For no apparent reason the check parking brake orange light came on. On startup. It comes on.

The brake works when I use the switch. Is not dragging.

Any clues? Only 18,000 miles on the clock of a 2018.

 

Believe it or not. This, and any other random electronic issue, is most often related to low battery voltage. First thing: charge the battery FULLY. If the car is on its original battery, it is now in old age.

 

X2 on the battery check.

NEXT

Look at the brake fluid level. Has it been replaced every 2 - 3 years? If not, you could be 'tricked' by the scum inside the plastic reservoir into thinking there is more than actual.

 

As we speak, the battery is being reconditioned by one of the fancy Victron chargers.

we test it out tomorrow. I thought it was a bit low.

Then I will check fluid level. I think I suggest to the dealer I wanted the system flushed. But, I think they think, they know better and ignored my request.

From my reading the battery is a simple change.

 

Checked the brake fluid level. A little low. Normal. Needed two ounces after a year.

voltage after charging over night when parked after a short drive. Only 12.4. Bad battery Likely, considering it was on a good charger.

Going to get a battery tomorrow. $250. My battery is likely a 2017. I guess almost 7 years is about right.

 

Voltage this morning was 12.5

voltage started was 14.5

voltage after motor off. 12.2

bad battery? With those readings I am a little confused.

suggestions?

 

Definitely seems to be a kind of weak AGM battery (assuming, no parasitic drain...HAZARD light goes off after 15 minutes, right?)

Best time to check battery is after a night's 'rest' before you start the car. Often, if you DRIVE to a parts store/dealer and they check it immediately, they say it is OK.

 

morning voltage is 12.5

after driving voltage is 12.2. Some courtesy lights on. 30 minutes later voltage was again 12.5

running 14.5.

stock battery from Jag. Likely a 2017.

 

Your voltage checks are consistent. And, not that bad, for morning readings (assuming here, that you didn't run the battery maintainer overnight before measuring)..

Courtesy lights (interior, trunk, puddle lights) stay on for a few minutes. That might be the cause of lower voltage right after shut down. <---not an issue

I didn't see where you looked at the HAZARD indicator after 15 - 30 minutes? If that is OK, we will set the battery possibility aside, as the source of your Parking Brake Light issue.

If the hazard light is going off as designed, you should disconnect the main battery's GROUND (-) cable for 10 minutes, then reconnect.
If the warning persists, get the OBD codes read by a higher-end scanner....



If I were a dealer, you would owe me $500 USD! Because I'm paid by the hour and I'm a slooow typist!



<<<Nothing is easy, without high-end equipment for determining the actual source of your issue. Even though you say the PB isn't dragging, perhaps it is not retracting fully on release. If the car senses that, you might get the yellow WARNING light (as opposed to a red emergency light).

 

Morning voltage was 12.4.

Went to Autozone to see what their meter said.

they said the battery was fine. I thought voltage was a bit low. CCA was 800. It was 78% charged. Should have been near full.

then when we started the car their device said there was a starting issue. “See the dealer”. Cranking rpm failure.

Hate replacing a good battery.

 

What is the hazard indicator?

 

The emergency flasher/hazard light button.

 

The red WARNING triangle, middle of the dash, above the control switches.

 

Sounds like you'll be replacing a bad battery. Some years back I had an XKR that was exhibiting some weird electrical glitches so I went to a local battery place to buy a new one. They guy said he couldn't sell me one unless he'd tested the existing one and found it bad, so he tested it and said it was good. Hmm. I went home and bought a better one online cheaper(!) with next day delivery and when I fitted it all my problems went away (welll, the car problems!). Go figure. So I'd take "the battery is fine" test result with a handful of salt.

 

I think that is where I am going..

The car needs an oil change. i would not want the dealer to replace it. I think the Duralast is a better battery than they would use. For less money.

The funny part is I am very familiar with batteries. We have a large RV. Batteries are a big deal there. Also I have had a LBC, MG since 1972.

I know my battery voltage is lower then when new.

In an RV I would let it ride awhile. It appears the Jaguar is more sensitive to imperfection.

 

new battery.

brake fluid full

the light remains on.

any other thoughts. When I changed the battery I noticed a loose wire. Near the positive terminal. Very small wires.

 

That white disconnected plug in the vicinity of the battery has been mentioned often here.

It is used by dealers after the car is transported to its 'new' home country.



PS: You need to rake those leaves in your trunk/boot, LOL.

 

Funny

I carefully vacuumed the trunk insert before installing it. The leaf will never be seen again.

Thank you Jaguar. I used the front access for the charging. Used a 12 volt power supply. No loss of any data.

 

I give up.

Tried removing the battery for 10 seconds. Nothing.

Tried the brake electronic disconnect for service. No joy.

Headed for the dealer. They now have a minimum of a month to wait for service. . We are set for 8./20.

Tempted to try another "foreign" car place.

With only 18,000 miles I doubt brakes are the issue.

 

Try a local radio shop to see if they can troubleshoot it for you perhaps.