I have replaced all my original speakers,when I did the research on the forum most the the info was that all the speakers were four ohm.So I ordered the polk and JL speakers to all be four ohm.When I put the speakers together for a picture I notice the on the subwoofer that I removed from the rear had a 2 ohm marking.What is correct?I have attached the pictures so you can see what I mean,its on both speakers.
Also the amount of volume coming out of rear speakers is minimal,should I get an amp to drive the subs or should I wire the rears into the door subs?The door units(Polk)work great as well as the new tweeters I replaced in the dash.I am just disappointed in the preformance in the rear subs.Could this be that I should have looked for 2 ohm units? Or should I put a two way unit in the rear and wire it the same as the door units.Any feedback is welcome.

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I always thought subwoofers should be 2 ohm because it allows more power while other speakers should be in 4 ohms for a cleaner sound?

 

That is very plausible Danster. Eagle, did you adjust your subwoofer volume on the deck to try and compensate? If not, it would not be much effort, or cost, to get a small mono (or stereo amp - bridged) and mount it next to the existing amp/changer/nav to just power the subs. It would be a cleaner signal too, most likely.

 

Well I checked the volume to the rear subwoofers,and the fader was balanced front to rear,but the volume wasn't there.I am ordering a two channel amp next and will see how it works will the JL's,as a backup I will put the 2 ohm original speakers back in and see what performance I get from both.Has anyone put an amp in just to drive their rears? If so did you take the signal from the wires that feed the subs? Any input would be welcome.

 

I think that's a really good choice eagle. Looking forward to hearing how it turns out.

As for signal intercept, either pre-or post amp will work

 

I received the amp for the rear speakers, a Kicker 10ZX200.2 amplifier which has a lot of nice features such as input selection,hi or low level input source.It also has automatic turn on so I didn't have to wire up anything additional.
I mounted the unit in the trunk on the back plate that protects the gas tank.I was able to do all the wiring in the trunk and just spliced everything in.I will replace the wire out to the speakers with a larger gauge when I add a pair of 3.5 speakers by the rear subs at a later date.
Now the rear subs sound like they should,with this amp you have input gain control,bass boost control,crossover switch and crossover control plus 200 watts.Are we ever done?

 

I hate to sound like a dummy when it comes to this but can you be more specific PLEASE?? I also have a 2000 XKR with Alpine stereo, I have already upgraded to the JL subs as well as added to 6' JBL speakers to the back as I have taken out the back seat & mounted the speakers to the back panel. Can you please explain exactally how you wired in the amp as I would love to do this. Thank you in advance

 

I will try to go step by step:
Remove the linings and floor in your truck to expose the factory amp , battery and plate that is in front of the gas tank.Locate an area to mount the amp,make sure that the screws for mounting do not touch the tank.
From the wiring diagram in the JTIS Fig 16.2 Locate connector IC15 on the factory amp and off that connector find the wires that go out to the subs,left side will be white and black/green and the right side will be white/black and yellow/blue.Cut the wires and from the amp it will be your signal in to the new amp,splice RCA connectors to go into the new amp(I got a good set six foot long and cut the plugs off on end and soldered them to the wires from the factory amp)Don't worry about the signal out you will not use it.The other end of the wires that you cut are the ones that go out to your speakers which I soldered speaker wire (about four feet)and ran that over to the speaker connections on the new amp.
To power the new amp I ran 8 ga.with a 30 amp inline fuse to the battery and ground.I didn't have to run a remote turn on because this amp will detect the signal from the source and turn on automatically.The rest of it was just putting it all back together.

 

Hi,
thanks a lot for your interesting article, I think I will also get that Kicker ZX200.2 with 4ohm Kicker subwoofers. Just wondering, once you have now experience, is that amplifier overheating how badly? In another discussion forum it was claimed (needed to drive windows open); once XKR´s trunk is small...
thanks a lot!
-Matti