Wow! Surprised no codes were thrown. Belt is not super hard to replace but is a PITA do do. There are several threads on the forum how to do it. From the top and bottom. If from the top the intake plumbing needs to be removed. If from the bottom the car needs to be put on safety stands and a gazillion screws need to be removed to take off the belly trays. In either case you need to be able to pull the belt tensioner toward the center of the engine to install. I prefer from the bottom because I have Quick jacks. Without them its probably easier from the top. I'm sure others will chime in.
The following thread has the procedure from the bottom as part of the crank pulley install:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...pulley-179588/

 

Wow, great job gents (and ladies if you are participating). This worked better than a Zoom meeting!

 

Simple fix - new belt and you're good to go!

 

Thanks again everyone for helping me get to the root of the problem here. In poking around the forum, I'm seeing a lot of people recommend some other routine/preventative maintenance items. Would doing any of these make sense while I'm in there to save on time/labor costs and get ahead of any issues that might come up in the next 50k miles?
-VelocityAP ECU tuning and/or Lower or Upper Pulley
-"Y" coolant pipe
-Engine coolant overflow hose
-new coolant
-Spark plugs
-serpentine belt
-Fuel Injectors
-anything else???

I'm at 50k miles and also want to change diff fluid and transmission fluid. Engine air filters were just changed. I'm also due for an oil change soon. I'd rather get all of this (or whatever makes sense to do now) done in a short span and time and then be set for awhile.

I bought the car with 42k miles on it and I think it only had oil changes based on the Carfax. No maintenance records came with the car.

Thanks for you ideas and help!

Peter

 

Looks to me you already have the latest coolant pipes. But if I'm wrong someone will correct me.

If you do the belt from the bottom it would be a perfect time to add the crank pulley and tune. I think the consensus is the upper pulley is not really worth it. But others may have a different opinion.

The other stuff except possibly a coolant flush I wouldn't bother with yet.

The brake fluid should probably be flushed. One correct fluid is Pentosin DOT 4LV.

 

Thanks, RGPV6S.

I did the brake fluid before a recent track day with Motul RBF660. While the car performed beautifully, it was very sluggish on the straights. Now we know why! Do you want to know what a naturally aspirated F-Type feels like on the track, I'm the guy to ask!

Thanks again for your help. I'm looking forward to getting this sorted soon.

Peter

 

Peter, I would change the supercharge oil while your at it , age of car etc very easy to do on the v6 models

 

I would not put the engine cover back on. The engine runs cooler with it off. Someone on the forum actually checked temperatures with the cover on and off. It ran cooler with the cover off.

 

From your list, I'd suggest:
- Spark Plugs (There are 2 different maintenance schedules around on the F-Type. One says 3 yrs or 48k miles, the other is 2x that.)
and add:
- Rear Diff Fluid (Not on the official maintenance schedule, but many on the forum are doing it anyway. Cheap <$100.)
- Supercharger Belt (Obviously) The belt was $114 when I did mine last Dec.

I personally, don't think the Velocity tuning adds enough to the V6S to be worth doing, but it's a matter of choice. I'd be more inclined on a base model or V8.

My basic nature would agree with doing the coolant, but officially you're good for 10yrs/160k miles.

If you were doing some major work and had to remove the supercharger, I'd do the coolant pipe while in there, but it's mostly a labor job and you won't be that deep into things on just the belt. I had the good fortune of having one go bad under warranty on the newer Jag, but the MY14 is original and no problem.

 

Wow. I can't imagine that not throwing codes, but it certainly explains the lack of motivation under power.

I'd agree with replacing the plugs and changing the diff oil. Transmission oil? Can't help you there. Mine's a bit different. I would expect that at 50K it's probably still OK. The other belt? Yeah, given what happened to the S/C belt I'd be looking at it too. I don't recall hearing of another S/C belt going like this, so be sure to check for cause. Maybe a bad idler pulley?

 

VAP Lower Pulley and Tune.....you will NOT be disappointed! With other servicing to be performed you are good to go another 40K plus "smiles"!
Follow the advice on this forum by those that we trust and VERY GOOD things happen.

Spark

 

Glad to see that the problem has been identified, it least I was half right with my early WAG (lack of boost) but completely wrong on the reason!
About the VAP tune, I agree that the tune by itself (380 hp to 416 hp) doesn't do a helluva lot as almost all of the increase is up top, although I guess that would help a bit on the track.
However the larger lower/crank pulley plus tune (380 hp to 450 hp) really does make a big difference as most of that is due to a major increase in torque and in turn much of that increase is "below the curve" so throttle response and driveability are greatly improved.

 

Very curious if you put the new belt on and it you are now happy with the performance?

 

RobMar,

I just found the bad belt yesterday (Easter), so it will take a few days to get the belt, install it, etc. I will report back here when all is done, and I'm looking forward to more horsepower!
Thanks,
Peter

 

Hi, again, and thanks to all for your help. If I'm keeping things stock and just want to replace the belt, is this the correct part?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...itech-c2d39175

It seems correct, but always good to run this by you all.

Thanks,
Peter

 

Yep that's the correct belt.
The same belt is used OEM on all JLR V6 and V8 petrol engines since 2009 so don't be confused by 3.0 vs 5.0 and XF, XJ, XK etc.

 

Did you find out why your SC belt shredded when you replaced it? How is the performance now?

 

Thanks for checking back in. The car is at the shop currently.

The tech is a former Jag dealer tech that now works at an independent European car service center.
Notes from the tech:
"verified complaint. belt is shredded and wrapped into or around other components. supercharger seems to be fine, pulley rotates without binding. also i don't know if its related but the brake vacuum pump is leaking oil, you can see some dirt and belt debris stuck to the oil that has leaked.
my recommendation to move forward would be to, remove all pulleys, tensioners and acc belt. clean debris and inspect. along
with supercharger belt i would replace s/c belt tensioner, lower s/c idler pulley, serpentine belt and lower idler pulley. recommend
replacing brake vacuum pump and clean and degrease."

Here's a link to the estimate which includes pictures.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1toY...ew?usp=sharing

I should be getting it back either today or on Monday, just in time for a track event at Watkins Glen on Wednesday/Thursday. Will post more once I have the car again.

Thanks again for checking back in!
Peter

 

We just had a CTS-V in the shop. We TOLD him at the last service the SC belt was done but he chose to drive it anyway.
When it popped it took out the other belts and wrapped themselves around the crank shaft behind the harmonic balancer and damaged the front main seal.
He got new seal, new tensioners, new water pump, new belts.
We got new flywheel lockout tool and stretch belt tool.

 

The vacuum pump is a known oil leak and it just takes an O-ring. DO NOT replace the vacuum pump! It's expensive and not your problem.
Good that nothing was found but we need to back up a bit because SC belts just don't shred and fly off as a general rule?
My old 2005 S-Type R had a locked idler pulley on the SC belt setup. Broke and shredded the belt identical to what your pictures show. Glad to see your changing the idler pulley anyway.

Also no if you remove the SC belt the car will throw no codes and will drive fine as the OP noted. It just will be a dog.
I think you will be VERY happy when you do get the car working as it should!
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