When completing 'long' (100+ mile) journeys, then resuming following a short stop, the CEL light comes on within a couple of miles (codes P0170 and P0173). Back in November the dealer changed-out spark plugs, carried out a 'fuel system service' and reset CEL, following which I ran two doses of Techron fuel injector cleaner though the system. After recently doing another long journey the CEL came back on. This time the dealer stated the O2 censors were "washed-out" (too much raw fuel) and would need replacing, along with both catalytic convertors - luckily both of these are covered under Jaguar warranty and a federal mandatory emissions warranty. The O2 censors in the CC were seized so bad they couldn't be removed. The fuel cap, MAF sensors, etc, all checked-out OK.
My question is is this 'normal' for a 7 year old car that's only done 23,000 miles? If it is then next time I'm looking at around $7,000 to replace the CC's again, which is clearly a problem!

Thanks in advance.

2019 SVR.

 

Do you do a lot of "pops and bangs" driving? That's known to be very hard on emissions gear.

 

Sometimes, yeah, but most of the time it's driven 'normally'. The dealer did state that the pops and bangs do beat the hell out of the CC's.

 

Well I can't see O2 sensors getting "washed" out by fuel?

I had an injector failure in my 5.0L XJR that flooded the engine with so much fuel I could not even start the car. After many hours of work and swapping injectors around I got it to start. Huge white clouds came out of the exhaust pipes. Took about 15 minutes of revving the engine to clear it all out. After all that the car ran fine. BUT now it was throwing Catalytic converter efficiency codes. Yep all that excessive fuel had ruined the drivers side cat!

I replaced the drivers side cat with a used one from a V-6 car. Turns out Jaguar again used a lot of the same parts between the V-6 and the V-8's. The exhaust system is one of them. After all that abuse I had zero O2 problems. They still worked just fine whether they were throwing cat codes or not! I know they were working OK because I swapped them side to side as I really did NOT want to replace that catalytic converter! Was hoping for a cheap fix with an O2 swap. But unfortunately the cat efficiency code stayed on the drivers side even after the O2 swap. Catalytic converters are $2400 each from JLR. I got a 65K mile used one for $500. Still a very expensive repair!

The O2 sensors are not too expensive and it might be a good idea to change them just because. Surprised they could not get the O2 sensors out? I have several special sockets and have never had one I could not remove. Now if talking about exhaust studs. Then yes I have fought those rusted things way more than I wanted to! Even though the O2 sensors are not suppose to need any anti-seize. I still (Old school I guess!) put a small dab on the threads. Old habits die hard.
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Yeah, I think in the case of the SVR it’s a pay to play scenario there unfortunately. Any car that is popping and bang at the levels those cars are, well, you are going to have these repeated issues. I think so anyway, and it’s clearly not a unique problem to the F-type. Those SVR just happen to be pretty extreme in this regard.

I absolutely love the vibe and extra look on the SVR (incredible), but this very issue is what makes me not as interested in them as I otherwise would be. Even driving sensibly with that car, you’re still gonna be popping and banging a lot in relative terms. It becomes a practical issue, as you’re starting to find out here I think.

I guess you could tune it out or whatever, but I’m personally not into doing that. I prefer to buy a level of stock power that I know I’ll be satisfied with so I can avoid tunes etc, and leave it there. But that’s just me, and I know all kinds of folks on the forum are happy to tune to their hearts content.

One of the things that attracted to the new R is the toned down burble tune, pops/bangs etc…What’s there is infrequent and more random, and I quite that. The overall exhaust tone, however, is still very good and there are several simple options that can be employed to improve on the stock exhaust note even further.

Good luck. Regardless, you have a beautiful car there.

Cheers

 

Thanks for the reply. They're changing out all 6 of the O2 sensors (two of these will come with the new catalytic convertors) at no cost. Here's photo's the dealer sent me of the O2 sensor.

 

I had one O2 sensor replaced on my SVR a couple of years ago (covered by that extended warranty). They said it was a nightmare to get the old one out! I also did one on my Land Rover myself (it's got enough ground clearance that you can just reach under) and it came out pretty easily. So think it just depends on whether heat cycles and corrosion have welded them together...

 

I recently picked up a 2016R and had the same P0170 code after at least 45 mins-1 hour of highway driving and stopping. I did the following 3 things and issue is now resolved:

1. Replaced evap purge valve. Autozone had a part for $80 and it took 10 minutes to do, with no tools needed.
2. Noticed a lose connection between PCV valve to intake. Added a clamp to the rubber hose to secure that connection.
3. Then car stopped throwing P0170 and threw a P2274. So I replaced bank 1 sensor 3. Autozone had a Bosch sensor for $95. Took 10 minutes to do, very easily accessible.

Now car runs fine and issue resolved.

 

Hi! I’m new to posting on the forum so I apologize if I messed this up. But is there any way I can contact you for help with this issue? I just bought a 2017 f type r today and that same code came up. Just looking for some help! Thanks.

-Matt

 

After about 1500 trouble-free miles, my P0170 came back yesterday. Again, during a long highway drive, immediately after a quick stop to refuel. I pulled live data for STFT, LTFT, O2 Sensor Voltage etc. One of the MAFs showed 0.1lb/min which seemed low.

My current thinking is that there is sensor drift in one of the MAFs. Previous owner has installed K&N pod filters and Mina gallery intake so it is likely they over oiled and goofed up my MAF(s). I have ordered two OEM MAFs (FCPEuro had very reasonable prices) and going to drop the pod filters, clean them (not going to re-oil) and replace MAFs. If this doesn't solve it, then charcoal cannister is next.

Will keep this thread updated.

 

The bigger expense is the cats, and they are a wear item no matter which car you have. The early cars with the overrun will definitely wear the stock cats quicker - one potential solution if you want the glorious "old school" noise is to upgrade to high quality metallic high flow cats. A bit more power, a good bit more noise, you keep the pops and bangs, and they hold up a bit better to the excess fuel. Cheaper than replacement with stock ceramic cats too - some folks may be limited by local emissions restrictions though, so there is that. I have the VAP cats and downpipes, and knock on wood so far they are holding up great. And the thing sounds demonic