Hi I was reviewing the shop manual and it says to change the transfer case fluid 48k miles or 3 years.
The transfer case only holds 0.5 litre.
I imagine if the diffs need to be changed regularly then the transfer case would too based on the pictures you showed of your fluid changes.
I will try to post some screen shots of the type of fluid to use and capacity

 

It was time to change the rear differential oil. I was expecting an easy job, but to my surprise the fill plug is not easily accessible . Had me stumped thinking whether I would need to remove the diagonal brace, then found this thread, thank you!

I used the same combination of extensions and easily reached the fill plug. The drained oil was much darker than any other diff oil I’ve done, but still seemed OK and not much metal powder on the magnetic plug. This is at 47K miles. I replaced with BOT720 that I already have, which is the same oil for the LR4 with locking diff. I had to get a bit creative with an extra hose and rubber coupler as the hook tip of the pump I have couldn’t fit in the tight space. Filled to around 1.2L which actually reached the fill plug.

 

I’ve bought few of those before, they always seem to be one time use. I use an OilSafe pump and have several of their drums for various fluids:
OilSafe 102000 Black Standard Pump
I’ve been using it for 6+ years for transmission, transfer case, and diff fluid changes for all my cars. More expensive, but works really well and pumps faster.

 

Changed the fluid on my '16S today. Using the wobble extension and ball end hex worked a treat, thanks for the tip. I was able to get everything done by lifting the rear drivers side only. Fluid was dark at 37,000 and likely was the factory fill. Filled her up with some Royal Purple max gear with a new hand pump (got over 10 faithful years out of the old one!) Nice piece of mind knowing I've got fresh fluid back there now when out giving 'er 👌

 

I am looking to do the diffs and the transfer case this weekend.
Not sure what brand to use or whether I should just go to the dealer to purchase
I have used Mobil 1 for years in my S2000 for the diff
I don't see the BOT 720 or SAXFO referenced on any of the products online for Mobil 1 or Motul or Royal Purple ( BOT 720)

Could you let us know which you used ?
Thank you

 

I put all of the information in the DIY PDFs I wrote attached above. I used Motul 300 LS 75/W90 in my fill. Mine is 5.0 SC V8 R.

DC

 

Hi DC,
thank you I do see the fluid you used.
I will see if I can get this fluid locally.
Much appreciated.

 

Sure. On the front one, I also have the cross reference for BMW oil part number.

DC

 

Thanks to TheRock88 for his guide.

Can anyone who has changed gear diff oil give an indication of how long it took to carry out the change

 

Took no more than 45 minutes from the time the car was on stands to the time it was back on the ground

 

I can't find the specs on the OEM Castrol BOT720, has anyone been able to confirm that the Motul 300 LS 75/W90 is the same as OEM?

 

Some time ago I thought I stumbled across a site that mentioned the BOT720 met the specs of API GL-5, which the aforementioned Motul does meet. Of course I can't find that site now. I would imagine any reputable synthetic gear lube with limited slip additive that meets the GL-5 spec should be good for use in the F-Type rear. I know jack-S about the e-differential in the V8 cars but I believe others on the forum have been running the Motul and Royal Purple in it with no ill effects. I've got a month worth of spirited miles on my S after changing to Royal Purple and if it wasn't up to the task, I would have known by now

 

Just picked up my car an hour ago from the dealer. They changed my Diff fluid included 2 new plugs $180
Also had them do the brake fluid flush and fill charged $140 for that service. Not bad when you can get out of a dealer ship for under
$400!
They did their standard multi point inspection as well for what its worth, found nothing.

My car is a V8S RWD car. Thought I would let people know so there is a comparable price point to work from for both services.

 

Thanks... I was just about to ask that exact question.

 

I may have missed it, but what are the sizes of the hex fill and drain plugs? In other words, which size to use to remove?

 

The drain plug is square drive. Use a 3/8" ratchet extension. The fill plug is 8mm hex.

 

Same question. AutoHausAZ says Motul 300 LS 75/W90 is not the right oil.

 

My service slip for the dealer says they used oil Part# LR019727 which if you google it say its specific for electronic differentials.
My car is a 2014 V8 S rear wheel drive not sure about AWD cars. Its funny how the fluids that go in these cars...like the oils seem to be
some kind of secret that the public need not know about.

Honestly could have done the change myself but I was not willing to guess at what fluid to put in and chance messing up my E-DIFF!
Not for the price point of $180. Charged for 2 quarts of fluid @ $51 ea and $7 for plugs...$80 labor. Just not worth my effort.

The brake fluid flush also made my brake pedal feel firmer. Pad still had 8mm on the fronts and 6mm on the rears so plenty of pad left.

 

That's the truth. I've never had a car where the toughest thing about doing your own maintenance was finding the correct fluids. I have the 2105 V8S so I think the same engine. I am thinking it might be easier to take it to the dealer, but I have the tools and time so why not (famous last words). I wondering if any API GL-5 would be fine. I'd prefer to run down and grab some Mobile 1 API GL-5 diff fluid versus ordering online.

 

Yeah I hear you on that with the tools and time thing. I do worry when it comes to these cars about putting in the recommended fluids
if you can sort out what is actually approved. The engine oil spec might be a little more lenient as long as you use the recommended weight and
change your oil every 5k. I would never weight 16k to change oil that's just insane.

I look at it from the stand point of time and materials cost vs paying the dealer. The correct Jag/LR diff fluid online was $48 a quart 2X.
That's more then 1/2 the cost for the dealer to do it? Not worth it for me to climb under and do the work for an extra $80.
But that's me.