I'm not a mechanic!
Looking for advice on changing my oil and filter every 1000 miles.
Have a friend whom has a Mercedes whom can just open the hood, suck out the oil, change the filter because it's on top, re-fill with same amount extracted. Buys his oil online. Costs about $50. bucks.

Do they have a pump that extracts the oil for a Jag ?
What type oil?
Is the filter accessible from the top and easy?
Anything else needed?
Instructions appreciated

 

Mityvac - works great. There is a Youtube video showing the process on an F-type. You don't need to be a mechanic... Harder part is finding the exact right engine oil, found some on ebay, but its not always available.

 

+1. The right oil is Castrol Edge Professional OE 5W-20. The oil filter is right on top of the engine...easy to access. The right filter is C2D3670. The LandRover number for the same filter is LR011279.


DJS found this link:Castrol Edge Oil Change Kit For LR4 And Range Rover Full Size, Sport


If you scout around online for the oil and filter separately, you might find a better deal.

 

It's a piece of cake on the F-Type.
Yes, the F-Type has an oil extraction tube, it is smack in the middle of the oil filler hole, just take the oil cap off and you can't miss it.
You can buy a simple 8 litre extraction pump on Fleabay for not many $, you just connect the tube over the top of the oil extraction tube with the appropriate sized adapter and pump away until you are getting nothing but air. Disclaimer - I have never used this method because I am too lazy to buy a pump and I have always drained the oil from below by removing the sump plug, but that method is a bit tedious because you have to remove the front under-tray to access the sump plug. For the next oil change I will buy a pump!
The oil filter is also a cinch to change, again right on top of the engine (front left), just take the engine cover off to access it. It's the "filter element inside a plastic canister" type, you screw the canister off, pull the old element out, put a new element in and screw the canister back down (but not too hard, mine has alignment marks on it and the housing so you know when to stop tightening). You should also replace the rubber sealing ring on the canister, the new filter comes with a new ring. By sheer coincidence I bought a new filter this morning from Rimmer Bros as they have a 15% off sale for Oz customers atm! The canister *should* twist off without too much trouble, but sometimes a gorilla has screwed the bejeezus out of it and it is stuck real hard. I had this problem on my old XFR (exact same oil filter) and I spent weeks trying all sorts of filter removal tools before I finally found one that worked - a contracting strap type with rubberized grips. If you need to you should be able to get one from your local auto parts store for not many $.

 

Are you sure about that oil spec Lance?
Coz in the manual and on the oil filler cap the recommended spec is 0W-20 not 5W-20. On the earlier 5.0 SC engines (such as the early XFR) the spec was 5W-20 but JLR changed it to 0W-20 around 2012/2013.
That said, I use 5W-20 coz I live in a hot climate and I believe 0W-20 is a bit too thin for my local summer conditions.
If I was Magical I would go with 0W-20 unless he also is in a hot climate.

 

Oz, you answered your own question. The OP is in Florida (hot climate summer, warm winter), so the 5W-20 is more appropriate. Since I run my car year round in the Mid Atlantic region, I use 0W-20. I believe I remember seeing both suggested somewhere by Jag based on ambient temps. The only reason for specifying 0W vs 5W is to eek out just a bit more fuel economy. These engines are not hard to start, so the difference in viscosity between 0 and 5 is a non-issue for this engine (and the 5W potentially offers better engine protection).

 

#1) You should NEVER be changing oil every 1,000 miles. But you probably just mis-typed so let's ignore this one

#2) The oil Jaguar uses has a special dye in it. If you change oil with "just any old oil" or even the same spec without the dye and have an issue with the engine, Jaguar will see that difference and could question what oil you used and why. They could reject any engine claims unless you could PROVE that the way you changed the oil and which oil you used were done with knowledge. You already killed that position by posting on a public board this post so... hope you don't run into any engine issues in the future should you decide to go through with this

#3) As you are not a mechanic you may not be aware of the engine damage that can occur from running an engine with a severely overfilled oil. A number of people on here have even had the Jaguar dealerships mistakenly overfill their oil at dealer-executed oil changes time so... it's apparently super easy to do (do a search on this forum for overfilled oil or similar)

#4) Since there is no physical oil measuring device, it's hard to know when you have the correct amount in the vehicle unless you are experienced. How much of what you take out is retained in the block when an oil change is performed, etc

In other words, you may want to re-think doing it yourself as this is not a honda accord.

 

Bunka, I have been changing my own oil for over 40 years now, including the F-Type, and have never had a problem. Never over-filled, never under-filled, smack on the money every single time. I suppose I qualify as "experienced"!
My point is, unless the car is still in warranty, there is nothing to lose by changing the oil yourself as long as you take your time and do plenty of research beforehand (procedure, oil spec, amount of oil etc). Most importantly you know for sure it has been done right unlike some of the experiences with dealerships on this forum. And the savings on labour and parts mark-up are not to be sneezed at either!

Edit - I suspect the OP is thinking of doing extra oil changes between the scheduled changes, lots of F-Type owners do this (eg at six months or 8,000 miles) and is just looking for advice about DIY.
To me if the car is still in warranty it's a toss up and the risk of blowing the warranty is probably not worth the benefit of the extra oil changes.

 

Changing oil using the specified Castrol Edge Pro OE can't possibly compromise the warranty if you check the oil level after the change. The problem is that the dealership is too rushed/careless to spend an extra 10 minutes doing the job right and will just dump in the specified amount of oil.

 

Where do you get the adaptor(s) to fit that small suction tube?


I have a oil pumper-outer but the tube that goes down into the dipstick tube (on any other car) is too large for the small one on the FT.


Thanks in advance for an answer.

 

I use a hose that fits snugly around the top of the car's suction tube. No reason to push anything down into that tube.

 

As a shadetree mechanic myself, the idea of doing my own oil changes on the Jag appeals to me and I see no issues with the method Lance and others have espoused. ...so far I haven't bothered since it's a "once in a year event" for me.

.....but changing the oil every 1000 miles is overkill in the extreme as others have mentioned. Mine has been changed at intervals not much more than that but only because of the "1 year/whichever comes first" warranty clause.

Dave

 

FYI, the shop manual lists 25Nm as the torque for the filter. Considering doing this myself.

 

Can anyone say the exact quantity of oil to refill with after oil sucked/ pumped out.

The factory book says 7.25 liters. or is it quarts. Please someone chime in with U.S. measurements in quarts.

Or is best way to add exactly what was taken out? Thanks

 

The prescribed oil comes in liter containers. Add 6.5 liters and run the engine to get the oil into the filter. Wait 10-15 minutes to read the level. From that you can determine how much more needs to be added. Subsequent readings do not require the engine to be started. If it the level goes over max, it's easy enough to suck it back out. Then after you take it for the first full drive, it's good practice to check it again. Bottom of the oil gauge to top is 1 liter.

 

Unhinged, I believe your info is incorrect, at least by my Gold Castrol Professional SAE 5W - 30 container that says 1 US quart.

6.5 liters of oil = 6.86847 US quarts (almost a whole quart lower than required)

After further research the Jaguar F-type handbook says:

7.25 liters capacity which is equal to 7.66099 US quarts.
Strange the Handbook only refers to liters and pints, not quarts.

Now my next question is :
is the F-type electronic oil gauge always correct? Is it reliable?
I think I would prefer to see with my own eyes with a oil stick!!

Happy Motoring!!!

 

 

The mityvac hose fits perfectly on the F-type, no adapter needed. As for oil amount, there is a difference between rwd and awd in total capacity, but since mityvac has clear markings on canister you can see quite clearly how much you have removed, I then added the same amount of new oil, then checked the level and it was perfect.

This is a simple process to do correctly, do not over think it. Chances are that the vehicle owner doing this for himself will be more careful and will de a better job than the dealer mechanic would. (read of all the overfill horror threads posted elsewhere).

 

oh well,
Jaguar at best is ambiguous with their information.

Jaguar seems to create more questions than answers!

My supplementary information that succeeds any prior information says both
the 3.0L v6 and the 5.0L V8 to use SAE 5W-20W engine oil meeting specification
wss-m2c925 and if unavailable to then use 0W-20 engine oil meeting stjlr.51.5122 specs. my bottle of castrol professional also says OE on it where your picture shows only the E and the units used on my bottle is in quarts.

I don't care about being right I just don't want to be wrong!
I don't want to add to the "overfill horror threads posted elsewhere".

I have never done an oil change on the F-type and have never used the Mityvac either, this is why I ask questions, Thanks to all who have given information, it is very helpful in figuring out the correct information.

I am planning a change of oil tomorrow. Wish me luck!

Thanks for making me do research for myself...

Happy Motoring...

 

There's also a procedure to reset the service indicator. Perhaps someone can post a link to it. I probably have it somewhere.