Mine was right at five years and 36k. The oil definitely looked thick solid black. I wish I had changed mine much sooner.

That's where my fill hole was. I was initially just going by what the video showed until I figured out that I had a different differential housing. Fortunately I didn't find it too difficult.

 

I changed mine for the second time yesterday. First change was @38k, on a replaced differential, so I really don't know the exact mileage. Second change @70k.
The condition of the oil was not as bad as my initial change, but was still pretty dark and there was a notable amount of metal particulate on the plug. Personally, I wouldn't go much beyond 30k without a drain and refill. Just sharing a data point.

 

I changed mine this morning, refilling with Redline 75W-90 (the one spec'd for limited slip differentials). Differential oil always looks and smells nasty coming out, and this was no different. The drain plug magnet looked normal too. At about 45K miles I was expecting worse given the reports here, but I'd say it was normal. Nevertheless, I'm glad it's done. I'll likely do it again at about 60K and get on a 30K service interval.

Confirming the capacities listed for the various units fitted: I have a V6S (mechanical LSD) and the one quart I got was just slightly more than needed.

 

Thanks for the DIY Rock. I just did mine last week while I had the car jacked up installing my Eibach springs, super simple job. I put in around ~850-900ml of Motul Gear 300 LS, considering some minor spillage and the volume still left in the fluid pump tubing.

The fluid that came out was acrid (as usual for diff fluid) but also super black, definitely factory fluid as my car just hit 30k. The drain plug also had a good amount of gunk on it, I'm thinking likely from the break-in period. Likely the next change (I'll do it at 60K) the fluid will be in better shape.

I was also able to access the fill plug from the left rear wheel well with a 24" 3/8 extension and a T50 torx bit, no wobble joint or anything required.

 

Note the oil many have used (incl. your instructions) is the 300 LS option. Yet, when you use Motul's site recommendation you linked, it lists the non-limitedslip version. Any thoughts on why the difference?

 

I don't think the LS means or stands for Limited Slip but I don't know what it stands for.
All I can find is that the LS version is supposedly more heavy duty, for racing applications etc, and the non-LS version is equally suitable for limited slip diffs.
I bought a one litre bottle of the LS a few weeks ago (it was only a couple of $ more than the non-LS) and I'm taking it to my mechanic next Tuesday to have the diff fluid changed, I will ask his advice but I doubt he will say the LS version is not perfectly suitable.

 

Note the bottle of LS has a graphic on the front that says "limited slip" right below the "LS" whereas the non-LS does not have that graphic:
https://www.motul.com/be/en/products/gear-300-ls-75w90
https://www.motul.com/be/en/products/gear-300-75w90

 

Yep, I think you are correct!
The LS one says, quote: "....All hypoïd differentials with limited slip system, gearbox with integrated limited slip differential,..."
while the non-LSD one says, quote: "....All mechanical transmissions synchronized or non-synchronized gearboxes, gearbox/differential, transfer boxes or hypoid differentials without limited slip system..."
Going by that us F-Type owners should use the LS version if we have either the e-diff (all V8s) or the V6S with the mechanical LSD, and the non-LS version if we have a base model V6 with an open diff.
Lucky I bought the LS version then!

 

Use what works for you/your car, or have a dealer handle it if you are unsure or have concerns. You will note the factory specs were also listed as options.

DC

 

Using an LS-designated oil in a base model open differential will not cause any issues.
Unless you object to paying a couple dollars more.
I used a 75W-140 weight oil instead of 75W-90 this time.

 

Right, the LS seems like it would be the correct one, yet... What's curious is Motul, which makes both, specifically lists the non-LS when using their product selector. Of course, there's nothing magic about their selector and it encompasses hundreds of cars and models: it could be a basic mistake on their part to list the non-LS version.

 

This is my first car with a limited-slip differential, so I paid a bit more attention when I got replacement oil. My understanding is that the LS oils have friction modifiers to make the limited slip action less grabby. Red Line even has an additive to "reduce chatter." The local auto parts folks said that some of the BMW owners get it when they change diff oil. I figured I could add some if needed, but I've had no complaints so far.

 

A great thread indeed. As an FYI and not sure how relevant, My 17 V6S had started to make an almost imperceptible 'growling' noise in the rear diff when moving at walking speed and turning. In a straight line it was quiet. I took the car to my dealer (who I really like BTW - they are great) and they changed the rear diff oil (oh 26k Miles) - voila - sound gone! Apparently something had happened to the oil that made the LSD 'grabby' - whatever that means . Regardless that sounds like just cause to replace the oil more often than the recommended schedule I feel.

 

Yeah...Great! For as cheap and easy as it is to do, it seems a no-brainer to keep that oil fresh in the Diff's. Especially given this is what it looks like @ around 20K MIles

DC

 

I just wanted to chime in that I have confirmed BOT 720 for the S and R models is in fact a synthetic 75W-90 weight oil (Doing some reading I saw lots of conflicting information) and is the same fluid as land rover LR019727 (confirmed though JLR MSDS as they share the same SDS number: 5583.) They are bottled completely differently for the Jaguar vs land rover version so I was skeptical that they were in fact the same. Land rovers oil has 75W-90 printed right on the bottle.
If you are considering using an aftermarket fluid and want to stick with OE weight go for 75W-90 limited slip oil.

 

HI all - new to the forum,

@Therock88 - Thank you for the great write-up. I have a 2016 F-type S-AWD with 71,000
I had a pretty bad growl, and took the chance it was the diff. It sure was; first oil change reduced the noise by 50%. Flushed it again after 10miles of driving and now it's silent.
BTW: local places were out of the 8mm, so I used the T50 and it came out with minimal effort. I also used Royal Purple Max 75-90 : approx 890ml

Thanks again - Joel

 

Just did this job after putting it off for about a year for some reason. 2015 V8S with 22,500 miles. Quick recap on learnings... Took the rear wheel off the driver's side and spotted the fill plug easily. Removed fill pug easily as you have a pretty straight shot at it. Drain plug was obviously very easy and filling was straight forward with a 3/8 inch tube I bought at ACE Hardware and a bike stand (see pic). I needed about 7 feet of tube. I also taped the tube to a thin rod of metal about 20 inches long leaving about 3 inches of tube free at the end to insert into the Diff. This gives you the ability to guide it into the hole. What I didn't expect is that getting the fill cap back on was extremally difficult for for me. It took more time for me to get that thing threaded than it did to do the entire rest of the job. It looks like it would be easy, but it just wouldn't take. I would recommend a magnetized T50 as dropping it and retrieving the cap gets old pretty quick. Old oil looked good so no issues there for me. Other than that I think it's a pretty hard job to screw up so if you've been putting it off then go ahead and jump in....

 

I was thwarted inserting the fill plug until I went and got a ball end wrench. Like you it was impossible to line up without any "play" between the fitting and the tool.

 

Exactly what I found. See post 41 of this thread.

 

Hi DC, thank you for the detailed write up, great work as always.

Planning to get this done plus changing the pinion seal while at it, do you know what is involved with the pinion seal change? Can't find any info online and not sure if the pinion seal part# C2C41650 is the only part needed?

I'm gonna visit the dealership in the next few days to take off the wheel locks, I will ask them for a written quote, not sure if that will list all parts required though.