Please see my previous post introducing myself.
I have a 2014 F-Type S with 86,000 miles. It has been running great with the exception of a few minor things. I drove it about 2500 miles in 4 days from Texas to Alaska in March and it ran flawlessly except I got a check engine light towards the end of the trip. I pulled the codes with a cheap scanner and I got P0054-00 heated O2 sensor heater resistance bank 1 sensor 2, P0328-22 knock sensor 1 circuit high input bank 1, P026A-00 charge air cooler efficiency, and P 007B-00 charge air cooler temperature sensor circuit range/performance bank 1. At that time, I cleared the codes and never worried about them again until now. The car has started running slightly rough and hesitates on acceleration from a stop a little bit at times now. I just pulled the codes again, and I am getting the same ones as before but no check engine light. I ran a bottle of Seafoam injector cleaner through it a week ago but other than that, I haven't done anything different. Does anyone have any ideas of what to look for? I plan to drive it back to Texas in September. I am an aircraft Mechanic so I have plenty of tools and equipment at my disposal, so I would like to pull it in the airplane hangar and tear into it before I head home. I am thinking about doing a spark plug change at least before heading to Texas but I am willing to dig deep if I have to.
Thanks for any advice,
Travis B
Fort Worth, Texas
2014 F-Type S Convertible
Color: Firesand

 

One clue is the P0054-00 bank1 (right side) sensor 2 (in the cat) or the cat itself may be failing:

You could swap the bank 1 sensor with bank 2 and see if the code changes. Then just replace the bad O2 sensor and see if the other codes disappear. If not then check the wiring to the knock sensor and charge cooler sensor to see if there are any disconnects.

If it was an injector you would likely smell gas or get some weird smoke from the exhaust with a specific misfire code.

Recording real-time fuel trims using your OBD2 scanner is helpful too.

Good luck - Can you report back on your findings?

 

Just a quick comment about OBD P-codes - Some power train codes that directly impact emissions (especially I/M readiness) will produce a check engine light. The Engine management system is designed to record these codes two ways - Active and Permanent. When you delete the codes with a scan tool, you delete the active codes but the mirror permanent codes stay. They will be deleted by the ECU when two conditions are met -
The actual problem that caused the CEL is fixed
and
A certain criteria is completed that could include combinations of mileage and/or ignition starts.
Then the ECU will delete the permanent part.

You cannot delete the permanent part with a scan tool (even a deep scan diagnostics tool). Only the ECU can do this

The fact that the CEL didn't light again (but you saw the codes still there) means the EMS has not seen a repeat of the faults even though you haven't actually repaired anything yet. It doesn't mean the O2 sensors won't reach a performance limit again and, if so, in that case the CEL will reappear and a good scan tool will show both sets of Active and Permanent codes as separate categories.

If that happens, you want to repair the suspect issue (probably replace indicated O2 sensor(s)), then, delete the active codes and do the drive cycles that will allow the ECU to delete the permanent part.

BTW - some really inexpensive scan tools only show the codes, but more sophisticated tools, deep scan tools will ID the codes as active, permanent (and a third category pending - but too much to talk about here).

 

For one thing, stop with the SeaFoam for Christ sakes. Change out the O’2 sensor as that’s a known fault point on these cars. If you don’t have a proven history of the plugs being changed then do those too.

 

Note the ‘14 V6 O2 sensors have a 15-year warranty…
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z4k4i...=3y4n8rxb&dl=0

 

Sometimes this is difficult to collect.
On our F-Pace, and when the entire car was still in warranty, CEL showed the RS 3rd position O2 sensor failing, brought it in to the dealer in Scottsdale at that time. Dealer cleared the code and told me to drive it more (even though the entire world knew there was a chronic problem with O2 sensors on this platform), and suggesting there was some "bad gas" going around Phoenix.

Warranty or not, I went to Rock Auto bought a NON OEM O2 sensor, installed myself (about 30 mins) still running fine today now 5 years later. One year later after the first failed warranty attempt, the LS failed. I went back to RA did the same thing for the LS, never a problem again to this day.

I agreed with the dealer about "bad gas" going around, except the bad gas was at the dealer not Phoenix.

 

But is the engine still running rough sans the CEL?

 

I always start with tune up basics. Plugs, filters, oil change, making sure the mass airflow sensors are clean, etc.

With regard to the O2 sensors, they are heated with an electrical heating element. When that heating element fails, the code is typically what you saw. Easy enough to check the resistance across the heating element. It's prob bad.

You might be able to clean the charge air cooler sensors. By the way, the intercoolers do get quite dirty.

As for injector cleaner, Seafoam is useless. Try Redline SI-1 or Chevron Techron at a double dose. They both contain PEA (the stuff that works to clean our injectors) NOTE: Best to use these products just before an oil change. They products do get into the oil through normal blow by.

Red Line SI-1 is generally considered to have a higher concentration of PEA (polyetheramine) than Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus. While both products utilize PEA for cleaning fuel systems, Red Line is known for its more potent, concentrated formula.

 

Agree with you on Seafoam.

 

BG44K is also better than most of the injector cleaners on the market.

 

I have heard the Seafoam is not the greatest. There is limited availability of good cleaners where I am located and I wanted to run something through it. Shipping isn't really a great option either. It was either that or some off brand stuff. I probably should have just shoved $8.00 up the tailpipe instead. 🤣

 

Are there 2 charge air sensors or just one? I think I see one on the left side rear but not sure about the one on the right. I am thinking of pulling the intercooler and cleaning it up as well as normal tune-up things. Does the S/C have to come off to do the temp sensors?

Thanks for all the advice!!!

 

Yes, the engine has a slight roughness to it. It may not be noticeable to someone not familiar with the car, but I can tell it is there.

 

The Fs, and most cars built in the last 10 years have Direct Injection ( check the post I made with the DI video from FCP Euro) From what I have learned on this forum, the standard injection cleaners don't get the carbon that may have built up.

Here's a thread on doing that cleaning:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-clean-258613/

 

Hi @Valerie Stabenow ,

You are absolutely correct. On direct injection engines, any "additive" in the gasoline only passes through the fuel injectors and cannot come close to the intake valves or the intake ports which, for this purpose, might as well be on the moon.

The fuel injector cleaners can and will make a difference on the fuel injectors themselves. Fuel injectors can suffer especially if the owner is notorious for using non top tier fuels. If the owner is meticulous (I'm religious) about it and only uses a good brand name top tier fuel, these injector cleaners (e.g.: Chevron with Techron already in the fuel) can and will keep injectors clean, which is half the battle.

Still, carbon buildup will occur in the intake ports on a direct injection engine.

I am glad, I have one of the very few modern engines (non-Jaguar) still using port injection.

 

Where is the knock sensor located? I looked around and only found the VOLVO brand turbocharged boost sensor on the left rear wall.

Where are the charge cooler sensors? These are different from the MAF intake sensors near the filter box?

 

Here in this part of Curd- land( Wisconsin), we have a chain of gas stations that offer 91 no ethanol. My OCD kicks in on maintenance issues, and so all engines of any sort get this gas, the mowers, small engine / weed whacker, the old wood boat, the E and the F. I run the Redline through them on a regular basis. I had the dealer do the upper engine clean on the F at about 35,000 miles. Fix what needs to be fixed and run good gas, if you can.

 

Knock sensors are the blue arrows

 

So jealous. I was trying to do the same, but shortly after I bought my car ethanol free gas stopped being available in my area.

 

@Dionysus thanks for the pic. Since there are 4 codes that point to Bank 1 (O2 sensor, knock sensor, charge air sensor) there may be an issue with the wiring harness/plug leading from Bank 1 to the ECU. Perhaps a coolant leak got into the plug somewhere in the rear of the engine. @TravisBekk Can you Black Light that area in total darkness to see if there is any coolant leaks?