So I recently took my F-Type R AWD MY16 to the dealer for its 48th-month service. The dealer could not perform the service because of the car being too low to go up the inspection ramp, so they called me to pick my car up. Upon entering my garage and turning the vehicle off a red battery symbol came up with the text "Car battery low, start the car". So I started the car and it started without problems, and then I started it one day later, and then the warning message was gone. After that, I went on a business trip. When I came back approx 1 week later the car was totally dead. No lights, no unlocking via the key-fob, no nothing. I called the dealer and asked them if they had done anything and they said that the only thing they did was to perform a "reset of the car" before realizing the car was too low to go up the ramp, which lead to them calling me to get my car back.

Could this "reset of the car" by the dealer have been performed incorrectly? I find it difficult to believe that something like the alternator suddenly could have stopped working RIGHT after I left the dealer. And I have the feeling like a drain shouldn't have affected the car while it's just been running, so my hypothesis is that the battery isn't charging correctly. To get the car back to the dealer now I need to start the car, so is there any way to reset the system again and hopefully get the battery charging again, or do I need to get myself a tow-truck?

Any advice or ideas would help!

 

First: I can't believe that a JLR dealer would not have a 'inspection ramp' that would not accommodate yours (and other customers' F-Types)!

I'd suggest that you (or the dealer) needs to reset the battery: disconnect the ground stud in the cargo compartment for 20 seconds. THEN the battery needs to be recharged (either by a 30 - 45 minute drive, , or a battery charger/maintainer (SEARCH "CTEK").


Normally a JLR dealer's OBDII equipment will not cause an issue after disconnect, but I suppose it could happen.

 

It's the old ODB drain issue. When the dealer connected their diagnostic equipment and unplugged it, it causes the battery drain fault. You'll need to disconnect the battery, charge it, then it will have reset the ODB plug to stop the drain. All will be well.

 

Well, they only had one ramp for lower cars and it was occupied. Also, I don't think that it helps with the fact that I've lowered my car by 3cm

But I'll try unplugging the battery for 20 seconds and then go for a little ride to see if the problem gets solved

 

Not a 'little' ride...a glorious LONG ride!

Don't forget to check the dash after 20 minutes of inactivity to assure that the warning triangle is extinguished.

 

I hope it's not a 5 year old battery your dealing with.

 

Dealers don't seem to have a clue. Mine went in for an InControl software update and I had the dreaded red triangle on the next day. I also had warning messages. I disconnected the battery negative for 15 mins, and then charged with a CTEK battery conditioner. All warning messages disappeared and all fine now.
Just make sure you have a clean negative terminal disconnect and connect. Don't allow random arcing - not good for your systems.

 

At the risk of tempting fate, it's worth mentioning that modern agm batteries possibly have longer lifetime than older technology flooded lead acid batteries and in any case the lifespan of any battery type will have a spread of values.

My 2016MY F type has the original five and a half years old battery and is functioning fine so whilst it's a possible symptom of an old failling battery it's not a high probability particularly in view of the symptom occurring immediately after a trip to the dealer

 

If it were fine we would not be discussing it right now. It's old. Spend the 200.00 dollars and get rid of the problem.

 

If the battery will still start the car after you detect the battery low light (after an ODB plugin), then just disconnect the battery for 15 seconds and take the car out for a drive. That will resolve all. The OP had the ODB drain issue... no need to fix anything that ain't broke. Save the $200 for when you really need a new battery.

 

I would think even a long drive will not fully charge a completely dead battery. I'd get it fully charged on a charger.

 

This morning for the first time my V8S had the low battery warning light displays and would not start. Most of the time it’s on the maintainer and this time was only off and not driven for about 3 days. No OBD connections or dealer visits so my 3/2014 battery may finally be kicking the bucket. I’ve got it down at the service guy now for break pad replacements (porterfield RSs) and they are going to load test the battery and perhaps replace it.

To get it started I did the hard reset disconnecting the battery for 20 seconds then putting it on the charger for 30 minutes. It started With no warning lights and I drove it 30 minutes to the dealer but when I turned it off the low battery signal reappeared again. We shall see later today what the prognosis is.

 

If the battery was low 30 minutes won't have put much charge in it, and starting the car might have drained a lot of that anyway. But 6 years is good for a battery's life.

 

Contact Unhingd . I'm sure he can give you some tips on how to get that battery going for a couple more years.

 

As it turns out it was well and truly dead. Couldn’t hold a charge anymore. Six plus years certainly is not too bad for sure. Even our esteemed Unhingd I suspect would recommend replacement if only for weight savings

So end result, new pads are on and feel great, new Interstate battery in and on the CTEC tonight to start it off right, but the only thing we did learn that was not so great was that there was some dried coolant on the water pump. Not a lot but it appears that the pump has a very small and slow leak. Rather than risk it failing I’m having it replaced next week and going to have them double check the hoses as well given the other threads on this subject. At 47k miles I want to stay ahead of the curve.

 

Hmm, my battery is coming up to six years old (Oct 2014 build date), I better keep a close eye on it!
I stick it on the battery tender about once per fortnight and it had never given me the slightest hint of a problem, but of course now that I have talked about it it will probably conk tomorrow!
The other hassle is the cost of a new battery here in Oz - around three times what it costs you lucky Yanks!

 

Well that's not fair. Why so much more.

 

Here in Oz almost everything "luxury" car-related costs two to three times what you lucky Yanks pay - purchase price, fuel, batteries, wheels, tyres etc etc.
Due to economies of scale, gummint taxes, zero local manufacturers and import costs.
You really don't know how lucky you are!

 

Sure. Try this: https://ezbatteryreconditioning.com/...tioning.top%2F
I also have a bridge for sale.

 

Well I feel bad for you.