Ulrich, agreed. More accurately, I should have stated that itis actually the hydraulic cylinder itself that could have plastic particles lodging themselves between the cylindrical piston and the cylinder wall. I'll keep everyone posted.

Lance

 

If it's really a concern you could rig something with a shop-vac to minimize the risk of debris getting below the bleed valve.

That does bring up a question I had initially though: That bleed nipple isn't at the end of the line, unless the part that goes into the bell housing to the slave cylinder goes down from the master cylinder side and returns to the bleeder. Is the slave cylinder at a hydraulic dead-end?

 

That's a great idea. I'll try to rig something up. A vacuum pump may even be more effective.

The slave is at a dead end. No return back up the 6" tube. However, given the very low viscosity of the specified class 6 fluid, the air bubbles in that tube should easily rise back up that tube. Standard DOT 4 fluid cannot be used. Of course, Jag charges $60 for 1000ml, but it can be ordered under the manufacturer's brand (ATE) for $17

 

My BMW used brake fluid for the hydraulic clutch and I would flush it with a pressure brake bleeder. If Jag is the same, you might put a slight positive pressure on the fluid while drilling so any debris would spill out into a catch basin.

 

Whatever is handy. If you can get the right drill speed to avoid smaller particles, it should be easier to contain debris.

I haven't used any of the class 6 fluid yet. I've been through many gallons of DOT 4 though. I used Castrol GT LMA "back in the day" (when I had a shop) and have been using Ate Super Blue/Gold of late. I hear that's been discontinued though due to the dye.

 

Also a great idea. I'll see which option is best executed. I'm looking for a total process that will be most easily executed by the greatest number of people. I have a hand pressure/vacuum pump we could pass around with the right angle drill.

 

The right stuff to use is ATE DOT 4 SL.6

 

I've seen it, but haven't needed to use any yet.

 

FWIW, the ATE Superblue has only been deemed illegal in the US because it does not conform to US DOT standards. Brake fluid must be Clear or Amber...

I'm not so sure it is discontinued, more likely only unavailable in the US.

 

With all the right tools in place, the project took a lot of patience and less than an hour. As soon as I test drive the car, I will report back and, if it was successful, I will describe the full process with crappy fotos.

Next project: clear out the glaciers obstructing garage door and driveway.

I did discover something interesting that I have never encountered before which affects the feel of the clutch pedal: Without the hydraulic pressure, the pedal toggles mechanically to the full up or full down position. This gives it whatever weak friction point feel it has. The CDV probably eliminated all sense of friction point.


Most pedals are spring loaded to the full up position.

 

Indeed, although the return spring for my C30 is unusual. It cams over so that when the pedal is more than halfway up it returns, and when the pedal is more than halfway down, it pushes down to relive some of the effort of holding the pedal depressed. It makes the clutch too light and even more vague than the one on the F-Type.

 

In fact, what you describe is exactly how the F-Type clutch pedal works. That combined with the Volvo "Torque Control Valve" that probably came straight off your C30 is the entirety of the pedal feel issue. However, see the next post.

 

I finished the project and managed to get the car out for a road test. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! The pedal now feels connected to the clutch (just like it should), and shifts can be completed far more quickly. There still isn't enough clamping force on the clutch, but that issue is far more manageable now that the clutch reacts immediately to driver input. Anyone uncomfortable with the clutch delay will be extremely pleased with this mod. If anyone is interested in doing this, I'll write up the procedures within the next couple of days.

 

Good work!

 

Good news. Glad to hear you're (more) satisfied with the clutch than before. I'll be interested to see the write-up.

 

Here it is. To make it easier for someone to make a copy I am attaching the procedure as an Adobe file.

If anyone is keen on doing this, I would be happy to send out the drill extension, purge fitting and sample CDV (to see what you're dealing with up close) on loan.
CDV delete.pdf

 

This is a cooler fix than Appollo XIII. Great work.

 

OK, I'll do this when I get my new V6 S in May (after driving it a bit so I can tell the difference).


I have an idea for your next project. How about figuring out a way to make more space to the left of the clutch? Right now I can't slide my foot off the clutch to the left (when it's up, not at the bottom). I have to pick it up and tuck it under. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated.

 

Awesome job!

Curious to know if total elimination of this device is the desired result, or if there is any benefit to controlling the effect to avoid totally slamming the driveline?

Here is a version that is available in different orifice sizes to control fluid flow:

http://tiltonracing.com/product/flow-control-valve/

 

I had the same question, and does that now void the clutch warranty because of extra wear and tear on the clutch?