Thanks Paul, I actually watched your youtube videos many times so huge thanks.

(Orchardbike - Yes it sounds like you need some load resistors, my forza amp already has load resistors in. You wire them inline on the input signal just before your amp/active woofer)

So after 5 hours of work, the people doing the diagnostic found some bent pins on the OEM out put plugs. I guess in the course of trying so many things, trying to put the plugs back in with the OEM in situ, which can be fiddly, my engineer friend who was helping me had bent some of the pins through being too aggressive putting the plugs in.

Once my amp was seeing a signal, I took it to a specialist to set up all the levels and frequencies etc......sounds epic.

Does it sound £4000 epic including all the hassle I've had.......nope!....having said that I love driving and I love music so it's still a worth while upgrade in my books.

Good look to everyone, I hope luck goes your way and you thrive.

 

The Achilles hear for the Meridian system is the fact that you have to overcome the processing done by the factory amplifier. Any delays, eq, and all pass filters applied by the factory AAM are going to screw things up out the gate. The newer Meridian system uses a digital coax system which there currently is no oem audio interface to allow total delete of the AAM and use the pure unalter flat signal. There are interfaces available for the pre digital coax systems which used MOST fiber. Who knows if NAVTV will ever come out with an oem interface, I have asked them many times. Until then you just have to do the best you can using eq to flat out the incoming signal. Audio Control DSP software has an auto eq function that does a decent job at this.

 

My learning from my own experience is that you can massively transform the audio quality, by upgrading the components, but you are significantly hampered by the original head unit. However sit on the motorway at 70mph and that is all undone, too much road noise in the cabin drowns it all out (thats after fitting £100's of sound dampening material :-) ). Also for some bizarre reason the Aux input seems bizarrely poor !

 

Hey Paul, did you have much success tuning the Audison amp to get it to sound how you want?
Mine sounds good but feels like it needs more tinkering, it sounds very bright at the moment rather than warm and rich.
Can you tell me what settings you went with in the audison pc software as well as the bass, treble, subwoofer settings you went with on the jaguar system side.

chers mate.

 

I can try and take some screen shots next time I plug the PC in. All I can say is that I gave up with the tuning process and went my own way. I found the best way was to listen to a range of different sources and try and get a balance across them. Also if your head unit adjusts the volume when you drive you may want to turn that setting off because it also messes with the EQ curve !

 

How do you turn that setting off in the f-type where it adjusts the volume when driving?

 

Also did you run a remote on from an ignition live to the amp? At present mine turn on when the factory amp sends a signal.....I think I'd rather use a ignition live remote on.
If you did, can you remember which wire was the ignition live in the boot?

cheers mate.

 

I'm fascinated by this thread. Would it be possible to post a concise list of parts and changes? I need to do something with mine.

 

The sound saga continues.
On my drive to Spain from the UK I noticed a few issues with the sound. It seems like the Jaguar sound system likes to play silly buggers and alter the levels all the time, from adjusting the volume with speed, changing the levels when the roof goes down, and it also seems like it alters the levels from song to song.....one song sounds great, next song has too much bass and can hardly hear the vocals, and then the next song has no bass and all vocals. I spoke to the guy who set up the Audison AP8.9 forza amp and he said there's no point installing something like a JL audio fix 86 as that does the same thing my current amp does. He didn't overly comment on installing an audio control lc7i. He mentioned something about disconnecting some of the internal microphones?
I once more throw myself on the mercy of the forum......anyone have any ideas or encountered similar issues? Shame to spend all of this time and money only for the system to sound great one song and ***** the next simply because the Jaguar amp seems to keep messing around with the levels.
thanks in advance as always.

 

Yes, verts throw a few more curveballs into the equation and complicate things even more. You may not like this solution but it will give you what you want.

You can get a DAP like a FIIO M11 and use that as your music source. You can then send perfectally flat lossless FLAC digital audio over coax directly to your amp and bypass the Jaguar system completely. You can't get better than that.

You will have changes to sound quality no matter what when you lower your top. Best would be to have a tune with top up and a second tune for top down.

 

You are absolutely correct....that would solve all of the issues, however as the car is new and one of the reasons I upgraded to the P575 was because of the tech.......I do like the way apple car play integrates with the car and how I can use the steering wheel controls etc.

I can't fault you though sir, I asked for ideas and solutions....and you have proposed just that, a genuine solution.

I might leave that option as a if all else fails and the music quality absolutely starts to drive me mad.......then I will consider going DAP.

I did get a guy to tune the DSP on the amp, A and B tune that I can alternate with the press of a button on the DRC in the car, Tune A roof down....tune B roof up.....but not very affective when the car system seems to adjust the levels arbitrarily more than Women moan at me for spending all of my money on cars and bikes ;-0

 

Anyone else have any other suggestions or bright ideas?

 

I am sort of an audiophile. I don't obsess about name brand equipment, I simply use what sounds good to me. I installed a Yamaha home receiver, small home speakers and a 10" sealed sub in a Gulfstream jet years ago. Total cost was about $1000 worth of equipment. It sounded worlds better than the $500,000 factory installation, which consisted of tiny boxed speakers in the overhead units, mylar tweeters, DSP, conversion of the audio signal to firewire and sent to many remote amps, and 6 inch free air subs under every other seat. The OEM setup was never going to sound good, ever.... It did not matter how many speakers we tried, it sucked.

Here is what I think:

Car audio is full of unnecessary insanity. A quality source, a quality amp (no they are not difficult to make), good door speaker choices and a sealed sub (with a dedicated amp that manages bass equalization) in the passenger footwell of a convertible will rock your world. It is a shame that Jag integrated such a crummy setup.

I have a Marshall Stanmore "boom box" for my office. I occasionally use a 12V inverter and put the Marshall on the pax seat or back seat in my truck, or rental car. Very pleasing results! I'm not saying to use a boom box. I am saying that quality audio is not difficult to achieve.

 

Hi guys,
My first post here.
Been following these f-type audio upgrades for a while now.
I have an MY-17 2016 f-type SVR with the Meridian 380W system.
Have noticed the bass roll off after a certain volume.
I'm wondering if it is possible to take say take the MOST optical out of the head unit, convert it to spdif and then into a dsp to null the high pass filter to feed to the onboard power amp?
Or does the system have an optical out from the head unit to the power amp at all?
Trying to understand how these systems hang together.
If it doesn't use MOST optical, then are all the connections analog?

 

Yes, your Meridian system should have a MOST signal. There are interfaces available to give you a flat unprocessed signal for your aftermarket gear. NAVTV makes one I believe.