I think you are right. I was told that the forza AP8.9 amp should do the same thing....but it doesn't. I will order some of the LGD 60s.
Thanks.

 

They come in 2 packs and you will need 3. I have an extra you can have for 20.00 if you want it, that way you only need 1 pack of 2 and you will not have an extra.

 

Sounds good to me.
Where did you buy yours from....I'm currently in the UK and as far as I can tell, companies in the UK only have the blue version which is no good for me, like you mentioned, i need the grey 60 ohm version.
The specialist that is helping me told me he was waiting on a call to see if his supplier had the grey version, but he is now closed so I won't know until tomorrow which is a pain as i am in a hurry to get this sorted out as i was meant to be back home in Spain over a week ago and I'm still in the UK sorting this all out.
Thanks again for the info as you have pretty much saved this project when everyone i spoke to simply couldn't figure out why the OEM was not sending signals as it should.

 

Might be better to just pick them up over there then, due to shipping. The LGDs just stabilize the signal when there isn't a speaker attached to the channel prior to your amplifier. Unless something else changed it sounds like it's all related to setting up the input outputs of you Audison DSP. You want to feed each of the Left and Right door speaker channels into your amplifiers high level inputs, high, mid, and low. I would not bother with the signal going to the rear "sub". You will need to leave the mids behind the headrests connected if you want to retain the reverse warning tones.

 

No company has the grey ac-lgd 60s in the UK and shipping from the USA will in reality to be way over a week and quite expensive once you add the shipping and duty. Time is of the essence for me so I might be forced to purchase 3x audio control LC2i pro which have a an adjustable load settings including 60 ohm which is what i need. It is a bit extreme to have to get three of these units costing £170 each so I'm open to any other ideas as to how I can get 60 ohm load generators. Even had a look on youtube to see if I could make some but they're not as straight forward as i imagined, they require a zobel network.

 

Check eBay UK. They might expedite.

 

NVX ihas an LGD, looks like a repackaged audiocontrol LGD. Maybe those are available. JL also sells a similar solution with their FIX products. Just some other possibilities, I am sure there are even more out there that can do the same thing.

 

Audison site said the forza 8.9 has USS built in which seem to be their LGD type solution. I would reach out to audison tech.

 

I have spoken to the UK audison supplier and they can't figure it out. I've sent an email to Audison Europe twice, they've not replied. The UK rep is going to call Audison.
You are correct, my amp should have USS which should do what I need but it's not so i'm presuming it's sending out the wrong impedance load. There are a few other devices that do the same thing but they all seem to kick out different impedance loads which aren't adjustable.
Does anyone know what impedance load the amp needs to see in order to play music and not go into protection mode and shut down the channels?

The lead time on the AC-LGD60s is 2-4 weeks which is no good for me.

 

Honestly unless there is something drastically different with your factory amplifier, it should be working without the LGD, just not great. I was able to get things operating with my Audiocontrol D6.1200 without the LGD's. I just needed them to clean things up and tackle some abnormalities in the signals being caused by the factory amp. Can you draw out an attach a detailed schematic of how you have wired you system?

 

Just in case my diagram sucks. I've tapped into to the wiring just after the output plug from the factory amp. I've taken the signal from just the doors for tweeters, mids, and woofers. I disconnected the plug that goes to the woofer and mid behind the seats. I've taken the signal from the output oem amp plug which i spliced into and sent that signal to the AP f8.9 ....the 9th channel i have sent via rca to the AP1D which is powering two hertz ml1800 7" woofers behind the seats, i've left the mids above the rear woofers disconnected, and from the AP F8.9 sent the signal back to the factory wiring to the door speakers. = no audio.

I have spoken to a few people/ so called experts and tried the following:
Lowered the audio when setting up the AP F8.9 amp so that the jag system doesn't do the bass roll off......that made no difference which volume level i try and configure the AP F8.9 at.
Being that the AP f8.9 only has 6 channel input and the jag has i guess 13, i tried to attach speakers where i removed the rear woofer and mid so that each channel on the jag amp is seeing an impedance load.....that also made no difference.

I can't express sufficient gratitude for you guys on here, you have been exponentially more helpful than every so called expert i have spoken to.

 

diagram a little bit off....it only shows one set of tweeters, mids and woofer going to the amp......i drew 6 wires going to the APF8.9.......there are 12 input wires going to the AP F8.9 from the OEM amp.

 

No audio advice, but that is a terrific color combination, haven't seen one like it.

 

Ok, from what I see there is no reason to believe your wiring is incorrect as long as you accurately selected the right speaker output wires for each speaker from the factory amp. Seems to me that this might be a Audison amp issue, either in configuration of the input output path thru the DSP or something bigger like a bad amp. Here is the number for Chris McNulty, Audison US, maybe he can shed some light. 1-949-620-7055

 

Thanks for all your help and advice, genuinely is appreciated. I'm driving the car on a round trip of 8 hours tomorrow to see yet another specialist who will run a diagnostic and also bench test the AP F8.9 amp to check the amp does actually play music. I'll post on here what the conclusion is and hopefully how they have solved the issue and got my system up and running.

 

Hi,

I have nearly exactly the same set up as you, and have not had any issues, however this may be due to a different head unit. I have taken the door feeds out of the AMP and feed into the audison exactly like you, and feed those into the subwoofer via a ADP1. The other difference is that I had the standard 8.9 rather than the forza. One thing you can try is using an optical feed to test the amp.
I did write a lot of it up after my first attempt, but then I went back and added the ADP1, the ASP module and a couple of line units to mix the signal as the standard unit only accepts two speaker inputs not three. You should find a lot of it on you tube.

Paul

 

I don’t know if this is related, as my system is different to,yours, but I’m having an issue that’s similar to yours. Mine is a 2015 V6 with the base system. I think that’s 160 -watts or so output. As standard it had the tweeter, mid and woofer in each door and just the 2 mids behind the seat. This is standard I believe for you base model stereo. I changed all the door speakers without issue, everything worked well. I noticed that the 2 mids behind the seat sounded poor, so I decided to remove them. At the same time, I also then mounted a sub in an enclosure, with an amp (sits behind the seat). I wired the sub using the inputs to the two doo woofers. Turned the head unit on and no sound at all. The head unit appeared to be working perfectly, but zero sound. I didn’t have time to check anything so left it overnight. Came to it the next day and it worked fine! The next time nothing again, the next time fine! The stereo seems to work around 60% of the time with no issues. The other 40% no sound at all. It’s obviously wired OK, but something is stopping the sound every now and then. Is this similar to your problem? Do I need the LGD’s as mentioned above? If so, where do they go in the system? I thought about putting the two rear mids back in, but snipping the wire o the actual cone of the driver. I would think that this will stop the sound coming out, but keep the same load…….

 

why do you want the two rear mids removed ???
they provide valuable sound fill so just leave them in place.

 

Awesome Paul .

 

i took them out because they sound absolutely shocking. The mid range output from them sounds like mud. Once removed, the mid range was miles better (when it worked).