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Rear hatch liftgate struts not closing or lowering
For the life of me, I can't seem to find a relevant thread or post about replacing the rear liftgate struts. There are some similar posts but nothing helpful. I'm posting from my phone, so it may be the format of the forum that is making it more difficult for me.
Anyway, I'm trying to find a way to remove the struts and install the new ones. JLR wanted to charge me $1400 to do it. I'm mechanically inclined, so I told them no. If it was $140, I might have said yes. Does anyone have tips and tricks to replace these struts? I was able to loosen the clip (last photo) and pop off the strut from the ball head.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will post here with more photos and write up a DIY set of instructions once this project is finished.
I am sure you have check fuse right, there is also a module mounted over the fuse box that controls the trunk hatch.
Here is one online that would be a cheap you could give a shot before replaceing the actuators.
I am sure you have check fuse right, there is also a module mounted over the fuse box that controls the trunk hatch.
Here is one online that would be a cheap you could give a shot before replaceing the actuators.
I didn't check the fuse. Are there actually separate fuses for the liftgate even though it still opens when I hit the buttons? I don't have to manually open it, but I do when I close. I'll see if I can't find the fuse box and check for a fuse issue.
Silly me that I trusted the dealership when they told me it was the struts. I'll have to chat with them if it's just a fuse.
I put no faith in what a dealer says. I had obvious noise in my audio system that the dealer conviently said was not there. I guess I should not believe my lying ears since the dealer said everything was fine. That is what sent me down a rather expensive rabbit hole replacing 99% of the factory audio system. If it were mine I would try the module. If it worked then cheap fix if not you could always resell it.
Last edited by Jag Bass; Apr 18, 2024 at 05:10 AM.
I'm having a hard time finding replacement struts for the rear lid. Several sites advertise their struts as rear lift gate supports or struts, but I've ordered from 2 different sources and both were mistaken. I'm at a loss. I have yet to find the fuse box for the lift gate.
You seem to suggest from what I have read is you can open the boot with the button but not close it ???
if so it can’t be the fuse so don’t both looking for it as there is obviously power going through
You seem to suggest from what I have read is you can open the boot with the button but not close it ???
if so it can’t be the fuse so don’t both looking for it as there is obviously power going through
Correct. I can use the FOB or the dash button to open the hatch, even though it opens slowly. However, it won't close if I use the button on the lift or the FOB.
Correct. I can use the FOB or the dash button to open the hatch, even though it opens slowly. However, it won't close if I use the button on the lift or the FOB.
How’s your battery condition?
I had trouble with the lid opening and closing like you.
JLR replaced my battery under warranty last fall, and this problem got fixed along with some others.
No surprise there.
I'm not sure how I missed this thread, but I apologize. After this thread got started, I became very busy with work and personal life events. Let's update things.
After 2 attempted orders for rear hatch struts and receiving front struts, I gave up. Both companies I ordered from advertised the struts for the rear hatch but sent me front ones. I believe they have no clue what they're selling. So now I have a pair of front struts for the hood.
As for the rear hatch, it still doesn't shut except by hand. Damn frustrating. Now that winter is soon upon us, I will have time to do some shopping and find the module and try that route. I really don't want to pay JLR over $1k just to replace the struts.
Valerie, thank you for the link to the other thread. That is most helpful. Hopefully, it's the solution to my problem.
Last edited by Pcar2Jag; Nov 10, 2024 at 11:34 AM.
Last. month I went to my local JLR dealer for an oil change under warranty. I also had them revisit the powered lift gate problem.
Sometimes it goes up only part way, and sometimes it goes down only part way. Sometimes it’s OK. They replaced the right strut last visit.
This time they replaced the left strut, the soft-close latch, and lastly, the T2R21150 Module-Control. The invoice includes terms like “Scan for trouble code”, “diagnosed using pin point test” “cable resistance measurement” and “code C200631”. So, I think they did their best to diagnose the problem rather than just throwing parts at it.
They had the car for ten days and provided a loner. The service advisor kept me informed daily by voice or text.
So far, so good. The hatch is working properly, now! I hope this is the end of the story, as I am 4 years into the 5-year warranty. I can only guess what this repair would have cost out-of-pocket!
End of story, I hope!