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Performance Clutch/Flywheel Anyone?

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  #61  
Old 06-16-2018, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
This first clutch would be the first to be tested. Spec will offer a testing price on it to test it with the OEM flywheel. I should have that number today. Since my current clutch is still good, I have no interest in installing it before the lightened flywheel is ready to go in. If you are interested in providing the test sled, pm me and I'll put you in touch with Spec. I'll be providing the test sled for the lightened (billet) flywheel/clutch combo.
Sorry, I'm not interested in being the test mule. But thanks anyway!
 
  #62  
Old 09-18-2018, 12:31 PM
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Default Billet Flywheel on the machine

Performance clutch is built and the 2-piece lightened flywheel is on it's way to completion:




Should save about 28 lbs of rotating mass.
 
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  #63  
Old 09-19-2018, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
Performance clutch is built and the 2-piece lightened flywheel is on it's way to completion:
Should save about 28 lbs of rotating mass.
That is a thing of beauty. That's so exciting.

So it's quicker revs up and down. Does it impact torque (or if torque and horsepower are proportionate, is it inertia that is impacted?? <--- way over my paygrade, and likely sounds like a stupid question).

I assume it's better for quick shifters, and not so great in traffic? What's the real noticeable impact on the experience?
 
  #64  
Old 09-19-2018, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Fishbits
That is a thing of beauty. That's so exciting.

So it's quicker revs up and down. Does it impact torque (or if torque and horsepower are proportionate, is it inertia that is impacted?? <--- way over my paygrade, and likely sounds like a stupid question).

I assume it's better for quick shifters, and not so great in traffic? What's the real noticeable impact on the experience?
Expected benefits:
1. Faster upshifts
2. Faster rev matching on the down-shift
3. Less hp wasted on building rotational inertia (similar to reducing rotor weight).
4. Real cool engine revving at the stop light.
Down sides:
1. Much easier engine stalling from a standstill
2. Possible rough idling or engine surging at idle.

This is definitely not a setup I would recommend for the occasional or weekend MT driver. All of my race cars were built this way as well as two of my street cars (Sunbeam Tiger and C4 Vette)


 
  #65  
Old 09-20-2018, 06:46 PM
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Just an aside on one of Unhingd's earlier posts in this thread:

The gen 4 clutch feels a bit strange. The toggle point is relatively close to the floor, but the point of engagement is higher on the pedal. Those two points usually coincide. At the point of toggle, it requires a typical amount of pedal pressure, but elsewhere in the throw feels a bit wimpy.

If I am understanding this comment: the clutch pedal needs more pressure near the floor, but is light elsewhere and engages rather high in the pedal travel. This is exactly how the clutch feels on my 2016 car! So I am guessing that later 2016's were built with the Gen 4 clutch?
 
  #66  
Old 09-20-2018, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Pard
Just an aside on one of Unhingd's earlier posts in this thread:

The gen 4 clutch feels a bit strange. The toggle point is relatively close to the floor, but the point of engagement is higher on the pedal. Those two points usually coincide. At the point of toggle, it requires a typical amount of pedal pressure, but elsewhere in the throw feels a bit wimpy.

If I am understanding this comment: the clutch pedal needs more pressure near the floor, but is light elsewhere and engages rather high in the pedal travel. This is exactly how the clutch feels on my 2016 car! So I am guessing that later 2016's were built with the Gen 4 clutch?
No. The later 2016’s came with the Gen 2. Gen 3 and 4 came later. Don’t know exactly when they arrived but was MY17+.
 
  #67  
Old 09-20-2018, 11:17 PM
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Bummer. So given that I have 11K miles I likely have a Gen 2 clutch. And from your post it sounds like the Gen 2 may not last that long either - do they all fail at less than 20K miles? I still have warranty but how much does a factory clutch replacement cost on this car anyway?
 
  #68  
Old 09-21-2018, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Pard
Bummer. So given that I have 11K miles I likely have a Gen 2 clutch. And from your post it sounds like the Gen 2 may not last that long either - do they all fail at less than 20K miles? I still have warranty but how much does a factory clutch replacement cost on this car anyway?
My Gen 2 clutch blew up at 14k miles. If your clutch has more than 10k miles, they will probably claim ordinary wear and tear. Dealer will charge about $1650 for the flywheel ( that’s always damaged by the time the clutch goes bad), $530 for the clutch, and $200 for the throw out bearing/cylinder. They’ll hit you up for $2000 in labor. Total ~$4400.
You can get these parts online for, $1030, $330, and $125, respectively, and a good performance shop will install for ~$700. Total ~$2200
 
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  #69  
Old 09-21-2018, 05:11 PM
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Yikes! Thank you for this information; very helpful indeed. I am hoping my clutch stays together for longer. Fingers crossed. It is unacceptable for a clutch to wear out at under 40k miles; that is certainly not normal wear and tear. In Detroit, there is only one independent shop that will touch an F-type (they are a Lotus dealer) and they are not cheap labour wise. Very good shop though. I hope I can put a clutch replacement off for a couple of years...

On a positive note, I finally installed the short throw shifter you developed. Wow - what a difference! I expected the feel to be much better and in my opinion the feel is now reminiscent of a 981 Cayman: precise and no clumsiness with just a slight increase in shift efforts. I didn't, however, realize how much better the ergonomics would be. In my opinion, the stock shifter sits too high because the console itself is elevated and the added shifter length just exacerbates this condition. This modification addresses this ergonomic shortcoming as well and the shifter now readily meets my hand. Bravo!
 
  #70  
Old 09-22-2018, 04:55 PM
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I’ll let you in on a little secret. The stick length above the shifter is exactly what it was before. The length of shaft under the pivot point was increased. The reason it feels Shorter is you don’t have to push it nearly as far forward or pull it as far back as you did before. On the OEM shifter I had to pull my arm behind me to get it into the even gears, and I was leaning forward and punching the four ways and volume buttons when I was shifting into the odd gears. All solved now. Have fun. You’re going to enjoy it.
 

Last edited by Unhingd; 09-22-2018 at 04:57 PM.
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  #71  
Old 10-18-2018, 08:43 AM
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Finally after 10 months, the prototype lightened flywheel and high performance clutch have been finished and are on a local UPS truck to me today. Both have been designed to work together or with the OEM clutch or flywheel. I'll post weights and pics on Monday when I get back from a trip.
 
  #72  
Old 10-18-2018, 09:22 AM
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Hey Lance,

When I asked Stuart about throttle response with the tune, he noted that your car, with the twin pulleys, was particularly sensitive in certain ranges. How do you see that with a dramatically lightened flywheel? I'd like a single-mass flywheel, but not sure how much lighter I can reasonably go, partly due to a commute that frequently has me idling in a conga line up a 10% grade.
 
  #73  
Old 10-18-2018, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by lizzardo
Hey Lance,

When I asked Stuart about throttle response with the tune, he noted that your car, with the twin pulleys, was particularly sensitive in certain ranges. How do you see that with a dramatically lightened flywheel? I'd like a single-mass flywheel, but not sure how much lighter I can reasonably go, partly due to a commute that frequently has me idling in a conga line up a 10% grade.
I don’t know yet. Could be problematic. Let me be the guinea pig. I’ll report back.
 
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  #74  
Old 10-18-2018, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd

I don’t know yet. Could be problematic. Let me be the guinea pig. I’ll report back.
I had no doubt of the report. It was just something specific that came to mind when I was thinking of other things, so thought I'd solicit specific in that report.
 
  #75  
Old 10-19-2018, 01:39 PM
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I really dislike non-linear throttle on my F-type. Drive by wire is not strong point here.
 
  #76  
Old 06-16-2020, 08:34 PM
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Any updates on the spec clutch? I have an appointment on Friday with Jaguar for the slipping clutch but at 24k miles i’m sure they are going to claim wear and tear. If so I rather go with an aftermarket clutch and independent shop. Just pick her up too cpo. Pretty disappointed with the clutch. Everything else is great.
 
  #77  
Old 06-16-2020, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Biaginir
Any updates on the spec clutch? I have an appointment on Friday with Jaguar for the slipping clutch but at 24k miles i’m sure they are going to claim wear and tear. If so I rather go with an aftermarket clutch and independent shop. Just pick her up too cpo. Pretty disappointed with the clutch. Everything else is great.
I have single mass lightened billet flywheel and high performance clutch kit custom built by SPEC. Never got it installed as the gen 4 clutch is still performing well. They are very long lead time items so if interested I could sell you what I have (clutch alone or clutch and flywheel) and I would then put another on order. Caveat: you’d be the beta tester.
 
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  #78  
Old 06-17-2020, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
I have single mass lightened billet flywheel and high performance clutch kit custom built by SPEC. Never got it installed as the gen 4 clutch is still performing well. They are very long lead time items so if interested I could sell you what I have (clutch alone or clutch and flywheel) and I would then put another on order. Caveat: you’d be the beta tester.
I remember I got nearly 40K miles on my first clutch (the first "real" one re-installed on the 2016. I'm still on the proper 2019 one, and wonder.... how long does a clutch last nowadays? Like me being surprised service can go up to 16K miles,vs my old Wranglers 3-5K, I still don't imagine the mechanics or tech behind a clutch is going to last way longer than my Datsun 200sx from the early 80s? I was utterly shocked to see how long they last, tho.

So do we have any data on aggregate average distances for f-type clutches? I know it's how you drive, but have we even done an informal survey? The sample rate of clutches on this board must be tiny tho.
 
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Old 06-17-2020, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Fishbits
So do we have any data on aggregate average distances for f-type clutches? I know it's how you drive, but have we even done an informal survey? The sample rate of clutches on this board must be tiny tho.
I haven't yet heard of any replacement due purely to "wear and tear." I think a few were called that by the dealer, but they were early clutches that happened to survive long enough to be denied warranty. When I was a Saab mechanic, 80-120K was typical for clutch replacement (according to my declining and distant memory), with outliers on both sides of that. People who lived in San Francisco, for example, were on the lower side.
 
  #80  
Old 06-17-2020, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lizzardo
I haven't yet heard of any replacement due purely to "wear and tear." I think a few were called that by the dealer, but they were early clutches that happened to survive long enough to be denied warranty. When I was a Saab mechanic, 80-120K was typical for clutch replacement (according to my declining and distant memory), with outliers on both sides of that. People who lived in San Francisco, for example, were on the lower side.
The only outlier I have to those numbers during my half century of driving was on my 1990 GMC when I was using it as a race car tow vehicle. I would only get 40k out of a clutch under those circumstances.

It’s unlikely we have more than 2 dozen MTs on this forum, so as you suggest, we could infer no statistical significance from a survey.
 

Last edited by Unhingd; 06-17-2020 at 02:52 PM.


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