Sorry if I am doubling up here but I could not find a thread specifically about this although I know there are at least half a dozen posts scattered across various threads (and I couldn't find a single one of them!).
Anyway, my original button was showing some wear and tear, with the lettering being a bit scratched and crappy looking. I only noticed it a few weeks ago when it was in bright sunshine but it most probably had been crappy for years.
I went to buy one (Ignis version) from my preferred supplier Britcar as they yet again were the cheapest, but they got back to me a couple of days later to advise "all known suppliers are out of stock so we are cancelling your order and giving you a refund".
I then found one, count 'em one eBay seller, in Lithuania. A little more expensive than Britcar but still OK.
I took the punt and bought one from them, and it rolled up today on the slow boat from China.
Not a problem, the correct ridgy didge item!
Now to get to the actual point of this post.
Various methods of removing the existing button have been touted on this forum, including:
1. Wrap a credit card or similar around it and jerk it up (how????).
2. Wrap some dental floss or fishing line under/around it and pull it up.
3. Put a dry wall screw in it and pull it out (obvious ruination of the original button!).
4. Lever the surrounding trim piece off (risking broken clips and/or poor fit on replacement I guess).
5. Flip/lever it out with a trim removal tool or small screwdriver.
I considered all of these methods for roughly two nanoseconds before I tried door number 5. with my smallest trim removal tool.
Instant success, no fuss no muss!
New button plugged in and working perfectly.

 

The button is removed easily using either your #4 or #5, as you have found. Removing the trim piece is dead easy and there really is not much chance of damaging anything unless you have gorilla hands. But one thing...how are you planning to prevent the same scratching and wear? When I replaced mine I coated the switch button with clear satin polyurethane for plastics. The finish is excellent and the chances of wear are just about zero. My new P switch received the same treatment before it went in. I have used this practice on many cars, always with complete success (meaning no more visible wear).

 

I didn't even consider coating the new button with anything, but now I will!
Thanks for the idea.

 

These buttons must wear super easily: there's a used R in Melb with only 7,000 kms on it that is quite scratched....probably been driven on 1,400 5km test rides.

 

As far as I can figure out (and the same with the Park button) it's all about the finger nail(s).
All ya gotta do is make sure whichever fingertip you use for those buttons (and I assume pretty much everyone would use the same fingertip for both buttons) you keep the nail trimmed nice and short.
May not be quite so easy though for those drivers of the female persuasion, especially those that sport extra long fingernails!

 

Yes, OZ is correct: it is all about finger nail damage. But coating the buttons as described (and I also have done the audio on/off button) eliminates the issue - it also eliminates the "sticky button" issue (which, as a matter of record, my car does not and never did have).

 

I suspect drivers with long / sharp fingernails for the start / stop button. I suspect wedding rings being responsible for the P button damage (I've scratched my replacement already using my ring). This does seem to suggest that divorce is the most effective solution but currently I'm sticking with simply banning SWMBO from driving the Jag altogether. Usually this would't work but when she's a passenger I make sure to have the occasional moment of oversteer now and again ("they're just like that honey, you need to be ready for it...") and that seems to make her sufficiently scared to not want to drive it

 

Another reason that LHD is advantageous.

 

It's far easier to remove than you would suspect although I've seen people put a shallow screw in it and pull it out it's not really necessary. Just gentle prey around it and it will pop off. There's a few inches of wire and a plug. Unplug it and plug the new one in. You can purchase a new one for $32 for a dealer.

 

I wrapped a few inches of my good lady's sewing thread around the 'bezel' of the switch, pushed it down behind with a wooden cocktail stick and after a couple of winds around it pulled out with ease. Much easier than getting the b**ard cigar lighter / 12v socket thing out from the other side, not that you need to do this right now luckily

 

#2 worked for me. Took a matter of seconds.

 

Anyone try one of these 'covers'. Looks much nicer than factory, but of course you sacrifice the flashing light. Since mine has a little wear and I've had a new orange/same replacement in a box for a couple years I might try it. I have anodized black paddles so the orange wouldn't be missed.

If it sucks, who cares - $14.00 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Keyless...n/382879619638

 

Ordered the above. Will advise if it is nice or a piece of crap! My first reaction is at $14 it must be junk. However my $20 puddle lights are great, so who knows?

 

I like my black flashy light thingy button, but that red bezel would be a nice touch. Let us know if that looks like it can be transferred onto an OEM button.

 

It's a Jaguar's resting heartbeat!

 

Exactly. You can’t tear the beating heart out of your kitty.

 

Heartbeat, fartbeat. I definitely like the look a lot better. Will keep my new spare EOM if I change my mind or if it doesn't last.

 

I wasn't sure if I should start a new thread or respond to this old one.
I am planning to replace the start/stop button on my 2014 F-Type, and before I do I want to coat it with something to try to protect it. (I don't want an aftermarket button, I like the orange, and I like the blinky light)
I see someone used 'clear satin polyurethane', but I am not too familiar with what a good brand of this would be. My other idea was to use a sealant I just bought for another project, called "Mr. Super Clear". It's from Japan and I guess people usually buy it for plastic models and action figures to protect the paint jobs (I used it to save writing on a white board).
I think the button assembly can be disassembled to get at just the bare orange plastic part, and then I could just spray it from there? I was wondering if there were any new tips, a search did not bring much up.
Thanks.

 

Replacing the button is pretty simple. You can finesse it out with something like dental floss (wrapped around to grab the button), or just brute force it by drilling a small hole, insert a screw, and pull. (I went with the brute force method and think there are pictures in the "How-To" sticky.) Like some others, I sprayed the new button with clear semi-gloss before installing it. I used Rustoleum, but I expect any good brand would do fine. It's not the most abused place for wear, it just has to protect against the salt in your hands.

 

I wanted to share some photos of the torn down button, and the clear coat/sealant I used on the orange bit.
The button is really simple inside, just an LED and switch essentially. Not much for the $80 it cost, haha.
It looks good, I can only hope that it lasts. Might try replacing the orange gearshift paddles in the same manner if it holds up.