley without matching tune could result in a code.

It would be interesting to see if VAP supports this car now that it is on a second owner.

 

Thanks for the initial ideas. After replacing the battery, my plan is to reboot the PCM if someone can walk me through that, and do a revert back to factory tune and refresh the VAP tune. VAP flasher inbound with the stock tune and the performance tune loaded.

Builder suggested that it's throwing over voltage because when running, the car is depending on the alternator for voltage, and not the battery (may have bad cell) and thats why you're getting an over voltage code.
Any validity to that?
So, it's a replace of the battery which is weird as the battery was new September of 2019 (9 months old).

@RGPV6S- "The P0055 is probably a dead O2 sensor which is common. I can't remember which side bank 1 is but sensor 3 is the one of the two located closest to the tailpipe."
-Is that something I can order and replace myself? I hate to put the car in the shop for simple things I can remedy myself.

@SinF- "Reset the codes, reset power control module. See what comes back"
-To reset the PCM, is it as simple as unplugging the 3 leads and plugging them back in? Passenger side footwell? I think I read this somewhere on the forum.

Keep em coming, and I am all ears. It's raining here, and the handheld programmer doesn't show here until Wednesday- so I have time to come up with a plan of attack.

The mods match the tune so I don't think a mismatch on the parts/tune are the issue.
-Jaguar F-Type Decat Downpipe
-Jaguar/Landrover 5.0SC 1.5lb Supercharger 1 Pulley
-Jaguar F-Type V8S 5.0 Supercharged ECU 1 Tune

 

If it is indeed the O2 sensor and not a false code that particular sensor is very easy to replace. The dealer sells the part for ~$150 to $250. Car parts store for about one third to one half that. It takes longer to jack the car up and set jack stands that it does to replace the part. The only special tool required is an O2 sensor socket.

Here is a thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...cation-200433/

 

My procedure is to disconnect both terminals from the battery and then wait 5 minutes before reconnecting. My car has a single battery system, I think earlier years had a secondary battery that you might also need to disconnect for PCM reset.

 

If the downpipes do not have a catalytic matrix in them, what prevents O2 codes? The VAP tune?

 

Good catch.

 

Sort out one problem at a time, the most critical first. Otherwise, you will be chasing your tail. The over-voltage would be the primary concern for me. Confirm that issue with a multi-meter.

The catless downpipe is guaranteed to throw a code on the OEM tune. If VAP provided the down pipe, they would have factored that into the tune they provided for the car to prevent generating the code.

 

So, with a new battery in, I will work through the remainder of the issues today. Unfortunately, we have a rainy day scheduled- so no test driving in the event it leaves me stranded.

I was going to put a "battery tender" on to keep the charge right while I am away for extended trips, and read a link on the second battery in the '14 models. Sure as sh*t, I have two! I also read about hooking a tender up to the bus bar (sp?) so both batteries get charged... any known opposition to this, as I read that the smaller battery wouldn't charge if you just hook a tender up to the large battery.

Learning more and more each day, the more I read. Thanks so far for the help, and hopefully I can get this beast sorted and back on the road offending the neighbors.

 

Since the positive big battery terminal is connected to the busbar I fail to see how it wouldn't also charge the smaller one. How would the smaller one ever get charged? But yeah, I'd connect the charger to the busbar as it keeps the terminals away from the battery (nice and convenient when replacing batteries).

 

The old, two-battery system was more problematic. I know of other cars (notably Mercedes SL) that used two-battery systems where trickle charger could cause damage if the secondary battery is completely dead.

I would just ensure that your car shuts down properly (look for emergency triangle illumination, if it lit up few minutes after you locked, PCM is not turning everything off appropriately and has to be reset) and disconnect the battery when away for extended time.

 

Success... so far! I did the battery exchange, and attached the trickle charger until I got a solid green light (full charge). I have 2 x test trips with her and so far so good. There's an airbag light that stays on, and my guess is that's a dealer remedied item, and a tire pressure light that's associated with the previous owner not using compatible sensors.

So, I think I am heading towards the right direction of driving and enjoying.... and fixing those tiny issues that bug me.

Next up: Little white connectors that keep the door seal attached to the sill of the car. I think since it gets a foot or leg drawn over it time after time, the little connectors have come out and are missing. Need to track down those buggers. I am sure they are probably $10 a piece!

Thanks for the help, and I will continue to comb through the forums and learn more about this new beast!

 

I believe that someone has posted a source for those clips (or at least discussed the issue).